Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.9 | ★★ Oby-Won Ryobi
FA: Ed Esmond, 1999 | 15m, 6 | Rumney | ||
5.13a | ★★★ Lounge Puppy
Start on easy grey stone to the fourth bolt and the business stays with you until the very last move.Stellar . Set: Alex Catlin, 2006 | 20m, 9 | El Salto; C.d.G. | ||
V2 - 4 | ★ Put All Your Fears to Rest
Start on the big ledge and dyno/deadpoint to the top of the boulder. One-move wonder. Grade greatly varies on where you start, how you climb it and your height. | Calabogie | |||
5.11a | ★★ Super Nova
1
5.11a
2
5.8
3
5.6
4
5.6
5
5.9
6
5.6
7
5.9
8
5.8
Starts with some technical climbing that ends on a nice ledge (you can use the easier "Gusada Negra" route that ends in the same set of anchors as well) After that its easy climbing with classic EPC runouts to train you mentally for more EPC climbing. There are plans to make it climbable all the way up the mountain but for now it ends in P8 where you can have lunch on. Rappel down the line. FA: Bob Almond & Magic Ed | 230m, 8 | El Potrero Chico | ||
5.7 | ★★ Scylla and Charybdis
Down and right from the ramp that easy street and the other climbs start from, a rib of rock descends an extra few meters into the forest. The climb starts at the base of this rib, and goes mostly directly upwards from there, though it does wander a bit rightwards at a dihedral, then traverse back leftwards at the end of this. Route is a rope-stretcher on a 70m rope. Climb/TR/Lower-off anchor is about 2m from actual top-out. Use this one, unless actually topping out, then the higher anchor on the platform works. After being a TR route, this spent a while as a trad line but, on gear, the route was a bit run-out in places, and gear was often small and/or tricky to place, though generally with decent stances for placing. So, retro-bolted in 2020 with permission of the FA. When this route was first climbed on TR, there were two large loose stacks of rock near the route, the first (lower down) to the left of the route, and the 2nd farther up to the right of the route. This route was named because it travelled carefully between the two scary monsters. FA: David Gibbs & Kate Hunt (top rope), 2011 FFA: David Gibbs, 2012 | 36m, 15 | Lac Sam | ||
5.9 | ★★★ La renversée
The roof with monster jugs and the accessible grade make this one of the most popular routes of the area. | 20m, 7 | Kamouraska | ||
5.10c | ★★ Romancing The Stone
FA: Ted Hammond, 1986 | 18m, 6 | Rumney | ||
5.7 | ★★★ Roadside Attraction
Bolted Anchors. 70 m rope to rap down. FA: Greg Smith & Ron Snider, 1984 | 43m, 2 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.3 | ★★ Betty
FA: Betty Woolsey & Fritz Wiessner | 49m, 2 | Shawangunks | ||
5.10c | ★★ Popeye and the Raven
FA: Joe Turley & Gene Smith, 1981 | 25m, 4 | Squamish | ||
5.10b | ★★ The Green Piece
Starts on the top terrace. | 21m, 6 | New River Gorge | ||
5.10a | ★ Holes to Heaven
Shares anchor with Lumpy Lane. FA: Roger Chayer, 2003 | 12m, 9 | Canmore | ||
5.10b | ★★★ La Bella
Grieta bonita, Crux al final. Set: Carsten Thess & Martin Siller FA: Carsten Thess | 18m, 10 | San Cristóbal de las Casas | ||
5.11b | ★★ Twinkie
The lower half of Brick Top and currently the first route encountered when arriving at the Core Values Sector. All routes in this sector have markers at their base. Climb the vertical face passing several cruxes. Set: Michael Burke & Martin Brisson FA: Michael Burke, May 2015 | 10m, 5 | Calabogie | ||
