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Rock: Deteriorating rock quality

When I was climbing the route (monkey in the jungle) yesterday, I ripped a 80kg rock flake off the wall between the 5 and 6 bolt. Luckily I didn't clip the 6th bolt before the rock gave way because my rope would of been cut or damaged. I didn't put much pressure on the rock also. Climb with care at frog pond and check rock quality before climbing.

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Created 5 months ago

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Summary

Hard to find North Island gem.

Description

Paynes style face climbing.

Access issues

MUST contact the landowners before entering the farm to obtain permission. Ring Ben and Bex Stubbs on 07 8787426. The property is a commercial farm and as such has hazards associated with such a property. Access is at own risk.

Approach

Park next to the wooden gate located on Wiatomo Caves Road, 21.4km from the Hangatiki roundabout. Follow the track across a bridge through another gate and up the hill for approximately 500m. On your left will be a large tree down in the gully. Head towards it then up the other side of the gully through the bush. You should scramble over and through some rock to access the next gully over. You should be able to see the 'frogpond' in front of you. The crag is obvious and located next to the pond.

Ethic

Remember you are on private land. So no dogs, camping or disturbing farm animals. Make sure you take all your rubbish with you and leave the place as you found it. Leave all gates as you found them.

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