The Main Cliff




Access issues inherited from Hospital Flat

Hospital Flat is conservation area administered by the Department of Conservation.

Ethic inherited from Hospital Flat

Some confusing ethics have resulted in bolted cracks. This is largely a sport venue.


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Grade Route

Committing moves to a fixed pin, then traverse up and right.

The left trending crack

Short and gnarly

A scrubby crack.

But it is a short route. Climb the slab

Start off the ramp at the thin crack, then traverse right to another crack, which leads through the overlap. Traverse right below a roof to the anchor. The cracks take good natural pro, but take care with placements - some stunning groundfalls have occurred here.

FA: Calum Hudson

Start Sensa Dextra and climb straight up the crack without traversing, then through the overlap.

Start Sensa Dextra and climb straight up the crack without traversing, then through the overlap

...or a courageous approach. Start below the twin cracks to join Sensa Dextra.

Climb the corner, then move left along the big flake.

Left hand side of the arete and wall.

This is a classic sharp arete, with fairly sustained climbing up nicely textured rocks. All bolts are well-spaced. Some holds are a little shiny from use.

FA: murray ball

A forced contrivance. Start Headbangers Arete then climb right on the knobbly wall.

FA: chris hughes

Thin moves up the face to finish either in the wide crack or up Wasted on the Wing.

Climb the diagonal crack up and left.

Start Wasted on the Wing but continue straight up the wall. It's a long way to the first bolt.

Left of 'Do I Have To?'. Starts up face in corner using Quartz edges, hand crack, head left into chimney and top out to use same anchors as 'Do I Have To?'.

FA: Ian.Grabowski & Diego Le Chan

FA: Ed Nepia

A short one to help spread out the crowds.

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