Bumbly's Buttress




Mostly very steep overhang starts on good holds to easier faces. Grades from 17 to 26. Routes described L to R

Access issues inherited from Wharepapa Rock

The crag facilities take time and money to maintain. If you climb, you pay, no exceptions.

Recreational climbers do not need to call ahead before visiting but must pay the daily access fee. Payment is cash-only at the crag, or by bank transfer to account 03 1399 0073627 00 - reference: your name and "day pass".

Guided or commercial groups (including school groups) must book in advance by emailing

The crag is on private farmland - please obey a few simple rules:

  • Ensure all gates are left as they were found and are properly latched. If you open a gate, you close it.
  • Do not climb over fences, this can slacken the wires.
  • Climb safely and responsibly.
  • Strictly no dogs.


From the carpark, Bumbly's buttress is the highest sector up to the left. Walk up trail to Lower Tier, turn left and follow trail to Bumblys.



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Grade Route

Short overhang on big holds to lichen covered arete.

FA: Luke Newnham, 1989

Good start to thin face climb. Hard 17.

FA: Margot Harkness, 1989

Warning Flora and Fauna: Wasp nests

Slight overhang start on good holds to thin hard face climb.

FA: Luke Newnham & Margot Harkness, 1989

Climb the arete, bulge, short face to finish on a big ledge.

FA: Luke Newnham & Bryce Martin, 1989

The direct line to 'The Wicker Man'

FA: Luke Newnham, 1990

Shared start with 'Via Dolorosa' then follows left diagonal seam.

Set: Luke Newnham

FA: Tim Goodwin, 1989

Climb up and slightly right. Sustained.

FA: Luke Newnham, 1990

Start right of 'Via Dolorosa' and trend right following diagonal holds. Sustained.

FA: Luke Newnham, Ton Snelder & Bryce Martin, 1989

Climb the overhanging arête. Heel-hooking goodness.

FA: Luke Newnham, 1989

Steep runnel with overhang start on good holds to easy climbing on jugs.

FA: Alex Palman, 1989

Follow the overhanging arete.

FA: Andrew Wilson & Richard Bull, 1993

Difficult moves through the bulge then cruise to the top.

FA: Luke Newnham, 1989

The direct line to 'Bhang Lhassi'

FA: Richard Bull, 1993

Start as for speedy Gonzales but head left up the black streak.

FA: Joe Kippax & Dave Lett, 1989

Start at back of alcove up overhanging short corner. Easier climbing to mantle. Then to the top on small pockets.

FA: Gary Lokin, Grant Pearson & Fraser McRobie, 1988

Climb the wide groove with difficult moves at half height. Up the slab to finish.

FA: Luke Newnham, 1989

Starts right side of alcove up ramp trending to arete above the roof of 'Torquemada' Lovely exposure.

FA: Grant Pearson & Fraser McRobie, 1988

Start as for Torquemada, onto the short face then finish up Rok It To The Moon.

FA: Luke Newnham, 1990

The right hand end of main wall, a low roof with ground dropping away

FA: Luke Newnham, 1990

Up thru overhang then across left to join torquemada or straight up the face doesn't make much difference in grade.

FA: Luke Newnham & Margot Harkness, 1989

Slight overhang start. Awkward move left to get into groove of Small Beginnings, then straight up

FA: Margot Harkness, 1989

Start above big boulder. Then tend left with slab climbing on big pockets. Shares first three bolts with Wally's Womble.

FA: Grant Pearson & Fraser McRobie, 1988

Shares the first three bolts with Always the Sun, then takes the right line of bolts on the slab.

FA: Fraser McRobie & Grant Pearson, 1988

FA: Richard Bull, 1990

FA: Richard Bull, 1990

Climb the slab to the short overhanging face. Balancy.

FA: Luke Newnham, 1990

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