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The Moon Boulder (The Australia face)

Seasonality

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Summary

Pocketed face climbing

Description

Large face with a scoop in the middle at the bottom, shaped a little like Australia

Problems described from the South end of the Australia face northwards.

Access issues

Nice sheltered sunny gully in the winter. Hot sunny gully in the summer.

Approach

1 minute walk from the carpark.

Ethic inherited from Waipari

Please do not top rope directly through anchor bolts. Please rappel after cleaning anchors, rather than lowering through the bolts (unless the anchor bolts have additional lower-off rings). This is to ensure longevity of the anchor bolts.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

A great climb up the right hand side of the face, but sees little traffic. Start up the back of the boulder as for Dweezil logic and move to the left of the shelf. Belay here from the double bolts, to reduce rope drag. Climb left and out into the steep slabby face and through the bulge.

FA: Ross Goulding, 1992

FA: Dave Vass

A boulder problem start through the lower roof and into the face (crux). Another hard move before reaching easier climbing to the top.

FA: Richard Bull

Bouldery start through the scoop. Then easy climbing to the top.( I believe the original name was Lunar Leper, because when Wayne cleaned it bits kept falling off)

FA: Wayne Rohrs

Climb is located to the left of the large scoop/cave at the base of the boulder. Start left of the bolts. Traverse right to the first bolt then straight up.

FA: Debbie Hinde

Left of Moon Base Alpha, Hard fingery start, easier middle, and exciting finish.

To the left of 'Lazy Ass Aucklanders!', on the same face. Grade provisional until more information gathered.

FA: Unknown

Climb to the first bolt.

Traverse from Lunatic to Luna Leper.

FA: Scott Mooney

Climb up to the first bolt on Lunar Leopard.

Climb up to the first bolt.

A tall person start. Climb up to the bolt in the middle of the face. Wear a harness and lower off.

Footless up the arete.

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