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Summary

Boulders of the Wainora valley.

Description

Andesite blocks dispersed about the Wainora valley.

Access issues

Careful exploring the true right of the river as the fenced-off area literally contains undetonated shells.

Approach

Park at the Wainora campsite (signposted and the 4th campsite on the left), about 7km up the road from the Visitor Centre. There is space for a couple of cars in front of the campground and a bigger area for parking at the back of the campground.

Where to stay

Wainora campsite offers plenty of space, great views of surrounding peaks and toilet facilities:

https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/coromandel/places/coromandel-forest-park/things-to-do/campsites/wainora-campsite/

Ethic inherited from Kauaeranga Valley

Gradingwise, The Kauaeranga Valley follows standard ewbank and strict V grading based on ARG and Port Hills standards, roughly:

VB = absolute beginner level bouldering VE = <16 V0 = 16,17 V1 = 18,19,20 V2 = 21,22 V3 = 23,24 And then: V grade = Ewbank - 21.

Please follow NZAC guidelines. Minimise ecological impact at all times. Additionally, the Department of Conservation has given the permission to boulder on the andesite boulders of the valley IF:

  • there is no modification of the boulders
  • ecology is respected at all times
  • bio-assets are respected at all times
  • brushing is minimised to those holds which are used or could be used (ie touched) to ensure progression and the climbers safety
  • the climber is considered as part of the environment and preserved

Enquire at the DOC Valley Visitor Centre if at all unsure of the application of the NZAC guidelines.

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
The Casket boulder
1
0
2m
1
The Big Block boulder
-
0
0
1
-
0
0

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