Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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8A+ | |||||||||
8A+ | ★★★ Sunshine | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Mon 24th Jul 2017 | |||||
Another super good one!
Bodytention, crimps, a funny kneebar and a dynamic finish.
My first 8a+ FB!
So psyched
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8A 8A+ | ★★★ Sunshine (Knight Rider Hoyre) | Lofoten | Thu 1st Aug 2013 | ||||||
Nicht sehr schwer für den Grad.
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8A 8A+ | ★★★ Sunshine | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 14th Aug 2016 | |||||
aka Night Rider Hoyre. 7C+/8A in my opinion. Certainly not 8A+...great line though.
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8A | |||||||||
8A | ★★★ Monster Orginal | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 21st Jul 2017 | |||||
Such a classic!
Beautiful ramp!
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8A | ★★★ Monster Variation | Lofoten | Mon 24th Jul 2017 | ||||||
The direct way up, not as natural movements as the original
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8A | ★ Tangsprell | Lofoten | ★ Good | Thu 27th Jul 2017 | |||||
Hard one move Problem on sharp crimps!
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8A | ★★★ Monster Orginal (Monster Original) | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 28th Aug 2016 | |||||
1h. 8A seems okay. Benchmark for Lofoten. Felt harder than Sunshine. I am a little more confident now about the grade of my FA Blue Skies.
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7C | |||||||||
7C | ★★★ Tare Baby | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 27th Jul 2017 | |||||
Such a good one-very nice technical Boulder with a toehook ,crimps and a hard mantle on a Sloper in the end-so beautiful next to the sea!
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7C | ★★★ Sea gold | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 14th Aug 2016 | |||||
7C | ★★★ Tare Baby | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 14th Aug 2016 | |||||
Straight forward pulling on crimps.
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7B+ | |||||||||
7B+ | ★ Nameless problem #14 (Nameless 2) | Lofoten | ★ Good | Thu 24th Aug 2017 | |||||
Short and powerful "almost campus move"
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9- | |||||||||
9- | ★★★ Minnerisset - with Aniek | 28m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 20th Oct 2020 | ||||
30m of surprisingly good hand jams split by 2 distinct crux sections. Had no business being up there, just dabbled while the strong kid rested. All moves go; Linking was hilariously heavy. Fun to touch real climbing
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7B | |||||||||
7B | ★★★ El Integral | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Wed 26th Jul 2017 | |||||
Nice edge
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7A 7B | Nameless problem #15 (Nameless 3) | Lofoten | Average | Thu 24th Aug 2017 | |||||
Freaky Hellkooking
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7B | ★★★ El Integral | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 28th Aug 2016 | |||||
Looks easier than it climbs! Very nice block. The rock actually looks and feels like Fontainebleau!
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7B | ★★ Abu Garcia | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Aug 2016 | |||||
7A+ | |||||||||
7A+ | ★★ Flour Power | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Thu 20th Jul 2017 | |||||
7A+ | ★★★ Marinejegeren | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Wed 15th Jul 2015 | |||||
sablar vad bra
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7A+ | ★★ Presten roof short version | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Wed 13th Aug 2014 | |||||
pumpig och skojig. Rep 10/7-15, bättre i år! Högkvalitativ boulder på perfekt sten. På gränsen till trestjärnig
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7A+ | ★ Røde risset | Lofoten | ★ Good | Fri 15th Oct 2021 | |||||
8+ | |||||||||
8+ | ★★★ Butter Arms - with Jon Shen | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 7th Sep 2019 | |||||
First hard trad line. Thanks Jon for the placements and the two day support session.
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8+ | ★★★ Butter Arms | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 26th Jul 2020 | |||||
Yeeew. 5th lead go. Eline cruised it on her first go of the day.
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7A | |||||||||
7A | ★ Moon Wall | Lofoten | ★ Good | Thu 20th Jul 2017 | |||||
7A | ★ Mannen fra S.O.G.N. | Lofoten | ★ Good | Thu 20th Jul 2017 | |||||
7A | ★★ Roof reach right | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Mon 24th Jul 2017 | |||||
7A | ★★ Master Blaster variant | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Mon 29th Aug 2016 | |||||
Master Blaster Right. Significantly easier than Master Blaster.
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7A | ★★★ Morstadeggen | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 13th Aug 2016 | |||||
Very nice lowball.
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7A | ★★ Alkemisti | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Fri 12th Aug 2016 | |||||
7A | ★ Geitviktaket (Nameless) | Lofoten | ★ Good | Thu 9th Jul 2015 | |||||
Calles 7b samma kväll, namn?
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7A | ★ Rabbadab | Lofoten | ★ Good | Sat 4th Jul 2015 | |||||
vass men fin
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7A | ★ Lave taket | Lofoten | Thu 30th Jul 2020 | ||||||
Don’t think this is 7a?
