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Routes in Waipari for selected grade

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Showing all 19 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
The Beer Garden
17 Summer Song for Scotty

Hard start up vertical wall, then over onto delicate slab. Licheny slab that has been cleaned now.

FA: Tony Sargent

Sport 12m, 5
17 Behind the Line

Get up thru corner onto face for great pumpy climbing to top on mostly good holds.

FA: James Wright

Sport 15m, 6
Animal Biscuit Valley Little Spurt Wall
17 Revenge of the Gnomes

Great climbing on good holds on the slab, then up the face to the anchor. Make sure to use your feet.

FA: Charles Lawson & David Moorhouse, 1999

Sport 9m, 3
Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Australia face)
17 Moon Base Alpha

Climb is located to the left of the large scoop/cave at the base of the boulder. Start left of the bolts. Traverse right to the first bolt then straight up.

FA: Debbie Hinde, 1994

Sport 20m, 6
17 Lazy Ass Aucklanders!

Left of Moon Base Alpha, Hard fingery start, easier middle, and exciting finish.

Sport 16m, 5
Animal Biscuit Valley Da Cave
17 All in a Mouse's Night

FA: Shane McQuoid

Sport 8m
Slug Wall
17 Eric

Short, vertical face. Harder than it looks with a ton of bolts.

Sport 8m, 5
17 Snarf

Pretty fun short climb. Slight overhang if started on the right of the first bolt, or a foot-focussed start on the left.

FA: Bryce Martin & Dave Garrity, 1990

Sport 10m, 3
17 Pyro Pete

A more technical start than other routes on Slug Wall leads to a fun and feet dependent finish.

FA: David Moorhouse, 1998

Sport 18m, 7
17 Slug

Slightly shorter than Firestarter, but similar style. Good moves on a slab that transitions into a slightly pumpy end.

Anchor bolts are above the corner from main face - quickdraw top-rope anchors have a risk of being tweaked over the corner. Be prepared to set up an alternative anchor type or use extra gear to keep your carabiners off of the corner.

FA: 1998

Sport 15m, 6
17 Firestarter

One of the more sustained routes on Slug Wall. Slab start leads to a rest half way up the route, with a pumpy finish.

FA: 1998

Sport 18m, 6
Echo Gully MUAC Wall/ Panama Wall
17 Lover's Leap

FA: Fionn Claydon, 2006

Sport 6m, 1
Main Cliff
17 Thunder Blaster

Nice face climbing up to ledge. Layback off steep arete to get to anchors.

FA: David Moorhouse, 1998

Sport 20m, 7
17 Climatic Conclusion

A great climb, especially if you do the extension. Although because of this the holds are not as positive as they were so more like a grade 18?

FA: Gerald Lanning & Bruce Culvert, 1990

Sport 20m, 7
17 Blazing Away

Straight up next to the arete through steep overlaps, onto short face, and on up to anchors. Harder than you'd think. You can normally do a climb an easy way and a hard way. It's easy to make this climb a 19, Bryce originally graded this climb 18. You decide!

FA: Bryce Martin, Roger Bays & Dave Garrity, 1990

Sport 12m, 4
17 Wall Flower

FA: Bryce Martin, 1991

Sport 12m, 5
Bete Noire Wall
17 WorkSafe

Start up the face (do not use the left corner), step right onto the arete at first bolt, follow your nose to the top.

FA: Bryce Martin, 2 Apr 2022

Sport 20m, 8
17 Ignimbrite Crack

The obvious crack line less than a meter left of Ignimbrite which nastily retrobolted it. Watch the rock quality down low. The FA is contentious.

FA: 1990

Trad 20m
17 Morning Rain

Climb the arete and face to the right of the trad crack.

FA: Bryce Martin, 20 Oct 2022

Sport 15m, 7

Showing all 19 routes.

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