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Routes in Austvågøy for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 166 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Brenna Boulder A
5B Sidestep Boulder
5B Wall of Shame Boulder
Brenna Boulder B
5B Starthjelp Boulder
Brenna Boulder C
5 Lazy Feather Boulder
Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders La Perla
5B Front Crack
Boulder
Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders Stem Bastensen Gilette
5 På go vei
Boulder
Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders Stem Bastensen Fotogenetikk
5 Nameless #39
Boulder
Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders Stem Bastensen Blackstar
5 Winter hours
Boulder
5 Suckers in Spain
Boulder
Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders Stem Bastensen White block
5 Runde tak
Boulder
5 Forsvaret
Boulder
Lyngvær Merradalen
6+ Kneeling Jesus
1 5-
2 6+
3 6+

FA: Gustaf Leijonhovud, Jens Åstrøm & Nils.J Vagner, 2003

Trad 95m, 3
6+ Kom igjen for Helvete

FA: Jonas Tetlie & Kurt Kristiansen, 2000

Trad 8
Lyngvær White Slab
6 At dawn, we ride
1 6- 30m
2 6 25m
3 6 50m
4 4+ 50m
5 5- 30m

A line tackling slabs and cracks up the left arete. A nice introduction to Lofoten rock offering good jamming and slab climbing, large belay ledges & with the exception of P1, bolted belays.

The route can be rapped with 2 x 60m ropes.

  1. Climb the crack system on the arete to a large slanting ledge under the roof. 30m

  2. Pull up over the roof, following the crack until it runs out. Traverse right 2m, then up a short slab on crimps to a double bolt belay on another large ledge. 25m

  3. Traverse right then over a bulge, following this crack until it disappears. From here, continue up 5m of slab to the next crack system which leads to another bolted belay on a small ledge. 50m

  4. Easier climbing straight up, then right out onto arete & up to the next large ledge & bolted belay. 50m

  5. Follow cracks and slabs up and slightly left to bolted belay at a small stance. 30m

FA: Vegard With Stennes, Charlie Long & Philip Curry

Trad 190m, 5
Rørvika Upper Wall
6 BB King was Wrong (the Thrill isn't Gone)
Trad
6 Fugledansen
Trad
Pianokrakken The boulders Donkey Kong Boulder A
5B Hjørnet
Boulder
5B Fake it Til You Make It
Boulder
Pianokrakken Sørfjellet
6 Tyngre enn du tror
1 4+
2 4
3 6
4 5+
Trad 4
Pianokrakken Housewives
6+ Home boy
Trad
Pianokrakken Maurpillaren
6 Kjærlighetens kjøtere

FA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Arild Meyer, 1996

Trad
6+ Ingen sommerferie
1 5- 25m
2 6- 25m
3 6 12m
4 6+ 10m

FA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Neils Poulsen, 1995

Trad 72m, 4
6 Hankatten
Trad
6 Pizzatyven
1 5- 30m
2 5- 25m
3 6 12m
4 5 15m
5 5+ 18m

FA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Thorbjørn Enevold, 1995

Trad 100m, 5
6+ Mjölkmustasch

FA: Fredrik Rapp, 2007

Trad
Pianokrakken West Face
6+ Nøttebus

FA: krister jonsson & Hanna Falkestrøm, 1996

Trad 3
6 Svaclownen

FA: Fredrik Rapp & Martin Jakonsson

Trad 2
6 Pianogolvet

FA: Fredrik Rapp & Bobo Gustavsson, 2009

Trad
6 Pianisten
1 6 35m
2 4+ 20m
3 6 35m
4 2 20m

FA: Kjell Skog, 1979

Trad 110m, 4
Pianokrakken South Face
6+ Kangshungrisset
Trad
6 Sorte Orm
Trad
6 Kongens hjørne
Trad
Pianokrakken Svenskeveggen
6 Frøken Sverige
Trad 14m
6+ Jammerfest

The roof crack. Big cam needed.