5.9 | ★★ Las Chimuelas
1
5.8
2
5.9
3
5.8
Walk up the trail made of concrete tires leftwards from the tin pavilion until you get to the left-most set of bolts, just before the gulley that is "Tamirindo". The first pitch trends leftwards, avoiding the obvious roof. FA: Magic Ed, Tami & Ismael Garza | 69m, 3 | El Potrero Chico | ||
5.9 | ★★ Nancy
First climb to the RHS. | 8m, 5 | Jilotepec | ||
5.10c | ★★ Nine Gallon Buckets
An eight bolt extension to the original. There is yet another anchor about 2/3 of the way up but ignore this as it's no harder (and even better) to go to the top. | 30m, 12 | Smith Rock State Park | ||
5.10a | ★★ Chocolate Corner
| 18m | Indian Creek Canyon | ||
5.9 | ★★ Dude, I Think She is the King
Start 10m right of Rob's Route. This previously mixed climb had bolts added in 2018, eliminating the need for gear but the 1st bolt is very high. For shorter people, the crux at the last bolt feels more like 10a/b. Belay from chains above the leaning cedar. P2 of "Balk and Chalk" (25 m, 5.8, 10 bolts) starts at this anchor and is a great way to finish. FA: Kieran Andrews, 2000 | 27m, 7 | Eagle's Nest | ||
5.10c | ★★ Motarola
| 26m, 9 | El Potrero Chico | ||
5.10a | ★★ Guillermo Costecho
Set: Timbon | 33m, 15 | La Huasteca | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Yankee Clipper
1
5.8
2
5.8
3
5.10b
4
5.8
5
5.9
6
5.10b
7
5.9
8
5.9
9
Class 3
10
5.10b
11
5.9
12
5.9
13
5.8
14
5.10b
15
5.12a
The summit register is at the end of pitch 13, most people skip the last two pitches, and, especially, the last pitch. Bring a 70m rope and 24 draws if linking pitches. Fixed draws on P7 for rappelling the traversing pitch. FA: Magic Ed, Tami & Ismael Garza | 460m, 15, 12 | El Potrero Chico | ||
5.10c | ★★★ Pancho Villa Rides Again
1
5.10c
2
5.10b
3
5.10b
4
5.9
5
5.10a
First pitch was originally climbed as a trad route called, "The Adventures of Mr Bean". | 160m, 5, 14 | El Potrero Chico | ||
Generic (for logbook)
| Farley Ledges | ||||
5.9 | ★ Lawyers, Guns and Money
FA: Chris Miller, 1999 | 15m, 6 | Canmore | ||
5.7 | ★★ Stichter Quits
| 35m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.8 | ★ Face Up to That Crack
FA: Kevin Pogue & Elisa Weinman Pogue, 1992 | 21m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.10a | ★★ Wacko Tango
FA: Alex Bain & Mathieu Paul | 12m, 5 | Red Rock: Pet Wall | ||
5.8 | ★ Dirty Gerdie
| 15m | Shawangunks | ||
5.10d | ★★ Lado Blanco
FA: Alejandro Gomez Aldama, 2008 | 15m, 9 | San Cristóbal de las Casas | ||
5.7 | ★ Don't Look, Just Climb
Starts around the corner from 'Arete, Eh?' and shares an anchor with it. | 9m, 4 | Beaver Valley | ||
5.10c | ★★ More Than Just a Pretty Face
FA: Brad Richie, 2006 | 12m, 5 | Squamish | ||
5.10a | ★★ Paul's Crack
FA: glenn payan & paul starr | 26m | Squamish | ||
5.7 | ★★ Fruit Loops
Good beginner granite crack. Don't take it for granted, requires solid jamming skills to tame the grade down to 5.7 and has some thin feet. If you know what your doing though this is an excellent warmup with a nice chimney as second pitch option which is only done by every second party or so. Chimney protects with midrange cams in a series of horizontal cracks to emerge onto a short face climb to reach the anchors. The crack pitch is ice but this gets stars only if you also do the Chimney pitch. | 43m, 2 | Rumbling Bald | ||
5.8 - 10a | ★ Serpientes y Escaleras
