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Routes in Tongariro National Park for selected grade

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Showing all 57 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Mangatepopo Valley Tuwharetoa Lower Tier
16 Glubetroil
Trad 40m
16 Vegetated Crack
Trad 35m
16 Thin Crack
Trad 15m
16 Karitane Smiles
Trad 15m
16 Complan
Trad 15m
16 Up An At 'Em
Trad 16m
16 Arnold Lane

FA: Rick McGregor & Bryce Martin, 1975

Trad 15m
16 Terrible Time
Trad 40m
16 Vee Groove
Trad 40m
16 Vee Grovel And Groovey
Trad 55m
16 Grantchester Meadows
Trad 40m
Mangatepopo Valley Tuwharetoa Upper Tier
16 Judge's Diagonal
Unknown 40m
16 Um
Unknown 20m
16 Ladybird Walk

FA: Ray Button; Ray Button/Keith Lawry

Unknown 20m
Mangatepopo Valley Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes
16 Bomb Arete

The obvious long arete visible from the Tongariro Crossing track. Start at the toe of the arete.

  1. 30m (14): Straight up the arete following hand and fist cracks until you reach a bulge, then make a delicate move left. Continue up to good belay ledge.

  2. 20m (16): Up and slightly left into a shallow corner split by a finger crack. Pull straight up through the middle of this then up through slabby ground to a belay.

  3. 60m (10): Up through very broken and sometimes loose terrain, tending left around a large block, then rightwards to finish up the gully at a full 60m rope length. Continue to scramble up and eastwards (toward the head of the Mangatepopo valley) to find the steep grassy gully you can scramble down (it's not the first gully). Be careful not to get bluffed.

FA: Graeme Dingle, 1972

Trad 110m, 3
Mangatepopo Valley Bomb Bay Cliff Upper Routes
16 The Bomb
Trad 30m
Mangatepopo Valley Misty Mountain Buttress
16 Easy Day For A Hobbit

FA: Graeme Dingle & Ray Button

Trad 50m
Mangatepopo Valley Middle Earth Crag
16 Unclimbed Crack
Trad
Mangatepopo Valley Hotu Cliffs East Wing
16 The Tumbler
Trad 10m
Mangatepopo Valley Te Arawa Cliffs Te Arawa Left
16 Guts
Trad
16 Jam Butties
Trad
16 Debbie's Dilemma Direct
Trad
Mangatepopo Valley Te Arawa Cliffs Te Arawa Right
16 Wild Colonial Boy

FA: Ray Button

Trad
16 Wall Of Shadows
Trad
16 Doug and Ding's Climb
Trad
Mt Ruapehu Whakapapa Gorge
16 Off The Edge

Climbs through the center of the triangular buttress, starting from the large ledge.

FA: Tim Robertson & Mark Morrison

Trad 20m
16 Authorised Rockers

Start left of Chocolate Coated Mammaries in an alcove right of Trenchtown. Head up through the overhang, initially trending left and then right as you tackle the headwall.

Trad 35m
16 Blue Rinse

Climb left of The Scribbler and follow the two bolts up the wall.

FA: Tom Wilson, 2006

Mixed trad 18m, 2
16 Dissident

Starting just left of the practice anchor bolts, move up the steep wall for a brief rest on the slab. Like a good movie, the climax/crux is at the very end; try not to use your belly or knees, instead use style and grace. 5 bolts, DRB anchor.

FA: Sash Nukada, Nov 2022

Sport 5
Mt Ruapehu Whakapapa Gorge Halfmoon Crag
16 Marama

Moon in Te Reo Maori. Up the vertical section of the wall, with some good holds and moves. A grade easier if you bail left on the top half. 5 bolts, DRB anchor.

FA: Prajot Sabnis, Nov 2021

Sport 5
Mt Ruapehu Mead's Wall
16 Nein Moss

Enough variety to make this an interesting climb. Climb the arete then move onto the face, route is just right of some cool looking slabs into roof terrain that has not been bolted yet...

Sport 19m, 6
16/17 Corners In The Moss

Climb into the corner with the oddly placed bolts, best to use extendable draws or incur the wrath of the rope drag. Nice climbing over the bulges to DBB

Sport 21m, 7
16 Unknown Name

Climb directly up, moves slightly to the right near the 7th bolt. Supposingly, the second bolt is missing, total should be 10 bolts.

Sport 25m, 9
16 Not Quite Dolly

FA: Ryan Leong, 24 Nov 2021

Sport 30m
Mt Ruapehu Ruapehu Crag
16 Acid Drop

Climb the corner. Protection is there but tricky to place.

