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Rock: Loose rock above Wolverine to Three Steps to Heaven

There is a significant amount of loose rock sitting on top of the cliff from a recent natural rock fall at a higher cliff. Strongly advise to not do the climbs between these until someone has taken all of the loose rock down.

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Created 11 weeks ago
24

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Description

This area was closed for almost ten years. Now mostly re-established & cleaned again. Great crag, especially if you are looking for a high concentration of quality hard routes around the mid twenties grades. A fantastic Winter crag once in the Sun from late morning. The routes have gradually been re-cleaned from left to right. Currently clean to "All Above Board"

Approach

From the car-park continue up the tar sealed road to the top of the hill, then take the first tar sealed road on your right At the next junction go left and immediately cross the road to a vague track, by the old bits of white/ blue painted plywood in the bush edge. Follow the rough track that will take you to the edge of the bank. Follow a steep track down beside an old water pipe.

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Routes

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Grade Route
Closed
1 22 12m
2 26 10m

The second pitch of this route and the top of the first was pushed off by a massive pine root in March 2019. RIP

FA: Andrew Whitmore & Martyn Owen, 2003

1 20 20m
2 22 5m

Pitch 1: Climb the tight corner crack then move right and climb over the large blocks. Continue up the wide crack system then past 2 bolts (crux) and mantle onto belay ledge (DBC belay). Pitch 2: A difficult move off the belay ledge is followed by easier climbing past one bolt to DBC belay.

FA: Cliff Ellery, David Bland & Kevin Barratt, 2003

Start up the shallow corner then onto the face, pull over the small roof at the top to the DBC belay of 'Brass Monkey'. Useful to have 1 or 2 cams (green #0.75 to yellow #2) for the cracks in between 2nd & 3rd bolts.

FA: Kevin Barratt, 2003

5m metres further down the hill is a shallow right facing corner. Move left past the 2nd bolt & third bolts (crux) then climb up the engaging groove and rib to the bulge & corner. Pull through the bulge on side pulls & good holds then back into the groove. Up to flat ledge out left then climb the wall above, move right, then rock onto the sloping ledge to finish.

FA: Martyn Owen, 2003

Originally named in honor of the English Rugby Victory over the All Blacks. Start up Stalemate to the 4th bolt. Pull left into the very shallow groove and follow this with difficulty past 4 bolts up a thin crack before stepping left onto small ledge. Pull back right onto the wall through small bulge and join the finish of Love Handle Expansion at it's 10th bolt. DBC belay of Love Handle Expansion. (First ascensionist had blinkers on and skipped the small ledge which makes it a bit harder)

FA: Martyn Owen, 2003

The obvious rib, rib, shallow groove and corner system in the centre of the wall. Climb up the rib and move right into the shallow groove at the 5th bolt. Solve a thin, difficult crux sequence to reach a sloping ledge. Pull right into the corner section. Continue with thin, sustained climbing up the corner all the way to the top – awesome. Hard to on-sight at Gr27 but feels easier once solved.

FA: Martyn Owen, 2003

Pull onto the ledge then climb the groove and arete above. The climb finishes at a Fixe Lower Off at half height.

FA: Andrew Whitmore & Martyn Owen, 2003

Second pitch of 'Under the Thumb'. From the belay of Under the Thumb move back left and climb the hanging corner. Then move back right onto the belay ledge of Outside Edge.

FA: Martyn Owen, 2003

Starts in the left facing corner. Hard starting moves then climb up the small groove above to the Fixe Lower Off at approximately half height.

FA: Andrew Whitmore, 2003

From the first bolt move left into the corner, then move left onto the obvious arete. Gain the ledge then bridge up the corner above moving left past the roof then up to a rest. Continue up the wall above (crux) & go left of the roof to mantle onto a small ledge (40-60mm CAM for gear) then move back right onto belay ledge, Double Bolt Chain belay.

FA: Cliff Ellery, 2003

Start as for Rolling Stoppages to the third bolt then move left up to the ramp/corner. Hard moves up the corner till you gain the belay ledge of Rolling Stoppages. Climb up to the next slopping ledge, then finish up the hard corner to the Double Fixe Lower off.

