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Summary

Towering peaks above, ocean views, fast drying granite & free camping nearby make this scenic crag a dirtbags paradise.

Description

A much loved & vibrant climbing area with great bouldering and single pitch cragging scattered across the granite cliffs & boulders of Vågakallen´s shoreline.

Much of Lofoten´s free-spirited climbing soul emerged from the walls & campgrounds here, along with a big chunk of North Norwegian climbing history. Routes established by Hans Doseth in the late 70s are still testpieces with modern gear today & if you´re thinking you bagged yourself an FA, well, prepare to be disappointed. Arild Meyer almost certainly soloed it in his boots back when the origins of NordNorsk Klatreskole were been founded here.

While Air BnB slowly snuffs out Henningsvær´s spark, the spirit of Lofoten climbing remains free, wild & vibrant in Paradiest.

Approach

From Kallebukta, walk South to the trail blocked by a chain (the old parking area). Follow this South until you reach the inlet. From here, you´ll be able to see Svenske diedret on your right and Butter arms to your left.

The inlet´s roughly central to all the climbs, which are scattered out along the coast.

(68.189155, 14.336886)

History

History timeline chart

Some of the classic lines:

Lofoten Reality, Vågarisset, Dosethrisset, Svenske Diedret, Butter Arms, Kyllingvingen, Kveldskosen, Morstadeggen, Mount Up, Campus Kalle, The Tao-Te Circuit

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Activity

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