Trad 20m
V0 Ricky Retty

Large leaning slab boulder beneath Kaiserin’s Inspiration. Slab route on the right hand arete.

FA: James Smith, 23 Oct 2021

Boulder
Mt Ruapehu Tukino Child’s Play
16 Edges 'n' Ledges

Starts with a small boulder problem off the deck. Once at the small ledge with the bush, continue upwards to the #2/#3 cam-sized crack. Belay on the small ledge.

FA: Aidan Sarginson, 27 Jun 2023

Trad 15m
16 Meissa

The corner right of Betelgeuse. Shared anchor.

FA: Wim Coosemans

Trad 13m
Mt Ruapehu Tukino Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress
16 Right On

Awkward first moves lead to an easy ledge and finish by continuing right at the top. Walk off from there.

FFA: David Garrity & Bryce Martin, 20 Mar 2017

Trad 16m
16 First We Take Manhatten

Start climbing the staunch crack, then the easier cracks to the right leading up onto the pinnacle. Don't exit right up the easy ground.

FFA: David Garrity & Bryce Martin, 21 Mar 2017

Trad 8m
16 Blue Telescope

12m right of True Love Leaves No Traces

FFA: Bryce Martin, David Garrity, Ellen Garrity & Rory Weston, 30 Dec 2016

Sport 20m, 6
16 Keep Off The Grass

5m right of Osteoarthritis. Then climb from the right side of the pedestal at the bottom. Follow corners and ledges past two bushes (and some smaller plants) to the top.

FFA: Philip Garrity, David Garrity & Bryce Martin, 1 Feb 2016

Trad 20m
Mt Ruapehu Tukino French Buttress
16 French Kisses

From the start of the second pitch of Croissant veer right to a large square rock revealing a crack in the left side. Shares Croissant's anchors. Good range of black diamond cams "0.5" up to "5"

FA: Josh aronsen & Cat MacClure, 18 Apr

Trad 25m
Mt Ruapehu Tukino Tascmaster Wall
16 Climb on John

Groove approx 6m right of 'Fast'

FFA: Bryce Martin, Jan 2015

Trad 25m
16 Old Mans Climb

Groove to left of 'Slow'

FFA: Bryce Martin, Jan 2015

Trad 25m
16 Stayin Alive

FFA: David Garrity, Bryce Martin, Cliff Ellery & Shiva ?, Dec 2015

Mixed trad 25m, 2
16 My Father's Friends Trad 25m
16 An Alpine Adventure Trad 25m
Mt Ruapehu Tukino Mangatoetoenui Gorge Rehab Wall
16 Walking the Drill

Left hand crack, trending right. Trad belay.

FA: Cliff Ellery & Richard Knott, 6 Jan 2016

Trad 20m
16 Low Ball Excursion

Follows the arch traversing right to rap anchor under overhangs. Small to medium gear, lots of slings.

FA: Richard Knott & Cliff Ellery, 6 Jan 2016

Trad 40m
16 Going Straight

Crack right of The Strassburg Effect, go straight up when crack veers left to join TSE crack to up and over a fun overhang left of the vegetated ledge.

FA: David Garrity, Aimee Hutchinson & Ellen Garrity, 6 Jan 2016

Trad 25m
16 Sweet Sixteen

Tricky start, climb up to rap anchor using trad gear in addition to the bolts.

FA: Bryce Martin & David Garrity, 5 Jan 2016

Mixed trad 20m, 4
Mt Ruapehu Tukino Mangatoetoenui Gorge On Sight Wall
16 Purple Rain

Right of two cracks, left round overhang up groves to trad anchor spot.

FA: David Garrity & Richard Knott, 6 Mar 2016

Trad 15m
Mt Ruapehu Tukino Mangatoetoenui Gorge White Dragon Wall
16 Blue Eyes White Dragon

Well protected climbing to the right of White Gentian up a series of bulges.

FA: Richard Thomson & Salena Davie, 2002

Trad 20m
16 Tooth Decay

Left of Deception with a double bolt anchor for descent.

FA: Richard Knott & David Garrity, 5 Mar 2016

Sport 25m, 7
Mt Ruapehu Tukino Tukino Boulder Field Thundercling Boulder
V0 Single Scoop

Start on the jug in the middle of the slab then head right to top out

FA: Samuel Blok, 29 Jan 2022

Boulder
Mt Ruapehu Tukino Tukino Boulder Field Mordor and Back Boulder
V0 Stay home Sam

Start on the obvious flake, head to the right to top out.

FA: Samuel Blok, 31 Dec 2021

Boulder

Showing all 57 routes.

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