Ultima via hacia la Izq. Armada por Marcelo Gonzalez. cuidado con bloques sueltos a la izquierda de esta via. Ruta al lado izquierdo de Parasiempre. | 18m, 10 | La Huasteca | ||
5.10d | ★★ Tranceiopathic
Dirty rock down low leads to glassy climbing up high on great jugs. FA: Ulric Rousseau, 2014 | 21m, 14 | El Salto; C.d.G. | ||
5.10b | ★★ Nocturnal Tendencies
Climb the slabby left trending corner to stand on a block. Pull up on the next ledge, this is where the climb starts to get a little more serious. Pull over a small roof then a big roof with a V-notch using holds left and/or right of the notch. FFA: Jeff, Dylan Carson & Jim Clark, 19 Aug 2020 | 16m, 6 | Calabogie | ||
5.9 | ★★ Emilio's Posse
| 30m | El Potrero Chico | ||
5.13a | ★★★ Diplodocus
Fun huecoey traverse to the left, climb all the huecos, goes all the way to Arbolito`s anchor, crosses ununpentium as well. 5 star line. bolted by Ricardo Vara. FA: Ricardo Vara | 22m, 13 | El Salto; C.d.G. | ||
5.9 | ★ Electric Koolaid
The left-most bolted route. The first bolt is high, very high. Most of the climbing to it is easy -- 5.2/5.3 stuff, but unless you're quite tall and reachy, one very high up (15' or so) 5.7ish move must be done to clip the first bolt, making the start very committing. | 14m, 5 | Red Rock | ||
5.10a | ★★ Plate Tectonics
| 20m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ||
V0 | ★ Running of the Bulls
Climb the well featured slab between the tree and the arête. | 4m | Calabogie | ||
5.11c | ★★★ Mexico in Flames
1
5.11c
2
5.11a
The REAL GRADE of this route si 5.11c. If you decide to stay on the blank face of the wall and DO NOT use the dihedral/arète on the right side of the final section the grade is harder 5.12a/b but this is a variation and should not be considered the official grade of the route since it is not the best beta. | 58m, 2, 8 | El Potrero Chico | ||
5.10c | ★★★ Loompa
| 17m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.9 | ★ Hot Chocolate (Arbutus Tree) | 15m | Lighthouse Park | ||
5.9 | ★★ Fugitivo
Has name plate. Set: Dan dela fuente & Rulo | 30m, 9 | La Huasteca | ||
V0 | ★★ Westward Ho
| 4m | Calabogie | ||
5.10c | ★★ Los 3 amigos
Set: Connie | 25m, 9 | La Huasteca | ||
5.9 | ★ Lefty
Featured slabby start, steepening towards the anchors FA: Robbie Priestley, 2009 | 15m, 5 | Sully's Hangout | ||
5.11c | ★★ Mabruk
Stalactite climbing leads to a thin section through pockets to a finish on large stalactites. Set: christian ehlert | 20m, 8 | Guadalcázar | ||
5.8 | ★★ Zag | 18m | New River Gorge | ||
5.7 | ★★ Overhang Bypass
| 35m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.10d | ★★★ You Snooze You Loose
Great route, the go to route in the crag, excellent crimps side pulls pockets. | 22m, 6 | Nordic | ||
5.10b | ★★ Warriors
Comparte reunion Inyca, se puede dar belay con cuerda de 70mts desde abaja o con cuerda de 60mts desde la repisa donde hay una proteccion para anclar al asegurador. Set: Americo Gaytan | 30m, 10 | La Huasteca | ||
5.7 | ★ Jugs Away | 10m | Lighthouse Park | ||
5.7 | ★★ Make it So
Climb though the broken corner then up the slab. First bolt crux, stick clip advised. Bottom and the ledge half way could use a bit more gardening but it is in climbable shape. FA: Jim Clark, 6 Aug 2020 | 12m | Calabogie | ||
5.10c | ★★ Elvis Lives | 13m, 7 | Canmore | ||
5.10d | ★★★ Peer Pressure
FA: Tom Bowker & Jay Lena, 1987 | 21m, 7 | Rumney | ||
5.10a | ★ What's Eating You?
