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Description

Fantastic climbing on good holds.

Access issues inherited from Sheridan Hills

For Biosecurity reasons, follow this new procedure for permission to climb at Sheridan. No exceptions, don't blow it for everyone.

Entry is only permitted to Rock Climbing groups, no others.

You must have clean footwear that hasn't been worn anywhere where there have been cattle within the last 24 hours. This includes other local crags.

Abide by all NZ Alpine Club rules (see the sign left of the Seafund Road gate).

EACH TIME you enter the property, send a text message to 027 527 1744 with:

1 - Your full name and place of residence

2 - The number of people in your party

3 - Another form of contact, ie email, home address, etc.

IF NO TEXT IS RECEIVED YOU WILL BE ASKED TO LEAVE.

Sending the text message acknowledges you and your party will abide by all the above rules. There is no longer a logbook to sign. A QR code is available but this DOES NOT replace the requirement to send a txt as above.

Do not block the gate, park well back along the road! Leave gates open or closed as you found them. No dogs. This is private farm land so must be respected.

Any queries, phone 027 527 1744.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Bryce Martin & Anthony Willmott, 1996

FA: Bryce Martin, 1991

FA: Bryce Martin & Dave Garrity, 1991

FA: Dave Garrity & Bryce Martin, 1991

FA: Bryce Martin, 1991

Awesome. Up thru the vertical face and across to big rest next to cave. Power on up steep overhang on good holds.

FA: Bryce Martin & Dave Garrity, 1991

Left trending line, with hard, balancy crux move on steep ground

FA: Bryce Martin & Dave Garrity, 1991

Great climb. Straight up shallow groove and arete, mantle across to ledge, then delicate moves back right and up to a ledge. DBC belay.

FA: Dave Garrity & Bryce Martin, 1991

Great climb on imposing overhanging wall. Quite deep mostly single hand sized pockets. Long runout near top, overcome by slinging chickenhead out left between final bolt and and anchor.

FA: Bryce Martin & Dave Garrity, 1991

Big moves on juggy pockets lead to nice edges and slopers with a heartbreaker finish.

FA: Daniel Krippner, 15 Aug 2015

Straight up steep arete until halfway then onto slab to the top.

FA: Dave Garrity & Bryce Martin, 1991

Warning Flora and Fauna: Wasp hives and bird nest

One of the best here. Graded 19 in the guidebook, but could easily be mistaken for a 21. Up thin face to long overhang on good holds. Pumpy with no moves harder than 19 but it just keeps coming at you.

FA: Bryce Martin, Cliff Ellery & Dean Maxwell, 1991

FA: Ross McGarva & Bryce Martin, 1991

Warning Flora and Fauna: Wasp

Climb the arete to the left of the yellow lichen. Previously equipped with a couple of bolts and hangers then suddenly reverting to naked bolts for the rest of the route (WTF??), now rebolted with lots of hangers all the way by Bryce.

FA: Dave Garrity & Bryce Martin, 1991

Second bolt line from the arete, very featured wall at the base. Follow the bolts on good holds to a bit thinner section near the top then mantle to anchors. Climb the left hand arete at the top to keep to grade 17, or if you feeling it climb the face direct. I believe the 1st ascent went left at the top, using only 2 bolts and trad for the whole climb! DBC.

FA: Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin & Bolke Water, 1991

Warning Flora and Fauna: Wasp hive in nearby pocket

Up thru groove over bulge and crack to get to anchors awkwardly on facing wall.

FA: Bryce Martin, John Jamieson & Bev Birnie, 1991

Right of Hannah Louise, climb to the left of the cave to the roof, then negotiate your way out right (crux) and up to the anchor. Graded 22 in the current Rock Deluxe, but maybe take that with a grain of salt given some of the other inaccuracies in that publication.

FA: Bryce Martin & Cliff Ellery, 1997

Wide groove facing left along the wall. Follow bolts up to the lip and the anchor. DBC.

FA: Bryce Martin & Dave Garrity, 1991

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