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Upper Tier

15

Seasonality

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F
M
A
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Description

30-35m high basalt with potential for technical style and steep routes

Access issues inherited from Maratoto

Owned by DOC and haven't had any problems so far, but don't give them a reason to restrict the area. Please take all rubbish and anything you take with you; only leave your footprints behind.

Approach

park just before the silver gate, cross the bridge then after 50m take a left past a bunch of rotting bones and animal carcasses. Cross the river, follow the track up to the ridge line then when you get to the rock head left towards the second tier or right towards the top of Maratoto.

Ethic inherited from Maratoto

Can stay up at the top of the mountain but only sleeps about 2 or 3 people max. It is quite exposed and small, so tents won't fit. Take all rubbish with you. Check local fire bans in the area before starting a fire.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb the face

Head up through vertical into steep climbing on a variety of jugs, pinches, crimps and pockets to 2/3 height then crimp your way to glory.

Set: Chris Hailey, Nov 2021

FA: Chris Hailey, 29 Jan 2022

Start at the rusty bolts on the face, climb through 3 bolts to a ledge then balance your way up to the roof, take a rest on the ledge and then attack the final crux through the steep lip. No anchors yet, plans to instal them on the next trip, until then there are 2 clips to lower from.

Set: Chris Hailey, May 2021

FA: Chris Hailey, 4 Jul 2021

Thats right, 80 bolts!

FA: Dean Maxwell

Just to the left of Johns Plaque, head up the left side of the bolts through overhanging jugs, once past the overhang veer right. *Anchors to be added.

Set: Chris Hailey, Nov 2021

FA: Chris Hailey, 29 Jan 2022

Climb the line left of equanimity through 3 distinct horns. Climbing to the roof is around 22/23 then a bouldery finish through the final horn. This one is long and through steep sections so extend draws that are after the steep sections to eliminate rope drag or prepare for a bicep workout.

Set: Chris Hailey, Jan 2022

FA: Chris Hailey, 14 May 2022

Climb the face on good crimps and side pulls, balance your way through the middle section and top out just under the roof. Still needs anchors added.

FA: Chris Hailey, 4 Jul 2021

Climb the land before crime, at the roof head left to the alternative anchors through a bouldery move

Climb over several bulges before attacking the roof, the headwall is where the most technical moves are on good crimps. Extend the roof quick draw and the one below it if you don't want rope drag. This route is climbable but still needs an anchor installed which I will do in the coming weeks. currently there are a couple of clips at the top to rap from.

FA: Chris Hailey, 19 Jun 2021

To the Right of the land before crime, climb the black tower, technical moves and mantels lead to a no hands rest then attack the bulges to the top.

Climb the the corner (still needs Anchors)

Set: Chris Hailey, May 2022

FA: Chris Hailey, 21 May 2022

Climb the scooped out corner then head through the bouldery moves in the overhang.

Set: Chris Hailey, Jun 2022

FA: Chris Hailey, 1 Jul

Climb the steepness on small holds through funky moves, keep to the left over hang then we've through the top section with some air between the bolts to a double ring bolt anchor

Set: Chris Hailey, May 2022

FA: Chris Hailey, 4 Jun 2022

Bridge out then onto the short face, odd climbing but fun.

Set: Chris Hailey, Apr 2022

FA: Chris Hailey, 14 May 2022

Head up an overhanging boulder problem into crimps on the face then either take the right hand side of the slab up the slopey arete. *Still needs Anchors.

Set: Chris Hailey, Nov 2021

FA: Chris Hailey, 29 Jan 2022

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