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The Twister Buttress

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Access issues inherited from Maratoto

Owned by DOC and haven't had any problems so far, but don't give them a reason to restrict the area. Please take all rubbish and anything you take with you; only leave your footprints behind.

Approach

Turn left from the top of the track.

Ethic inherited from Maratoto

Can stay up at the top of the mountain but only sleeps about 2 or 3 people max. It is quite exposed and small, so tents won't fit. Take all rubbish with you. Check local fire bans in the area before starting a fire.

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Routes

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unknown route origin, stainless bolts and hangers lead to chain anchor. rock quality is some of the worst you could climb on.

unknown origin, start on the face then veer right around the arete. stainless hangers and bolts lead to a chain anchor. some of the worst quality rock you could climb on.

Unknown origin (possibly mixed trad) Starts at the bottom of the twister buttress. There is a crumbly start with a round pocket on the face. 2 bolts (stainless hangers and galv bolts) after this the bolts seem to disappear before an anchor at about 15m height. The route then continues or bypasses the anchor on the left all the way to the top on stainless bolts and hangers. climb this at your own risk as the rock quality in this area is extremely fragile and crumbly

Climb the groove to below the overhang. Move slightly left to surmount the crux overhang to bigger and bigger holds. Slabby finish with an exciting ending. Rock quality is not good as the rest of the crag but still a fun climb

The second pitch at the hanging belay in the middle of this wall. Climb to the right underneath the overhang to the crux above the second bolt and then cruise cruise to the top of the honeycomb head wall. Descent is best in two abseils

Climb the groove and keep on going through the widening crack and chimney to reach the steep headwall and chain. Long and airy with a good balance of moves. DBC Belay

Around the Left from the Bivvy cave, follow the thin path alongside the rock that will take you up to the belay ledge. Slightly awkward offwidth start leads to fantastic climbing. Looking through the offwidth you can see the bivvy cave and stipaccio.

FA: Dean Maxwell

The overhanging face leads to easier climbing after the bottom boulder. Anchors still need glued in, stay off till then.

Set: Chris Hailey, 5 Nov

FA: Chris Hailey, 13 Nov

After clipping the 8th bolt of 400Ft, traverse left 3m and then up another 10m past 3 more rusty old bolts to another set of anchors. Set up a trad anchor (if you don't trust the bolts) and climb right out onto the impressive prow and up 10m to the top of the wall. Midsized cams and nuts. Gets stars for the exposure, setting and full height excitement, not for the faint hearted. Currently no anchors on the top pitch, downclimbing back to the anchors is the go. Top pitch FFA Zane Bray

FA: Zane Bray, 26 Apr 2021

A route with some contentious creation questions. Is considerably harder now that one of the key crimps by the start has broken and the bolted on starting foothold has been removed.

FA: John Van Der Werf

Just right of "Blue" inside the cave. Start up between the columns and then move onto the face for some nice juggy climbing.

FA: Chris Hailey, 5 Oct 2019

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