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Description

Problems described northwards from the entrance to Animal Biscuit Valley. Ends in Cave underneath the Honey Comb wall.

Access issues inherited from Waipari

Please sign in, there is a logbook at the roadside gate. No dogs, no camping or overnighting, no fires. This is a working farm, leave all gates open or closed as you found them.

Ethic inherited from Waipari

Please do not top rope directly through anchor bolts. Please rappel after cleaning anchors, rather than lowering through the bolts (unless the anchor bolts have additional lower-off rings). This is to ensure longevity of the anchor bolts.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 10 8m
2 18 8m

Starts on Slab of Bolts / Starting Small, then traverses the 6m lip out left via some wild moves before a tricky headwall exit.

Draw retrieval beta: clean as many draws as possible on your way down then top rope back up to clean the rest. If you don't want to swing out, ab down off the 1st pitch anchor.

Set: Dan Head & Dave Hood, 2 Sep 2022

FA: Dan Head, 22 Oct 2022

CLOSED PROJECT. Starts on the easy slab for 3 bolts then heads straight up the vertical wall and tackles the imposing overhang with a fixed draw at the crux. Shares an anchor with The Upside Down.

Set: Dan Head & Dave Hood, Sep 2022

FA: Richard Bull

Starts with a slab on good holds, which transitions into a lay back. This leads to a good rest at the top before tackling the roof through pumpy moves.

FA: Richard Bull, 1993

Hard start. Move up through a few bulges on good holds. Hard finish. Careful clipping the anchors. Originally graded 17...

FA: Bryan Moore & Bryce Martin, 1991

Hard start leads to an slab to clip second bolt. Crux consists of a layback on minimal feet until a victory jug to clip from. Juggy from 3rd bolt to the anchor.

FA: Richard Bull

Traverse hands on top of boulder.

On stand alone boulder before Bring Your Daughter Wall.

Traverse hands below top.

On stand alone boulder before Bring Your Daughter Wall.

Climb up right tending face.

Climb up the easy slab to ledge. ('Slab of Bolts/ Starting Small' route)

Climb up the easy slab to ledge. ('Slab of Bolts/ Starting Small' route) But with no hands!

Climb the steeper slab to first bolt. ('The Wrath of God' route)

Climb the black groove to first bolt ('Time Guardians of Destruction' route)

Start at far right move left and up, cross and up, right before moving down. Keep moving to left arete.

FA: Simon Cook

Low traverse from right to left.

The reverse of 'G-force' with sit start (Underneath 'Time Guardians of Destruction') Climb left to right.

Straight up arete to high pocket.

Dyno from undercling to sloper.

Sit start then through the bulge to reach high pocket.

Same start as Salsa. Finishing on jug on Mister Daddy Long Legs route.

Run and jump. Catch the ledge between the bolts.

Climb to first bolt.

Climb the arete. Opposite 'Mister Daddy Long Legs'

Traverse left along wall then out to the steep arete to good holds at top.

Start further left than previous V4. Out to steep arete to good hold at top.

Climb inside cave over roof left to right.

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