FA: Martyn Owen, 2003

Climb the face then move right onto the blunt arete and follow this to the 1/2 way ledge (shared with Industrial Action). Climb up the right hand side of the square arete on poor feet, tiny crimps/pockets & 1 good finger jug to a final dead point for the ledge and finish. (No bridging out right into the corner of “Industrial Action”) Probably hard for the grade. Note the fall going for the first top ledge is safe but best not to fall heading up the easy ground from here.

FA: Martyn Owen, 2002

The corner and arete system just to the right of 'Rolling Stoppages'. Climb the lower crack section then continue up the wall on rounded holds. Once in the base of the obvious corner move right onto the arete. Climb the arete then pull onto the head wall (crux), move right again into the overhanging groove to a DUB belay.

FA:

FA: Andrew Whitmore, Martyn Owen & David Hood, 2002

Start just right of Industrial Action. Climb the small arete, move right at the third bolt to a hidden side pull. Up to a layaway then back left. Continue straight up through the bulges to join Route Rustlers at the foot ledge in the V groove. Finish up this.

FA: Martyn Owen, Aug 2019

A hard start past the first 2 bolts leads into a groove system which is then climbed gingerly up to the first small roof (with inverted V). Move left from here onto a small ledge just below the large roof. Step back to the right of the large roof, crux and the crack and groove out onto the arete above the roof and then move back left to the belay ledge. DRB belay.

FA: Cliff Ellery, 2001

Follow the groove and it's right arete past the first 4 bolts with the crux between the 3rd & 4th bolts. Bridge up the upper grove past 3 more bolts then move right under the overhang to gain the small belay ledge, just under the large roof.

FA: Cliff Ellery, 2002

Climb up the groove to the small roof, then step right and move out over the roof onto the face. A series of techical moves for the next 15m gets you to a small ledge and a decent rest. A further difficult move puts you up to the roof out right. Move back left then left and climb to the double bolt belay.

FA: Cliff Ellery & Richard Knott, 2001

A direct start to "All Above Board". Climb off the board walk up the tricky arete and through the small roof and tricky corner above.

FA: Martyn Owen, 2004

1st Pitch: Climb the corner of Wet Under foot to the third bolt then traverse left past one more bolt left to a belay ledge & double belay 2nd Pitch: Move left into the groove, past the overhang (crux) and continue up the groove to the DUB belay

FA: Andrew Whitmore & Martyn Owen, 2004

A hard start up the corner to easier climbing up a series of ledges. At the fifth bolt move left, across the tricky slab towards the corner. Move back right at the top of the short corner and climb the arete (1st crux) then up the corner to the roof. Move left around the roof and pull up into the groove above (2nd crux). Up this to the DBC belay.

FA: Cliff Ellery & Kevin Barratt, 2003

Start as for Wet Under Foot, move right at the 2nd bolt onto the large ledge then climb up the easy ground out right. Climb the arete for a few meters then pull back left onto the face and move up the steep wall up to the roof. Surmount the roof then up the blank looking wall above

FA: Cliff Ellery, 2004

Belay as for Wet Under Foot, Pull into the corner out right. A hard start is followed by easier climbing, which moves right past a number of small ledges. Continue up the shallow corner, pull left onto the slab below the overlap. Climb over the overlap and up onto the head wall. Climb the wall & get established in the rounded groove above(crux). Bridge up the groove exiting slightly left at the top the DBC belay.

FA: Martyn Owen, Andrew Whitemore & Sam Bird, 2003

To access to the next two climbs either climb or aid up the opening moves of Daylight Robbery and move right at the 4th bolt to a "Fixe" Lower Off. Abseil off this to a ledge just above the lake.

Climb the crack line to the Fixe lower off. [Pro Wire, CD)

Start at the same belay as Petit Theft. Climb up the wall past 3 bolts to the right of Petit Theft. Move left past the last bolt to the Fixe belay. Technical.

FA: Martyn Owen & Andrew Whitmore, 2004

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