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7A Easy | ★★ Master Blaster variant | Lofoten | Sat 9th Sep 2023 | ||||||
7b+ | |||||||||
7b+ | ★★ Revenge of the Niña | Lofoten | Thu 9th Jul 2015 | ||||||
6C+ | |||||||||
6C+ | ★★ Roof reach | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Mon 24th Jul 2017 | |||||
Nice dyno
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6C+ | ★★ Roof reach | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Thu 15th Aug 2019 | |||||
6C+ | ★★ Roof reach | Lofoten | ★ Good | Thu 7th Aug 2014 | |||||
2nd go. blöt dag...
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6C+ | Pearly Gates | Lofoten | Sat 22nd May 2021 | ||||||
7b+ | |||||||||
7b+ | ★★ Revenge of the Niña | Lofoten | Thu 9th Jul 2015 | ||||||
8 | |||||||||
8 | ★★★ Stålormsrisset - with Karantene livet | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Sun 4th Jul 2021 | |||||
Super nice steep climbing with cool movement. Spent 4 rope solo sessions working it. Top 2/3 is fine but initial sequence of moves to establish in the flared jam is right at my limit. Taller friends can skip this sequence & just jam. Need be stronger to make plugging gear at the start feel more secure (the pro is good, the climber is weak).
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6C | |||||||||
6C | ★★ Taktraversen | Lofoten | Thu 7th Aug 2014 | ||||||
pumpy traverse with a somewhat tricky topout
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6C | ★★ Taktraversen | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Thu 6th Aug 2020 | |||||
6C | ★★ Nameless roof | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Thu 19th Aug 2021 | |||||
First 6c flash
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6C | ★ Giljotinen høyre | Lofoten | ★ Good | Fri 17th Sep 2021 | |||||
6C | ★ Morstadstrekket | Lofoten | ★ Good | Mon 25th Jul 2022 | |||||
Maybe a bit soft for the grade
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6C | ★ Lofotsommer | Lofoten | ★ Good | Thu 28th Jul 2022 | |||||
Video of me doing the boulder: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9ApRkS12YU&ab_channel=Lovricsports
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6C | ★★ Taktraversen | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Thu 28th Jul 2022 | |||||
Video of my Beta, there are diffrent betas on the mantle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9ApRkS12YU&ab_channel=Lovricsports
Holds are nice jugs, very hard mantle in the end. |
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8- | |||||||||
8- | ★★★ Huggormen - with Sara M. | 30m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 14th Oct 2021 | ||||
Eventually figured out midget beta for the crux after multiple sessions. Not fast enough thou before winter hit. Favourite line at the cliff!
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6B+ | |||||||||
6B+ | ★★★ Morstadbaugen | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Thu 20th Jul 2017 | |||||
6B+ | Hägringen | Lofoten | Sat 4th Jul 2015 | ||||||
6B+ | Wegges vegg | Lofoten | Thu 30th Jul 2020 | ||||||
6B+ | Jockes vegg | Lofoten | Thu 30th Jul 2020 | ||||||
7a+ | |||||||||
7a+ | ★★ Svinluggen | 30m | Lofoten | Mon 31st Jul 2023 | |||||
8- | |||||||||
8- | ★★★ Lofoten reality - with Pat | 160m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 30th Jul 2023 | ||||
Surprised by how good the other pitches were. One of Lofoten´s best. #4 handy for both roof pitches
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6B | |||||||||
6B | Doffen | Lofoten | Mon 24th Jun 2019 | ||||||
6B | Friends på turné | Lofoten | Sun 22nd Nov 2020 | ||||||
6B | Flakeggen | Lofoten | Fri 17th Sep 2021 | ||||||
6B | ★ Han är bara lat | Lofoten | Fri 29th Oct 2021 | ||||||
6B | ★ Han är bara lat | Lofoten | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Sep 2022 | |||||
6B | ★ Han är bara lat | Lofoten | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Sep 2022 | |||||
7+ | |||||||||
7+ | ★★★ Ormen Lange | 60m | Lofoten | Fri 30th Aug 2019 | |||||
7+ | ★★★ Den Siste Sommeren - with Alexander | 130m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 23rd Jun 2021 | ||||
Seemed like the appropriate time to finally tick this. Super nice crack climbing. Pitch 2 is mega with a couple of really cool boulder problems. Protects well. Carried a 0.2 & triples in 0.3-0.4 but didn´t place them.
Standard Lofoten rack works fine.
