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Access issues inherited from Turakirae Head

You must park your vehicle in the public car park that is 300m before the end of the public road. From the car park, walk along the road and over the Orongorongo River Bridge. Access to Turakirae Head is via a covenant on private property. A fenceline defines the extent of the covenant. Visitors must keep to the seaward side of the fence.

Routes

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Grade Route

The high wall. Exit right up the groove (V2) or direct via a long lock to a sweet pocket (V2+). Usual rock warning applies, and the landing is quite poor.

FA: Peter Griffins, 2005

Start on the large flake. Climb the layback/crack feature. Beware of loose holds!

FA: Jono Clarke, 2005

As for Kish Kash but head right around the arete to a ‘mail slot’ hold. From here, head straight up the wall on spaced holds. Take care on the upper section; the holds are loose & a fall could be fatal!

FA: David Kopp, 2007

As for Kish Kash again but this time exit straight up the prow. Shit rock, excellent moves & caution required.

FA: Diavid Kopp

Sit start. Climb up and left into the large undercling. Gain a sloping pinch below the lip (a knee bar helps), find some jugs on the lip then exit up the mossy crack.

FA: Kester Brown, 2005

An interesting eliminate. Sit start as for Kish Kash. Staying below the large undercling feature, head left to the undercut pinch on Tyrant. From here, head to the lip and exit as for Kish Kash. If you combine Kashed Out and Kash & Carry, you get Kashed Up V7ish.

FA: John Palmer, 2006

Non-eliminate version of Tyrant. Start as per but from the lefthand gaston, move right to a sloper & then again to the edge on Kash & Carry. Finish up the groove.

FA: Liam Dickenson, 2011

An eliminate line, as it happens. Sit start as for Supersonic but with left hand in a shallow pocket instead. Roll up and gaston the large sloper. Pull right into the obvious undercut pinch, then head left for the lip (via a very bad intermediate pinch). Exit up Kish Kash or drop off.

FA: John Palmer, 2006

Sit start, spanned on some sloping pinches. Pull up and right into a large sloping sidepull then lunge for the distant narrow groove.

FA: John Palmer, 2005

Sit start in the low roof on a sidepull & an undercling. Pull up right to a pinch, go left to an improbable sloper then double take to a much more probable sloper. Swing right to a jug and top out if you feel like it.

FA: John Palmer, 2005

Start as for Trigonometry but head right on generous holds. Link some well-spaced jugs at the top of the Kish Kash wall, reverse Kish Kash and swing around the arete to finish on the large flake.

FA: John Palmer, 2005

The featured arete is best climbed from a sit start, although the stand start is a pleasant enough V0. Please be very careful on this problem - although it is dead easy, some of the rock is very loose and gravity is everywhere!

Start on a large jug on the right arete. Traverse left across the start of Zigzagged into a cruxy match at the base of the vertical seam. Continue left on good angles and finish up the easy part of Boilerplate.

FA: John Palmer, 2007

Climb the high zig zag feature.

FA: Kristen Foley, 2005

Climb the high zig zag feature. SS V2.

FA: Kristen Foley, 2005

Pull on using an incut gaston and a small crimp (which is broken a little since the first ascent). Pop for the slot and exit direct or right.

FA: John Palmer, 2006

Sit start on two small crimps, pull up and make a long move into the start of Boilerplate.

FA: Josiah Jacobsen-Grocott, 2012

Pull on the wall, using the obvious undercling and a broad pinch out right. Snatch the lip and mantle.

FA: John Palmer, 2005

The North Island’s single hardest move, and once longest standing, hard project. Pull on the wall, using the obvious undercling. Snatch the lip and mantle.

FA: Oskar Wolff, 2021

Start sitting on the block (as for Inertia Direct). From incut edges traverse right along the crack, then along the sloping lip, to the arete.

FA: John Palmer, 2006

Sit start on the chalky finger jugs. Make a couple of burly moves right then finish straight up on jugs.

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