FA: Jimmy Halvardsson, 1990

Trad
Djupfjord The boulders Rock Shapes Boulder A
5B Fill out
Boulder
Djupfjord Bare blåbær
6+ Bare blåveis
1 6
2 6+
3 5-
4 4
5 4
  1. 35m

  2. 46m

  3. 40m

  4. 45m

  5. 30m

FA: Jonas Dahlstrup & et al, 2008

Trad 200m, 5
6 Thiras Mirith
1 4
2 6
3 6
4 4+
  1. 26m

  2. 44m

  3. 50m

  4. 45m

FA: Odd-Roar Wilk & et al, 1993

Trad 170m, 4
6 Triumfbuen
1 4-
2 5-
3 6
4 5-
5 5
6 5+
7 3
  1. 40m

  2. 45m

  3. 55m

  4. 18m

  5. 35m

  6. 55m

  7. 20m

FA: Leif Magnussen, Jørgen Aamont, Stein Moller & Lena Dahl, 2008

Trad 270m, 7
Djupfjord Pillaren (Point 713m)
6+ Goodbye High School
1 4
2 5+
3 5
4 6+
5 5+
6 5-
7 5+
8 6+
9 6
10 6-
11 4
12 5+
13 5+
14 5+

FA: Jiri Svihalek & Lukas Marecek, 2009

Trad 14
6 Elgfesten

FA: Odd-Roar Wilk & Niels Poulsen, 1992

Trad 7
6+ Danske ruta
Trad
Djupfjord Budalstinden
6+ Budalspillaren
1 6+
2 6+
3 6
4 5+
5 6
6 3

Reputation for some nice, but heavily sandbagged climbing. 2 x 60m ropes needed for the rapp.

FA: Robert Caspersen & Frøydis Ravlo, 2002

Trad 140m, 6
6+ Skvis
1 6+
2 6
3 6
4 4+
5 4+

FA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Jan Helge, 2002

Trad 140m, 5
6+ Kjære frøken Johansson

FA: Arild Meyer & Odd-Roar Wiik, 1995

Trad 4
Djupfjord Two Faces Buttress
6 Mandragora
1 4 25m
2 6 55m
Trad 80m, 2
6 Dr. Jekyll

Mixed slab climbing. Rumour has know one really knows who´s Dr jekyll & who´s Mr Hyde..

FA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Trond Solberg, 1999

Trad 55m
6+ Mr Hyde
1 6 35m
2 6+ 35m

FA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Trond Solberg, 1999

Trad 70m, 2
Djupfjord Sjøsvaet
6 Solens sønner
1 5+ 35m
2 6 50m
3 5 30m
4 5 30m

A mixed route characterised by safe but runout slab climbing

FA: Ed Webster & Odd-Roar Wiik, 1993

Mixed trad 150m, 6
6 Månens døtre
1 6- 24m
2 5+ 30m
3 5+ 30m
4 6 55m

FA: Ed Webster & Johan Sandberg, 1993

Mixed trad 140m, 4, 5
Presten Corridor boulders Boulder C
5 Easy Peasy Boulder
Presten Presten boulders Boulder A
5 Stive støvler Boulder
5 Kjell Oves vegg Boulder
Presten Presten boulders Boulder C
5 Fiskerisset Boulder
Presten Presten boulders Boulder L
5 Skjult sprekk Boulder
Presten Presten boulders Boulder N
5 Tin foil Boulder
5 Baking paper Boulder
Presten Presten
6 Ypperstepresten
1 6- 45m
2 5 42m
3 6 30m
4 5- 45m
5 3- 60m

This route can easily be done in 3 pitches to storhylla by stretching the first belay to a stance close to the roof (55m) and pitch 2 until one of the good ledges above the roof (45/50m). This avoids rope drag and bad communication for the roof pitch (P2).

