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Off The Grid

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 37
14

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Shawthing Rocks

You will need to be a bit organised to climb at Shawthing Rock… Ring/text at least a day before to book in (not after 9pm please), it’s a working farm; there may be hazards to tell you about.

• Stephen Shaw 021-742-988

stephen74667@gmail.com

• Access is a privilege. Not a right.

• Probably closed in the wet winter months.

• No dogs, no shooting. The normal stuff!

• Follow the leave no trace guide- so take all your rubbish (Including biodegradable) out with you.

• Only one group per day.

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts off in a wide round corner, climbs through an over lap, with an easy slab finish. Double bolt and chain Anchor.

FA: Stephen Shaw, Oct 2020

Climbs an arete just to the right of a dirty hand crack, then easier slab finish. Double bolt, chain and maillon rapide anchor. Originally the bottom was protected with cams (size 2 to 5) in the crack, the left hand line is about a grade easier.

FA: Stephen Shaw, 9 Aug 2020

Starts a few meters to the right of "Enjoying Creation", on steep finger pockets. Rest the fingers on the slab, before following the right leaning arete. Save some energy to clip the chains! The name is because this was the 100th climb put up at Shawthing Rocks. Double bolt and chain anchor with MR.

FA: Stephen Shaw, Sep 2021

Steep climbing on real nice rock, loads of bolts, but if you stop to clip them all you may run out of stream. Gets the afternoon sun, a great winter climb. Has a pull cord to set up a top rope. Double bolt, chain, and Maillon rapide anchor.

FA: Stephen Shaw, 9 Aug 2020

Starts in a hidden corner. Open handed, balancey moves on the crux, a small left hand traverse then up the face to the double bolt and chains.

FA: Stephen Shaw & Stephen Shaw, 17 Dec

Climb directly past the first two bolts. Then veer left of the 3rd and 4th bolts clipping the bolts with the right hand. If that's to much information for a n Onsight assent, sorry!! you can't un read it1. Has some real nice moves, and requires fast problem solving. Double bolt and chain anchor.

Maint: Stephen Shaw, Dec 2021

Set: Bryce Martin, Dec 2021

FA: Hannah Martin, 26 Dec

Mantle onto the slab, this is the hard bit! Climb to the top of the first boulder, then mantle onto the next. Leaving the comfort of a ledge is always a mind game, but this one is well protected. Follow the next slab and some punky moves gets you to the top. Double bolt and chain anchor.

FA: Sam Shaw, 17 Oct

Do you climb in the chimney or on the out side. Left , middle, or right? A good beginners puzzle to solve! Double bolt and chain anchor.

Set: Stephen Shaw

FA: Sam Shaw, 17 Oct

A short finger and hand crack. Double bolt and chain anchor

FA: Bryce Martin, 11 Oct

Starts on an aerate near a short crack. As you climb the holds get smaller, crux is near the top. Double bolt, chain and maillon rapide anchor.

FA: Stephen Shaw, 2019

A real nice climb, Bryce and Nathan cleaned it and I bolted it. We were worried a large rock at the top looked a bit unsafe. So we tried pulling it off with my 105 HP tractor. On the 3rd pull the chain broke and smashed the tail lights, so it's still there- chained back to the cliff above!

FA: Stephen Shaw, 2019

This one is harder than Procrastination, so maybe Procrastination is only a grade 16? Double bolt chain anchor.

FA: Bryce Martin & Belayer Stephen Shaw, Nov 2020

Varied climbing, starts on an arete then a shallow corner, through an over lap, and finishes up an arete. So climb past the last two bolt on the right hand side. Uses the same double bolt and chain anchor as the trad route "3- 4- 5"

FA: Bryce Martin & Belayer Stephen Shaw, Nov 2020

A narrow corner, nice little trad route. In the shade all day at bottom, the top gets some late afternoon sun. Use the crack for cams 3 to 5. You want at least two number 4 cams. Double bolt and chain anchor.

FA: Bryce Martin, Oct 2020

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