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Main Crag

16

Seasonality

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Description

Obvious high face of the crag, on your right soon after passing the second (smaller) gate. Faces the stream, a nice outlook. Rock quality is generally excellent, a little grimy on some of the lower sections of the right hand (easier) routes but cleaner with low minor overhangs on the harder left hand side of the crag.

Access issues inherited from Pakeho

Pakeho crag is located on private property. EVERY TIME you wish to climb you MUST obtain permission well in advance by emailing pakehocrag@glowing.co.nz. Please allow 1-2 days for a response. DO NOT enter the property without obtaining permission first.

Please only park in the designated parking area. Do not park on the drive or in any way obstruct access along the drive.

No new route development is permitted.

Leave gates as you found them, open or shut.

Stick to the climbing area. Please don’t go wandering off elsewhere on the property.

Take all rubbish with you, including food scraps.

Do not disturb stock.

No alcohol, dogs, fires, camping or littering.

Access to climbing is at your own risk. The landowners don’t have any knowledge of or expertise with the bolts and other fittings on the crag, and did not install them. It is your responsibility to ensure those fittings are safe and well maintained. The landowner takes no responsibility for any injury or death resulting from climbing or access to the climbs. This property is a commercial farm and as such has hazards associated with such an operation.

Routes

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Grade Route

Warning Fixed Gear: Anchor issue

FA: Bryce Martin

FA: Bryce Martin

Up left-trending line of bolts to a steepening crux and a rest under the roof. Pull around that to an easier juggy runout finish.

FA: Paul Hunt, 2009

FFA: Travis Cross, 2009

Through initial overlap then up to steep ground above.

FA: Tom Johns, 2010

FA: Bryce Martin

Follow the curving intermittent crack to left trending corner. Right at the roof to easier ground, then left to the anchor on the arete.

FA: Paul Hunt, 2009

FFA: Kierran McKay, 2009

Thin moves on the face after the little overhang.

FA: Paul Hunt, 2010

Warning Flora and Fauna: Cave monster

Climb the crack on mossy/ good holds into a slabby corner and a high first bolt. Climb the line of bolts rightwards then straight up with Tigger's anchor on your right. Traverse upwards and leftwards towards a fun finish.

Set: Paul Hunt

FA: Tom Johns, 2011

The following 4 routes are a mix and match of starts and finishes, usually starting up Hunny on my Paws or Tigger and finishing up Tiger or Tiger by the Tail. A belay is possible at the Tigger anchor if desired.

The right-trending slab next to the right-facing corner, finishing at the Tigger anchor. There is now a separate finish that skips the anchor, goes left up the small corner after the slab (not the main scoop) and traverses vaguely left to a fun finish at what is probably the anchor for the project next door.

FA: Paul Hunt, 2009

FFA: Gee Rad, 2010

The steepening slab broken by a ledge.

FA: Paul Hunt, 2009

FFA: Brad Hewson, 2009

From the Tigger anchor, climb the overhanging groove, then trend right above the roof to reach the anchor.

FA: Paul Hunt, 2009

FFA: Brad Hewson, 2009

Up the groove from the Tigger anchors as for Tiger, then instead of finishing right, go straight up and pull through the large roof that caps the cliff to finish.

FA: Paul Hunt, 2010

Up the face a left side of scoop, join Heffalump Trap for a couple of bolts, then straight up above the ledge and through the overhang on the right side. Up to Tiger anchor.

FA: Paul Hunt, 2010

Up the corner crack and face right of it, stepping left to a ledge. Clip the high bolt and step right above the overlap, then up to broken corner finish.

FA: Paul hunt, 2009

FFA: Stewart Dempsey, 2009

Straight up from marker to ledge then steepening slab. Pull through roof and straight up.

FA: Paul Hunt, 2009

Up easily to reach the corner crack then bridge.

FA: Paul Hunt, 2009

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Activity

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