Protection is good (heart in the book dates back to before micro cams/totems)

FA: Bengt Flygel Nilsfors & Aart Verhage, 1992

Trad 220m, 5
6 Vestpillaren
1 5+ 45m
2 6- 40m
3 6 45m
4 5- 25m
5 4 30m
6 6- 45m
7 6 45m
8 5+ 40m
9 6 45m
10 4+ 30m
11 5 35m
12 3 55m

Classic line heading up the full height of Presten. Starts on right side of main face, about 20m left of a steep choked gully. Abseil retreat possible with two ropes without leaving gear up to end of pitch 4.

  1. Up centre of three shallow corners, then traverse left to crack which leads to a small ledge with a chain belay to the right.

  2. Follow groove then up to flake/block on the left. Continue into a thin finger-crack and continuation to bolt/chain belay.

  3. Up the narrow groove then left up a diagonal ramp to bolt/chain belay.

  4. Short wall and groove then up to bolt/chain belay. This pitch can be linked into the following with careful rope management.

  5. Move up to right of large block and follow cracks to belay on top of block.

  6. Up thin cracks/grooves to a good ledge, then traverse 20m left (some rope drag and loose rock) to belay on a higher ledge in base of groove.

  7. Follow groove and flake until it becomes a thin crack, then step left into a parallel crack system. Continue up into a left-facing groove to belay above a bulge in the corner.

  8. Continue up the groove then right into slabby groove. Belay on either of two ledges at the base of the 'Slanting Corner'.

  9. The 'Slanting Corner'. Up the clean groove to tiny ledge, then trend left before heading right (can be climbed direct, but harder). Below up right at large block.

  10. Up left across ledges to a large loose flake jammed in a groove. Climb carefully up past the flake, then continue left up a chimney groove and below at its top, below open groove.

  11. Follow the open groove up and right to its top, then move down and right for several metres, before traversing horizontally right. Make delicate moves around right into the grassy exit gully.

  12. Scramble up grassy gully to top.

FA: Arild Meyer & Finn Tore Bjørnstad, 1980

Trad 480m, 12
6+ Variasjon til en variasjon

Take the crack to the left from the pitch 2 Vestpillaren anchor. It´s nice, well protected climbing that´s handy for passing slower parties.

FA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Niels Poulsen, 1992

Trad 45m
6+ Himmelen kan vente
1 4+ 25m
2 6+ 50m
3 3+ 30m
4 6- 40m
5 5- 40m
6 6+ 35m
7 6+ 30m
8 6+ 35m
9 6+ 25m
Trad 310m, 9
Presten Harley Davidson Wall
6 Massor av kubik Trad
6 Easy Rider and the Fat Boy Trad
Gandalf Gandalf boulders Boulder A
5B Fotball Boulder
5 Riss Boulder
Gandalf Gandalf Main
6 Tynne ting Trad 35m
6+ Nøttolfs fristelse
1 6+ 25m
2 6 20m
Trad 45m, 2
6+ Nøtteliten
1 6+ 25m
2 5 45m
3 6- 25m
Trad 95m, 3
6 Gamle rev
1 6 45m
2 6 60m

FA: Ed Webster & Thorbjørn Enevold, 1993

Trad 110m, 2
6 Tromsø ekspressen
1 6 40m
2 6 30m
3 5 25m

FA: Håvard Nesheim & Sjur Nesheim, 1979

Trad 95m, 3
6+ Gandalf original avslutning

The original finish to Gandalf goes left of eagles nest (the P2 belay) up the burly crack. Big cam nice.

Trad 25m
6 Gandalf and Rose

A straight line using 2 classic routes. Start this combination climbing the 1st pitch on Gandalf. Thereafter, climb the 2nd and 3rd pitch of Guns and Roses.

