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Renaissance Wall

  • Grade context: AU

Rock: Loose rock above Wolverine to Three Steps to Heaven

There is a significant amount of loose rock sitting on top of the cliff from a recent natural rock fall at a higher cliff. Strongly advise to not do the climbs between these until someone has taken all of the loose rock down.

See warning details and discuss

Created 12 days ago
11
AU

Description

The Grand Daddy of Waipapa. Imagine Main Cliff, but steeper (including routes that stay dry in the rain), harder (don't bring the beginners), and technical (don't bring the gym rats).

Approach

The easiest way is to boat/paddle/swim to Pontoon Wall, then follow the track up the gully. Tracks are marked with pink tape, if there aren't enough fixed ropes feel free to add some where you struggle.

It is possible to mountain bike or walk in from Waipapa Dam. Note there are a maze of tracks, forestry roads and gully's to navigate, with no confirmed easiest way in yet confirmed.

Descent notes

All routes are to have two bolt belays, some may share bolts. Beware of projects that still have tree anchors or even no anchors.

Routes

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Grade Route

Technical climbing on small gear to the ledge at half height. Then punch it to the top up the splitter hand crack. Bolted anchor to left of crack before you hit the tree line.

FFA: Shannon Greenfield, Apr 2021

The fixed rope rebelayed at the top of the obvious scoop feature. Note any bolts currently installed are temporary retrievable bolts, lead falls are not advised. Closed Project.

Set: Michael Donovan & Shannon Greenfield

She's a little goey, and quite unique; some might even say visionary. Startup the corner with the rock pile at the bottom, then when the time is right step right onto the slab. Watch the top mantle, it's a heart breaker.

FFA: Refael White, Jan 2021

Closed Project.

Set: Michael Donovan

Closed Project.

Set: Daniel Krippner

Pitch 1 (16): Up the corner, escaping right before the Flake of Doom to a stance and trad belay (1-4 cams in belay). A bit filthy.

Pitch 2 (21): Hand-fist crack, ride top of flake of doom left to regain corner. Up to trees. Mega classic.

Double Cams .3-3 + a 4 at least.

FFA: Gerard Tarr & Justin Wimmer, Feb 2021

Closed Project.

Set: Gerard Tarr

Closed Project.

Cleaned, has anchors but bolts still to be finished. Open Project.

4 bolts to start, then trad from half height rest.

The first free ascent of Renaissance. The details of this and it's neighbour (Dacroona) were lost in the chaos of the COVID-19 crisis. Eventually Romain returned to the crag and enlightened everyone that there were some free routes.

Set: Romain Albert, 2020

The second free ascent of Renaissance, and again by the dirty hairy Frenchman. Bring your pocket game to get into the crack, then jam on up to the ledge and bolted belay above.

FFA: Romain Albert, 2020

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Activity

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