Routes in Austvågøy

Both of the guidebook options are not advisable.

Instead, head in the direction of Vågakallen via a faint trial from the summit block (pictured), when this ends, a short move to regain the ridge is needed (pictured). Ignore the first rapp station you pass.

Continue along the ridge then scramble back down (pictured). From here, traverse across the hanging valley (South-East, ~50m) to the base of a short & steep gully. Go up here. This leads to a wide open area. Don't be tempted to descend any gullies.

Head straight up the first large grassy gully towards the ridge line (North). Continue along this ridge for another 150/200m (towards Vågakallen) where the ridge from Pillaren ends & the rapp station is located (pictured). Slings, 10m.

You can nearly taste the beers at Klatre now. Continue in the direction of Vågakallen via a short ascent back up the opposing ridgeline. From this summit, a clear trial appears which leads down to grassy slopes & the Vågakallen hiking trail. Yay.

Follow path (East) with some exposed scrambling off back of Presten, and down to saddle (68.1800305, 14.2286126). Continue straight up the other side of the saddle, following the ridegline roughly South before joining main hiking track near Festvåg summit (allow 1-2 hours).

Gear beta: Standard Lofoten rack plus a #4

1. A short wide crack starts things off (crux) from here it’s easy slabs to a belay on grassy ledge

2. Trend right then up a thin finger crack. Continue up & over small bulge to a small stance

3. Layback up & left to a good ledge

4. Follow the crack system up then slightly right

5. More of the same

6. More easy climbing. Trend right when the large slab becomes visible.

7. Climb the left of the 2 cracks on the arête with tricky moves initially over the bulge into easier climbing in the RF corner. From here there’s a short wide section before the easy climbing returns.

8. Continue up to the big grassy ledge below the final summit block

9. Excellent pitch in a RF corner

10. Climb the hand crack then trend right to a decent stance.

11. Straight forward climbing leads to just below the summit. It’s another 10m up the ramp then right to the summit slab from here (N3)

Images here:

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Tackles obvious cracks and corners left of the cave.

1. Handcrack on left wall. It appears this pitch has been previously climbed. Belay at base of right trending hand crack.

2. Climb the sustained hand crack, pulling through the roof then up slabs to a good stance.

3. Trend right towards, then up the dihedral. It´s fingers then hands before the final slab to the top. Tree belay.

Steep climbing to the left of Ole Johnny tribute.

P1/P2 can easily be linked & helps speed things up on busy summer days. It´s also common to climb right at P5 to the abseil line, as the final pitches are not of the same quality & it´s common for the rope to get snagged on the flake above

A direct route straight up the middle of Presten linking together some excellent pitches from 4 classic routes. Scenic & well protected, it´s a particularly great outing for busy days on the Priest.

1. As for Vestpillaren.

2. As for Vestpillaren.

3. Take the slanting left corner up to a small ledge (As for Variasjon til en variasjon).

4. The rarely climbed second pitch of Variasjon til en variasjon trends gently left via easy slabs up to Storhylla. Build the belay at the black section of rock to your left.

5. Climb up the black section of rock to the base of the right facing groove (The Klokkeren corner system)

6. As for Klokkeren.

7. As for Klokkeren.

8. As for Klokkeren, building your belay after passing the fixed piton under the roof.

9. Head out left under the roof, pulling through an overhang. Continue following easier flakes & cracks to a ledge below the slanting groove pitch.

10. As for Vestpillaren original avslutning.

11. As for Vestpillaren original avslutning.

Take standard Lofoten rack plus some micro cams

The original line up to the fixed Storhylla belay

Popular because of the Top50 tag in the guidebook, this is a winding, disjointed line that makes communicating with your partner difficult. Will possibly feel like a hard 4+ if your not used to jamming.

Ant Line on Maurpillaren, Gollum on Gandalf wall or many of the routes at Paradiset or Rørvika Lower Wall Right make for more enjoyable introductions to Lofoten climbing.

Reputation for some nice, but heavily sandbagged climbing (N8-) 2 x 60m ropes needed for the rapp.

The original finish goes left from the slanting corner ledge.

1. A traverse pitch. Head up the face then out left under the overhang. Follow the crack system from here up to a ledge. Route finding and pro on this pitch take some time to figure out.

2. Easier climbing follows the crack system up the right side of the belay to a ledge below the RF corner.

3. Finger jam and stem your way up the slanting groove to a good ledge. Extra small to medium wires handy.

4. Up & over a tricky bulge. Climb easier thin cracks until it´s possible to escape left. Pick a belay spot then scramble to the top.

Start 1-2 meters left of the arete in the black/grey rock. Good protection. First belay on a small ledge beside the big roof over Lys og skygge's first pitch.

Left trending finger crack traverse with a cruxy finish.

Mixed route that rejoins Ninjarisset at the top

The first route up the West wall ascends the pillar left of the central grass line. The hard crux moves can be done at 7- A1.

Some images here-

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Breaks right from Gorilla into a OW finish. Big cam nice to have (#4)

Located on the North face of Lille Vågakallen. Line starts up the right hand side of the prominant black streak.

Descend via 3 rapps

The SE ridge of Geitgaljartind. Some images here-

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Short, mossy & with a bonus loose flake

An excellent finger jamming crack & one of the test piece N7s in Lofoten

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Starts 20m up from the Pizatyven descent. Up the open corner, then straight through the 45 deg roof.

There appears to be a couple of errors in the guidebook topo and description (P2, P3, P5). The pitch description below is what made sense to us with a 60m rope.

1. Start in the crack to the left of the corner, when this ends trend right up to a good ledge

2. Cracks, then face climbing leads to a small ledge

3. Up then slightly right before continuing up to top of the flake

4. Head out left in the horizontal crack then straight up a glorious hand crack

5. Wander up then right to the base of corner. Venture up the jungle crack to a ledge. Maybe N5+ if cleaned? Felt like sweaty 6+

6. Head right then up cracks to a large belay ledge

7. Up the finger crack, trend slightly left then up the corner to ledge below the final roof pitch

8. Up then traverse left under the roof