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Description

First crag on arrival. 20m with mostly easier climbs and a couple of good 20s. Two new climbs on north end both about grade 16.

Access issues inherited from Sheridan Hills

For Biosecurity reasons, follow this new procedure for permission to climb at Sheridan. No exceptions, don't blow it for everyone.

Entry is only permitted to Rock Climbing groups, no others.

You must have clean footwear that hasn't been worn anywhere where there have been cattle within the last 24 hours. This includes other local crags.

Abide by all NZ Alpine Club rules (see the sign left of the Seafund Road gate).

EACH TIME you enter the property, send a text message to 027 527 1744 with:

1 - Your full name and place of residence

2 - The number of people in your party

3 - Another form of contact, ie email, home address, etc.

IF NO TEXT IS RECEIVED YOU WILL BE ASKED TO LEAVE.

Sending the text message acknowledges you and your party will abide by all the above rules. There is no longer a logbook to sign. A QR code is available but this DOES NOT replace the requirement to send a txt as above.

Do not block the gate, park well back along the road! Leave gates open or closed as you found them. No dogs. This is private farm land so must be respected.

Any queries, phone 027 527 1744.

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts in a wide groove on the west side of the Flying Cow Buttress. Follow the bolt line up the groove, trending slightly left above the bulge. DBC belay.

FA: Bryce Martin

Left of Fire and Ice. Start up a grove and through an over lap to where the harder climbing starts. Balancey moves up a rounded arête. Take care not to z clip! Enjoy! Double bolt, chain and Maillon Rapide Anchor

FA: Stephen Shaw, 9 Oct 2019

Left of Quacky Duck, up past the narrow arete then through an interesting balancy crux sequence.

FA: Bryce Martin, 2015

Immediately left of Pigs In Space, with a very short technical crux halfway. Originally featuring naked bolts all the way, the route has now been rebolted with hangers by Bryce.

FA: Bryce Martin & Craig Miller, 1991

Warning Flora and Fauna: 2 Wasp hives in pockets

Easy climbing up thru the caves to steep overhang at top.

FA: Bryce Martin & Dave Garrity, 1991

Easy 15 and great for first lead with bolts from ground up.

FA: Bryce Martin & Dave Garrity, 1991

Nice climbing on the arete past a scoop and series of bulges. Uses the old bolts with chain hangers. Two new grade 16's are to the right of it.

FA: Dave Garrity & Bryce Martin, 1991

Far right of Flying Cow Buttress

FA: Bryce Martin

Arahina, meaning 'to have been led' in Māori. This climb was put up for a group of Girl Guides to climb, and was named by them.

FA: Stephen Shaw, 3 Mar 2018

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