Trad 100m, 3
6+ Krympefesten
1 6 40m
2 6+ 25m
3 6- 35m
Trad 100m, 3
6 Rolling Stone
1 5+ 45m
2 6 35m
3 5 15m
Trad 95m, 3
6 AID:A3 Souhalia Andrawes
1 A2 20m
2 A3 15m
3 A2 20m
4 6 25m
Aid 80m, 4
Gandalf Gandalf Upper
6 Grus i øgat Trad 15m
Festvåg Lille Festvåg
6+ Månedans
1 6- 60m
2 6+ 35m

Usually done in 2 pitches (P1/2 linked as close to the upper dihedral as your rope will stretch)

FA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Ed Webster, 1993

Trad 95m, 2
6 Myror i ballorn

FA: Rick McGregor, 2000

Trad 20m
6+ Shine a Light
1 5
2 6+
3 6
4 6

FA: Andrew Norton & Klaus von Aynaten, 2004

Trad 110m, 4
6+ Blod eller gull
1 6- 55m
2 6+ 40m

FA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Johan Sandberg, 1992

Trad 95m, 2
6+ Måken Sven
1 3+
2 6+

FA: Aina Konradsen & Stein Stenkjær, 1999

Trad 70m, 2
Festvåg Store Festvåg
6+ Skomaker Grus

FA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Thorbjørn Enevold, 1990

Trad 4
6 Johan Boyer
1 5+ 40m
2 6 35m

FA: Thorbjørn Enevold, Morten & Trond Solberg, 1992

Trad 75m, 2
6+ Vikingjenta

FA: Ed Webster & Maria Hannus, 1993

Trad 75m
6 Den siste viking
1 5 20m
2 6 45m
3 5 25m

Pitch 2 is nice but sandbagged (may not be the original line?)

FA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Lutta Fagerli, 1992

Trad 90m, 3
6 Luksusdyret
1 5 25m
2 6 40m
3 5 25m
Trad 90m, 3
6 Lundeklubben
1 6- 35m
2 6 35m
3 5+ 20m

FA: Arild Meyer, 1992

Trad 90m, 3
6 Straight Albatross
1 5+ 20m
2 6 45m
3 6- 25m

FA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Lutta Fagerli, 1992

Trad 90m, 3
6 Wandering Albatross
1 6- 35m
2 6 35m
3 6- 25m

FA: Ed Webster & Tormod Klepper, 1993

Trad 95m, 3
6+ Trollmannens uløselige mysterium

The direct OW finish to Four pitch route.

FA: Odd-Roar Wilk & Johan Sandberg, 1996

Trad 20m
6+ Jammen, Jammen
1 6+
2 5
Trad
Festvåg Outlying
6+ Smulpaj Trad
Nipen Senior veggen
6 Still hard Trad
Nipen Junior veggen
FR:6b Vedvarande Sport
Henningsvær Waterfront
5B Fox face Boulder
The Coast The boulders Geitvikneset Boulder A
5B Seymour butz Boulder
5B Lee keybum Boulder
The Coast The boulders Geitvikneset Boulder C
5B Høyrerisset Boulder
The Coast Geitvika
6+ Landstrykere
1 5+
2 6
3 6+
4 4+
  1. Straight up then right up the obvious ramp

  2. Climb thin left trending crack to it's end then traverse left to a semi hanging below on top of the pillar

  3. Hard start leads to easier climbing. Crux needs time to dry out after rain.

  4. Straight up easy slabs

FA: Mie Kastet & Odd-Roar Wiik, 2007

Trad 140m, 4
6+ Mordar Anders Trad
The Coast Time is a disaster
6 Rally English

This route starts in the right hand side of the cave on the arete below the obvious wide crack. Bring big gear (#3 to #5). The FAs recommend rapping from the first pitch (fixed gear)

  1. Climb the wide crack to a ledge. 30m

  2. Climb up from the right hand side of the ledge via a flake then LF corner before steeping right to a small ledge. 7m

  3. Grassy ramp leads up to the right and rapped from slings.

FA: Alan Goldbetter & Emily Wetzel, 2017

Trad 55m, 3

Showing 1 - 100 out of 166 routes.

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