FA: Todd Swain, Randy Schenkel & Andy Schenkel | 14m, 3 | Red Rock | ||
5.8 | ★ Stigmata
Nice moves down low and kind of ledgy up high. FFA: C Pechousek, 2013 | 15m, 5 | Mont Rigaud | ||
5.10b | ★ Water Ballet
Left side of the wall. Follows water mark to shrub at the top-out. Anchor from shrub trunk. | 10m | Austin | ||
5.10c | ★★ Ya no regresó
Ruta de muchos pies Set: MarceloGzz | 30m, 13 | La Huasteca | ||
5.10a | ★ I Must Mention Gentians
Route left of the crack in the corner, finishes a bit higher than the routes to the left. FA: John Martin, 1995 | 20m, 9 | Canmore | ||
V4 | ★★★ November
Sit start on the flakey jugs near the center of the boulder. Move up and left to top out using the big sidepull. | Calabogie | |||
5.9 | ★★ Former Rock Star
The first route outside gully right, just left of Impatience. Make some steep moves with large holds and tricky feet to a ledge near a large block. Finish left using a finger crack to anchor. | 17m, 5 | Mont Rigaud | ||
5.11a | ★ Green Horn
FA: Hugh Loeffler | 17m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.4 | ★ Belly Roll
FA: Goug Kerr & Norton Smithe | 46m | Shawangunks | ||
5.13a | ★★★ El Camino del Chino
Follow the golden stripe for awesome technical and long climbing. FA: Anthony Meeks, 2001 | 25m, 10 | El Salto; C.d.G. | ||
5.7 | ★★★ Birdland
A superb sustained route at the grade (5.7+). Very popular, due to bolted anchors, ability to be rappelled on single 70m rope, and very good climbing with generally solid protection. Start below the left-most of 2 obvious long cracks the split the lower part of the varnished buttress left of the corner that Spectrum climbs to the roof 60ft up. This is a few yards above a huge boulder that leans against the cliff creating a tunnel.
FA: Mark Limage & Chris Burton | 150m, 5 | Red Rock | ||
5.9 | ★★ Binou's Crack
crack narrows from hands to fingers as you climb, then gets very thin when you approach the anchors. Most climbers commit to the awkward off width on the left wall when the main crack thins out. Gear gets very thin at the top. | 16m | Indian Creek Canyon | ||
5.10b | ★ Make a Wish
FA: John Bronaugh & Christina Bronaugh, 1999 | 23m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.10b | ★★★ Illusion Dweller
Climb the long right-leaning hand & finger crack. | 30m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.10a | ★★ Panadero con el Pan
La ruta esta directamente enfrente de un sabino enorme. Set: Alberto Sanchez, 2013 FFA: Alberto Sanchez, 2013 FA: Alberto Sanchez, 2013 | 15m, 7 | La Presa | ||
5.10c | ★★ Mugre Mugre
Near the top, follow the flake that trends left to the anchors of "Mexico in Flames" | 29m, 9 | El Potrero Chico | ||
5.8 | ★★ La Remendada
Muy buena ruta. Le faltan 3 placas en sección muy fáciles | 23m, 8 | La Huasteca | ||
5.7 | ★★ Cragger
Main left crack. Tricky move off the ground 5.6/7 afterwards FA: A. Stevenson, E. Olson & D. Vu, 2016 | 20m | Squamish | ||
5.9 | ★★ A Bunch of BS
Blocky features lead to a ledge which turn into a bunch of sidepulls (Warning as of 05/20,the fourth bolt is missing on this climb) FA: Shannon Sullivan, 2009 | 15m, 4 | Sully's Hangout | ||
5.9 | ★★ Blue du Jour
Climb the striking arete. | 23m, 9 | Squamish | ||
5.5 | ★★ Candy Corner
| 29m | Seneca | ||
5.10b | ★ Catch Me
