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Summary

Previously a purely trad crag, on the first weekend of May 2019 a team from the nearby Edmund Hillary School of Outdoor Education bolted most, if not all, of the routes on this crag.

Description

The west side of the crag has good quality volcanic rock, with 8 climbs - more if you count the multi pitch, ranging in grade from about 15 to low 20s (Ewbank). Climbs range in height from about 14 metres to about 20 metres. As of December 2019 no information could be found about grades or names so a team of us climbed them all and discussed the grades. All grades and names are temporary until someone comes up with some better information, please feel free to adjust the grades if they do not match up. Climbs have been named and graded from left to right. This side gets the afternoon sun. Wet moss growing on all the narrow ledges, and in all the cracks where you are hoping to get good finger grips, is the norm at this crag. Get used to it! In spite of this, the climbing is good. The east side is longer, is in the sun in the morning and currently has 11 recorded routes. The rock is similar to the west side with the routes being generally more sustained.

Access issues

Covered in snow during winter.

Approach

Drive to the top carpark at the end of the Bruce Road to the Whakapapa Ski field. You should be able to see the wall from the carpark by looking towards the top of the "Happy Valley". Walk towards the Sky Waka (Gondola), where you will see a sign which says "Meads Wall Walk. Walk underneath the Sky Waka Station, veering left until you see a wide rocky track. The Mead's Wall is about two hundred metres ahead.

Where to stay

Whakapapa Holiday Park

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

The face you see when you are approaching the wall

a varied route, slightly steep at the start. belay is DBB

Nice route through some steep terrain then easier climbing the higher you get, anchors are just two hangers with no rings.

A sick route, start on the left of the slab, go up and slightly right, then exit through the awesome fist sized roof crack. DBB under a weird boulder.

FA: Fynn Marno-Simpson

Enough variety to make this an interesting climb. Climb the arete then move onto the face, route is just right of some cool looking slabs into roof terrain that has not been bolted yet...

start right of the main buttress, then traverse left and get established on the buttress (crux) then follow the finger crack up to the DBB with hangers.

FA: Fynn Marno-Simpson

Climb into the corner with the oddly placed bolts, best to use extendable draws or incur the wrath of the rope drag. Nice climbing over the bulges to DBB

Climb directly up, moves slightly to the right near the 7th bolt. Supposingly, the second bolt is missing, total should be 10 bolts.

The hardest route on meads wall, good holds through the slightly steep terrain then stops mid wall. belay is a clip with a ring bolt next to it.

Nice climbing to a DBB in the middle of the route, continue up past this one and climb some corners with nice moves.

A nice route on the far right end of the crag, climb the face through some good moves to a clip anchor

The East side of Meads Wall gets morning sun, is significantly longer than the West side and has a number of good routes.

FA: Gregg Beisly, May 2019

FA: Toby Beisly, Jan 2020

Long pitch that rises to the top of the crag in several waves of steeper terrain. Best to extend draws under bulges to reduce rope drag.

FA: Gregg Beisly, Jan 2020

FA: Paul Rodgers, 1999

FA: Kester Brown

FA: Paul Rodgers, 1999

FA: Sean Cambell

FA: Gregg Beisly, Jan 2020

FA: Layton Hockey, Jan 2020

FA: Gregg Beisly, May 2020

FA: Gregg Beisly, Feb 2020

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