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Access issues inherited from Maratoto

Owned by DOC and haven't had any problems so far, but don't give them a reason to restrict the area. Please take all rubbish and anything you take with you; only leave your footprints behind.

Approach

Turn left from the top of the track.

Ethic inherited from Maratoto

Can stay up at the top of the mountain but only sleeps about 2 or 3 people max. It is quite exposed and small, so tents won't fit. Take all rubbish with you. Check local fire bans in the area before starting a fire.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Around the Left from the Bivvy cave, follow the thin path alongside the rock that will take you up to the belay ledge. Slightly awkward offwidth start leads to fantastic climbing. Looking through the offwidth you can see the bivvy cave and stipaccio.

FA: Dean Maxwell

After clipping the 8th bolt of 400Ft, traverse left 3m and then up another 10m past 3 more rusty old bolts to another set of anchors. Set up a trad anchor (if you don't trust the bolts) and climb right out onto the impressive prow and up 10m to the top of the wall. Midsized cams and nuts. Gets stars for the exposure, setting and full height excitement, not for the faint hearted. Currently no anchors on the top pitch, downclimbing back to the anchors is the go. Top pitch FFA Zane Bray

FA: Zane Bray, 26 Apr 2021

A route with some contentious creation questions. Is considerably harder now that one of the key crimps by the start has broken and the bolted on starting foothold has been removed.

FA: John Van Der Werf

Just right of "Blue" inside the cave. Start up between the columns and then move onto the face for some nice juggy climbing.

FA: Chris Hailey, 5 Oct 2019

An intimidating looking line on the right of the bivvy cave. up to ramp and opposite stipacios/blue. Start up some easy ground on the slab then clip the second bolt in the roof before its game on. Bouldery traverse on pockets and small edges. Rebolted in Feb 2020 due to rusty bolts to tray and revitalise the route and get an ascent on it.

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