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11
AU

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
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D

Description

30-35m high basalt with potential for technical style and steep routes

Access issues inherited from Maratoto

Owned by DOC and haven't had any problems so far, but don't give them a reason to restrict the area. Please take all rubbish and anything you take with you; only leave your footprints behind.

Approach

park just before the silver gate, cross the bridge then after 50m take a left past a bunch of rotting bones and animal carcasses. Cross the river, follow the track up to the ridge line then when you get to the rock head left towards the second tier or right towards the top of Maratoto.

Ethic inherited from Maratoto

Can stay up at the top of the mountain but only sleeps about 2 or 3 people max. It is quite exposed and small, so tents won't fit. Take all rubbish with you. Check local fire bans in the area before starting a fire.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Cleaned by Kyle, Climb the arete through some steep terrain left of the old aid route

Start at the rusty bolts on the face, climb through 3 bolts to a ledge then balance your way up to the roof, take a rest on the ledge and then attack the final crux through the steep lip. No anchors yet, plans to instal them on the next trip, until then there are 2 clips to lower from.

FA: Chris Hailey, 4 Jul

Thats right, 80 bolts!

FA: Dean Maxwell

To the Left of the plaque, climb the arete through the steep overhang

Closed Project - Climb the line left of equanimity through 3 distinct horns. Climbing to the roof is around 22/23 then a bouldery finish yet to be climbed

Climb the face on good crimps and side pulls, balance your way through the middle section and top out just under the roof. Still needs anchors added.

FA: Chris Hailey, 4 Jul

Climb the land before crime, at the roof head left to the alternative anchors through a bouldery move

Climb over several bulges before attacking the roof, the headwall is where the most technical moves are on good crimps. Extend the roof quick draw and the one below it if you don't want rope drag. This route is climbable but still needs an anchor installed which I will do in the coming weeks. currently there are a couple of clips at the top to rap from.

FA: Chris Hailey, 19 Jun

To the Right of the land before crime, climb the black tower, technical moves and mantels lead to a no hands rest then attack the bulges to the top.

cleaned by Alex, ready for bolts on the next mission

Far right of the crag, head through a few steep moves, up the face and the crux will be the final slab mantle. needs cleaned, anchors and ascent before its open.

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Activity

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