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7+ | ★★★ Ormen Lange - with Alexander | 60m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Wed 18th Aug 2021 | ||||
Nice steep route. Pulled on gear through P2. First bolted anchor is junk but it´s easy to build a stance directly under the 7+ pitch. Rest of the anchors are in good condition (A 70m gets you to the ground from P2)
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6A+ | |||||||||
6A+ | Ny dihedral | Lofoten | Mon 12th Jul 2021 | ||||||
6A+ | Runde Svaet | Lofoten | Mon 12th Jul 2021 | ||||||
6A+ | ★★ Epic Split | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Thu 19th Aug 2021 | |||||
7+/8- | |||||||||
7+/8- | ★★★ La Vida Joika - with Pat | 100m, 10 | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th Jul 2023 | ||||
First 2 pitches were great, it was nice saving #4s for second half of the OW. The bolted last pitch was a bit gross. Recommend skipping that & rapping from P2
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7+ | |||||||||
7+ | ★★★ Reisen | 440m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 16th Aug 2019 | ||||
6A | |||||||||
6A | ★★ Fancypants | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Thu 20th Jul 2017 | |||||
7B 6A | Nameless problem #12 (Nameless) | Lofoten | Average | Wed 26th Jul 2017 | |||||
Powerful lock up of the right arm, you have to hit the crimp perfectly
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6A | Gråeggen - with Fanny | Lofoten | Thu 28th May 2020 | ||||||
6A | ★ Fingeravtrykk - with Fanny | Lofoten | Thu 28th May 2020 | ||||||
6A | ★ Øverhengende veggen - with Fanny | Lofoten | ★ Good | Thu 28th May 2020 | |||||
6A | ★ Meyers gamasjer - with Fanny | Lofoten | Thu 28th May 2020 | ||||||
6A | Veggegg - with Fanny | Lofoten | Thu 28th May 2020 | ||||||
6A | ★ Manteleggen - with Fanny | Lofoten | Thu 28th May 2020 | ||||||
6A | ★★ Prestentraversen - with Fanny | Lofoten | ★★★ Classic | Thu 28th May 2020 | |||||
6A | ★ Skrårisset | Lofoten | ★ Good | Thu 7th Aug 2014 | |||||
6A | ★ Lave traversen | Lofoten | ★ Good | Thu 30th Jul 2020 | |||||
6A | ★ Skrårisset | Lofoten | Thu 6th Aug 2020 | ||||||
6A | Triple Cracks | Lofoten | Sat 22nd May 2021 | ||||||
6A | Homerun | Lofoten | Wed 9th Jun 2021 | ||||||
6A | ★★★ Tao (Tao-Te) - with Kjetil | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Sat 21st Aug 2021 | |||||
Fun afternoons scrambling (even if the quality drops off a bit in the second half)
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6A | ★ Gårdsplasstraversen | Lofoten | ★ Good | Sat 21st Aug 2021 | |||||
6A | Gråeggen | Lofoten | Mon 16th Aug 2021 | ||||||
6A | Nameless problem #3 | Lofoten | Thu 7th Oct 2021 | ||||||
6A | Thor försökte | Lofoten | Fri 29th Oct 2021 | ||||||
6A | Thor försökte | Lofoten | Sat 3rd Sep 2022 | ||||||
7 R - X | |||||||||
7 |
★★★ Storpillaren
- with
Håvard Indrevik
1
5
45m
2
6-
30m
3
7-
40m
4
7
40m
5
6
20m
6
7-
35m
7
6+
20m
8
6-
40m
9
5
55m
10
5
50m
11
4
45m
12
4
50m
13
3
40m
14
6-
30m
15
5
35m
16
45m
| 620m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 30th Jul 2020 | ||||
7 R - X | ★★★ Storpillaren - with Ada, Ingrid V | 620m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 15th Aug 2021 | ||||
It was hard. Suggested rack was a 0.1 micro cam, doubles in black totem to #3 plus a #4. Could get away with less, but was happy to have them all.
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7 7 R - X | ★★★ Storpillaren - with Håvard Sæppele | 620m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 22nd Jun 2022 | ||||
7 | |||||||||
7 | ★★★ Vårkåt | 130m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 14th Aug 2015 | ||||
7 | ★★★ Dosethrisset | 15m | Lofoten | Fri 27th Jul 2012 | |||||
Got it on the third go
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7 | ★★★ Vårkåt | 130m | Lofoten | Sun 29th Jul 2012 | |||||
7 | ★★★ Dosethrisset | 15m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 27th Jul 2017 | ||||
7 |
★★★ Silmarillion
2
5
10m
lead by
Torbjørn Solheim
4
6+
45m
lead by
Torbjørn Solheim
6
3
15m
lead by
Torbjørn Solheim
| 170m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 24th Aug 2011 | ||||
Absolutely awesome route. IMO the crux is pitch 3, it's quite sustained and devious. Pitch 5 is steep but relatively straightforward if you're used to steep climbing.
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7 | ★★★ Vestpillaren original avslutning (Original avslutning) - with Rune | 160m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 11th Jun 2019 | ||||
The leaning groove pitch would be a crag classic anywhere in the world. Engaging stemming with all of Presten below your feet. Epic!!
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7 | ★★★ Snickar glädje - with Bogi | 15m | Lofoten | Tue 2nd Aug 1994 | |||||
Thought I made a first ascent, but it was done!
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7 R | |||||||||
7 7 R | ★★★ Korstoget - with Fanny, Ingrid V | 390m, 3 | Lofoten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 23rd Jul 2019 | ||||
Some great climbing with one of Presten´s best pitches down low (P3). The runout pitches arn´t so bad. After the 6+ (P7), quality drops off quickly. Because of this, it´s quite common to traverse at Storhylla & finish up other lines
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7 | |||||||||
7 | ★★★ Silmarillion - with Jon Shen | 170m | Lofoten | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 12th Aug 2019 | ||||
7 R | |||||||||
7 7 R | ★★★ The Codfather - with Jon Shen | 500m | Lofoten | Mon 12th Aug 2019 |