Follow the ridge to the left of Surrealist wall until you can see the splendor of the large free standing rock that is the castle. Recent development has seen some shiny hangers added to several new climbs.

Access issues inherited from Secret Valley

Permission must be obtained from the Singh family at the second house off the road.


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Climb the chimney that splits “The Castle” in two. Unless you are small, start up the lower side. A couple of large Friends are useful for protection.

FA: Grant Pearson & Jeremy Bainbridge, 1991

Start up the rib, to the right of the start of “Great Mission”, to the first ledge. Clip the bolt, then step left and climb the arete to another ledge. Either clip the other bolt and continue straight up the overhang (About 18) or, more easily, move left and up the left hand arete with a thread runner. 2 bolts. (Retrobolted with three bolts with hangers by Dave Offner and Andrew Wilkinson 10/01/16)

FA: Grant Pearson & Jim Napier, 1991

The South Face, round to the right of Lost Again. Climb the initial wall to the groove/ramp (the Giants Nose). Bridge, then the headwall on pockets to chains.

FA: Andrew Wilkinson & Dave Offner, 17 Oct 2015

Start a few meters right of Sleeping Giant Face. Climb up then diagonally rightwards to top on the highest tower, with fun finish to chains.

FA: Andrew Wilkinson, 3 Apr 2015

On the East Face of the Castle. Start at the right arete, climb leftwards to the runnel above the overhang, and then up to and over the next bulge to the final section and chains.

FA: Andrew Wilkinson & Dave Offner, 3 Apr 2015

Start at the highest point behind this face, left of TKR. Step into the base of the groove, then move right onto the wall, and climb up with a mantle move back into the groove. The easiest way to the top. Belay as for TKR.

FA: christian richardson, andrew wilkinson & dave offner, 6 Dec 2015

Start by pulling over the bulging rock left of Sneaking Up the Sewer, then into the groove, and the slab above. Chains set back beyond the block on the ledge.

FA: christian richardson, dave offner & andrew wilkinson, 26 Oct 2014

One of the many ways to capture a castle. The bolted scoop left of Joyous Gard, then the wall above.

FA: Andrew Wilkinson & Dave Offner, 26 Oct 2014

Climbs the steep rib left of Great Mission chimney, on the NW face. Pull over the initial bulge and the crux is passing the third bolt.

FA: Andrew Wilkinson & Dave Offner, 10 Jan 2016

50m Beyond the Castle. is an embracing semi- tubular feature. Climb the left side at 18 to chains. The right variant (Siege Tower) was cleaned and bolted ground up by AW as the gorse around the back was thought best avoided, grade 16.

FA: christian richardson, dave offner & andrew wilkinson, 5 Dec 2015


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