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Access issues inherited from Hospital Flat

Hospital Flat is conservation area administered by the Department of Conservation.

Ethic inherited from Hospital Flat

Some confusing ethics have resulted in bolted cracks. This is largely a sport venue.

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Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Scott Standen & David Bunn, 2006

19 to the first anchor (7 bolts)

FA: Nick Cradock & Murray Ball, 2002

Start as for She's a Little Goer but traverse right under the roof. Access for Papparazzi's Revenge.

FA: Nick Cradock & Murray Ball, 2003

Follow the diagonal crack to the left, then up a slab and left again below the intimidating roof.

FA: Whitney Thurlow

Short wall past two bolts

FA: Nick Cradock & Murray Ball, 2003

Magnificent roof starting from the Peewee/English Hose anchor. Extension goes at 28.

FA: Ed Nepia, 2002

FA: Michal Karnik, 2013

From the Peewee anchor traverse right under the roof then move up the exposed face. 30m abseil to the ground, make sure you have a 60m rope.

FA: Whitney Thurlow

FA: Murray Ball, 2002

The middle route on the steep upper wall. An excellent extension to Pocket Edition or start from the Get Loaded anchors. 30m abseil.

FA: David Hiddleston, Nick Cradock & Murray Ball, 2003

Hard start to the crack and seam through the roof

FA: Murray Ball, 2002

Right and up on good black rock to the arete.

FA: Nick Cradock, 2002

2nd pitch after diversion from Sloppy Drunk. Climb the steep corner on the right of the upper wall.

FA: Nick Cradock, 2002

Horizontal traverse to the left from the 4th bolt of Get Loaded. Shares anchor with UTT.

The heinous thin corner, then move left up the flake on the steep face. More steep pocketed rock leads to a slab finish.

Set: Greg Johnston

FA: Scott Standen

Corner crack system (originally an aid route) extended to include the pocketed face above. Balancy leg spreading nirvana can be replaced with an alternative start 5m right (then traverse back into the corner).

FA: Nick Cradock & Glen Einam, 2008

Steep face climbing until you can escape right on Little Doris

FA: Murray Ball, 2002

Left-leaning slab to a steep face. Tricky for the grade.

FA: Nick Cradock, 2002

Steep face with a challenging crus and a commiting finish.

Set: Murray Ball

FA: Hugh Barnard

FA: Murray Ball, 2002

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