FA: Gene Smith & Joe Turley, 1980 | 25m | Squamish | ||
5.10d | ★★★ La casa abandonada
De las mejores lineas en ese grado del sector. FA: Martin Siller, 2018 | 14m, 7 | San Cristóbal de las Casas | ||
5.9 | ★ Almost Nothing to It
| 10m, 4 | Austin | ||
5.6 | ★★ Shish-Kebob
Last route before the free-standing boulder. A right-drifting sport route that is very closely bolted (every 2m or so). Has a big pine tree running close to the climb. | 15m, 7 | Mont Rigaud | ||
5.9 | ★★ Mr Patacca
| 29m, 9 | El Potrero Chico | ||
5.7 | ★ Ra
Start at the crack just to the right of the Sun Worshiper. This is a "slab" route with some decent jugs. FA: Randy Kielbsiewicz | 11m, 5 | Beaver Valley | ||
5.6 | ★ Helios
Slab veering right FA: Randy Kielbsiewicz | 10m, 5 | Beaver Valley | ||
5.11c | ★★ La Mujer Peluda
In the center of the "curve". Very high first bolt and maybe a little run-out at times. | 27m, 7 | Jilotepec | ||
5.8 | ★★ St. Elmo's Fire
The bolted crack up the middle of the wall | 20m, 8 | Cheakamus Canyon | ||
5.9 | ★ Polka
Starts a few meters right of Foxtrot (rightmost bolted line). Rings at the top. | 15m, 8 | Halton Region | ||
5.6 | ★★ Double Dip
| 40m, 5 | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.8 | ★ Danonino
eight route. SHORT SLABBY ROUTE ,GREAT FOR BEGGINERS!,12 M ROUTE. FA: Connie Rochelle Catlin, Sep 2016 | 12m, 7 | El Salto; C.d.G. | ||
5.10d | ★★★ Pitch Black
1
5.9
2
5.10d
3
5.9
4
5.10b
5
5.10a
6
5.9
Climbs the big black streak on the eastern side of the canyon at the top right of the Conundrums crag. This climb is in the shade all day, so a good choice for a warm day. The route is quite popular and can get very overcrowded. Beware of the loose blocks on the final pitch, some are marked with white-painted skulls and have to be willfully avoided.
The top out is not on the ridge (a small boulder problem might lead you to the ridge). Use a 70 m rope. Rappel the route. FA: Marko Steffen, Mehgan Curry & Kevin Nicastro | 250m, 6 | El Potrero Chico | ||
5.7 | ★★ Davy Jones’ Locker
FA: Don Serl & Dave Jones, 1982 | 15m | Squamish | ||
5.7 | ★★★ Aftonroe
1
5.7
28m
2
5.6
15m
3
5.7
28m
4
5.5
28m
5
5.6
30m
6
5.7
15m
7
5.7
29m
8
5.6
28m
9
5.3
15m
Aftonroe is currently the right-most bolt line in the Take It for Granite area. Descent is by rappel. FA: Mark Klassen & Todd Anthony-Malone, 2011 | 220m, 9, 10 | Banff | ||
V4 | ★★★ Easy in an Easy Chair
Start low and traverse right until it is possible to mantle. Slopes and hooks are abundant here. Classic frictiony slopers. | 3m | Squamish | ||
5.8 | ★★ Unknown5
Set: Cesar Jackie | 25m, 14 | La Huasteca | ||
5.7 | ★ Truth In Advertising
FA: Jim Shimberg, 1988 | 15m, 5 | Rumney | ||
5.9 | ★★ Le baiser du crapaud
Almost as good as the one to the left. Very exposed once you step on the slab near the top. | 20m, 7 | Kamouraska | ||
5.8 | ★ Booty and the Hoe Fish
About 30 feet left of the gully there is a clear left-leaning dihedral with 3 bolts along the overhanging upper face and a tree at the bottom. Climb this, to anchors. It can be top-roped, but the tree might be unforgiving for a top-rope fall, so a re-direct on the top bolt can be nice to protect against the swing. | 11m, 3 | Mont Rigaud | ||
5.8 | ★ King of the Road
Roadside Left, first from left. FA: John Martin, 2001 | 11m, 4 | Banff |