Help

Main Cliff

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

Excellent varied climbing from Grade 14 to 28, mostly in the 18 to 20 range. Home of some mega classics.

Access issues inherited from Waipari

Please sign in, there is a logbook at the roadside gate. No dogs, no camping or overnighting, no fires. This is a working farm, leave all gates open or closed as you found them.

Approach

From main carpark walk back along track to cliff. 3 minutes walk.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Awesome climbing on big pockets up the steep wall to delicate slab and onto arete to anchors. Pumpy.

FA: Bryce Martin & Dan Hawthorn, 1990

Nice climbing up vertical face to get into the groove (crux). Onto slab at top for a toe crunching experience you won't forget in a hurry.

FA: Bryce Martin & Dave Garrity, 1991

As good (or hard) a grade 16 as you'll find anywhere. Steep start to technical slab climbing the whole way to the top on spaced bolts.

FA: Dave Garrity & Bryce Martin, 1991

Nice face climbing up to ledge. Layback off steep arete to get to anchors.

FA: David Moorhouse, 1998

Climb the short slab. At Grade 16?

FA: Richard Bull, 1998

Short slab on the tiniest of holds.

FA: Richard Bull, 1998

FA: Dave Garrity & Bryce Martin, 1990

A hard start and run out for the grade. Cams can be added between some bolts to help with the nerves, 2 x yellow and 1 x red are handy.

FA: Dave Garrity & Bryce Martin, 1990

A great climb, especially if you do the extension. Although because of this the holds are not as positive as they were so more like a grade 18?

FA: Gerald Lanning & Bruce Culvert, 1990

Technical slab to start followed by layback off steep headwall.

FA: Richard Bull, 1998

Work your way up the slab start to then test your confidence moving through the roof before a pumpy finish. A must do if you are visiting Waipari

FA: Luke Newnham, Bryce Martin & Bryan Moore, 1990

Classic. Get onto wall in corner. Climb arete then onto steep overhanging wall on great holds. Mantle over top to anchors

FA: Bryan Moore & Bryce Martin, 1990

Another excellent grade 18 climb. Get up thru corner, mantle to ledge for tricky moves over bulge and on up to anchors.

FA: Bryce Martin & Gerald Lanning, 1990

Another must-do 19. Up to ledge, thru overhang onto face. Mantle to ledge for hard moves to anchors.

FA: Bryce Martin & Margot Harkness, 1990

Climb up the groove left of Tusla Time to the anchors on the rock face to your left.

FA: Bryce Martin, 1991

Mantle up onto ledge. Layback all the way to the top.

FA: Richard Bull, 1998

FA: Chris Plant, 1993

FA: Scott Mooney, 1998

Start up 'White Christmas' to it's third bolt then traverse into the bottom of 'Burn' and finish up that route.

FA: Craig, 11 Jun 2017

FA: Bryce Martin & Pete Manning, 1990

Straight up next to the arete through steep overlaps, onto short face, and on up to anchors. Harder than you'd think. You can normally do a climb an easy way and a hard way. It's easy to make this climb a 19, Bryce originally graded this climb 18. You decide!

FA: Bryce Martin, Roger Bays & Dave Garrity, 1990

FA: Bryce Martin, 1991

FA: Sarah Massey & Adrian Jones, 1998

FA: Sarah Massey & Adrian Jones, 1998

FA: Paul Burling

Up the face on small holds.

Sit start on the face left of 'Terror Incognito' arete. Follow crimps up and over bulge to good hold.

Climb to first bolt.

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Activity

Check out what is happening in Main Cliff.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文