Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Trolldalen Trolltrappen | |||||
6+ | ★★ Majskolben
FA: Jonas Jakobsen & Johan Nils Sward, 2014 | 80m, 2 | |||
AID:A2 | Hungry moose
1
A2
2
A2
FA: Jonas Dahlstrup, 2010 | 2 | |||
6+ AID:A1 | Øldarris
| 4 | |||
7 | ★★★ Trolltrappen
1
7
2
6+
FA: Jonas Dahlstrup & Erik Grunnesjø, 2007 | 80m, 2 | |||
Trolldalen Trollfestningen | |||||
AID:A0 M6 | Stop the Reactors
Described in the 2009 AAC article Lofoten, International Winter Meet, [topo here][https://aac-publications.s3.amazonaws.com/articles/aaj-12201022000-1410349367.jpg) FA: Jiri Splichal, Christophe Dumarest & Martin Klonfar, 2009 | 150m, 3 | |||
6+ AID:A1 | Swedish Highway Blues
| ||||
6- | ★★★ Fingerrisset
FA: helge stokstad & Rune Thrap-Meyer, 1982 | 50m | |||
7 | ★★★ Odins bue
1
7-
30m
2
7
25m
3
7
25m
4
7
30m
5
6+
40m
6
4
50m
One of the finest crack climbs on the islands. Starts at the base of the steep left trending arch. Approached by wandering left on the ledge after climbing P1/2 of Spurven or Colibrien. Needs time to dry, some micro wires & plenty of green/purple cams.
Some images View this post on Instagram FA: Jonas Tetlie & Andreas Christiansen, 1998 | 200m, 6 | |||
AID:A3 | Cmelák
| ||||
AID:A3 | Nemesis trollkirka
| ||||
3 | The Approach Pitch
| 70m | |||
6- | ★★ Colibrien
1
4
2
5-
3
6-
4
6-
5
3+
FA: Finn Jensen & Niels Poulsen, 1979 | 180m, 5 | |||
6+ | ★★ Spurven
1
5+
2
5
3
6+
4
5+
5
3+
FA: Arild Meyer & Kjell Skog, 1977 | 180m, 5 | |||
6- | Spurven/Colibrien
| ||||
6+ | ★★ Havørnen
1
4
2
5-
3
6+
4
6-
5
6
FA: Ed Webster & Leif Henriksen, 1998 | 170m, 6 | |||
7- | ★★★ Kingfisher
FA: Mathias Stromqvist, 2008 | 110m, 3 | |||
7- AID:A0 | After Work
| ||||
6 | High roller
| 12 | |||
Trolldalen Glåmtinden | |||||
4 | Direkte-Innsteget
| ||||
5+ | ★★ Ørneryggen
1
5
2
5+
3
3+
FA: Thorbjørn Enevold, 1993 | 100m, 3 | |||
6 | ★★ Encore
1
5+
30m
2
6
40m
3
6
30m
4
4
40m
FA: Hannu-Pekka Hyppänen & Jukka Leinonen, 2015 | 140m, 4 | |||
5+ | ★★ Ørneunge
| 3 | |||
6- | Herman Hedning
| ||||
Trolldalen | |||||
5 AID:A2 | Tranedansen
1
4
10m
2
5-
?
3
?
?
4
5 A2
?
5
?
?
Located in a corner at the top of the grassy gulley on cliff to the right of Trollfestningen. Sarts at the same height as Spurven finishes. There´s a description in the old Ed Webster guidebook; 4 skyhook moves needed on pitch 4. FA: Arild Meyer & Finn Tore Bjørnstad, 1977 | 10m, 5 | |||
6+ AID:A1 PROT:R | Til ungdommen
1
5+
35m
2
6 R
30m
3
6 A1
25m
4
6+
40m
5
5
40m
Located on the North face of Lille Vågakallen. Line starts up the right hand side of the prominant black streak. Descend via 3 rapps FA: Odd-Roar Wiik, 2008 | 170m, 5 | |||
7- | ★★ Anachronism
1
6
20m
2
7-
35m
A fully equipped route on the clean white slab at the end of Trolldalen. Approach by walking along the left hand side of the valley and around the lake. FA: Arild Meyer, 2006 | 55m, 2 | |||
Trolldalen Bertas lefser | |||||
7B | Bertas smurte lefser
| ||||
Trolldalen Cabeza | |||||
6B | Con la Cabeza
| ||||
Trolldalen Man Without Qualities | |||||
6C | Man Without Qualities
| ||||
6A | Winter's Prey
| ||||
5+ | Meat in the Room
| ||||
Trolldalen Power Slab | |||||
6C | Power Slab
| ||||
6C | Welcome to the Jungle
| ||||
6B+ | Jungle Boogie
| ||||
5+ | Torsketrappen
| ||||
Trolldalen Flying V | |||||
6A+ | Flying V
| ||||
6A | Stödkorv
| ||||
Trolldalen Sea of Crimps | |||||
6B | Sea of Crimps
| ||||
5+ | Fegspärr
| ||||
Trolldalen Railbreak | |||||
6A | Railbreak
| ||||
Trolldalen Pickin' Flowers | |||||
6A | Pickin' Flowers
| ||||
Trolldalen Waldorf & Statler | |||||
5 | Statler
| ||||
4+ | Waldorf
| ||||
Kallebukta The boulders Boulder A | |||||
7A | Unknown | ||||
7A | ★ Campus Kalle | ||||
6B+ | Hangman | ||||
6B | Freak Face | ||||
4B | Needle In The Groove | ||||
Kallebukta The boulders Boulder B | |||||
6A+ | Klippfiskveggen | ||||
6A+ | ★ Tørrfisktraversen | ||||
5+ | ★ Torsktungen | ||||
5+ | ★ Breiflabb | ||||
5+ | Diagonalen | ||||
5+ | ★ Gul snø | ||||
5 | Nokkaeläin | ||||
Kallebukta The boulders Boulder C | |||||
7A | ★★ Alkemisti | ||||
6B+ | ★ Buskblues | ||||
7C | ★ Buskjazz | ||||
Kallebukta The boulders Boulder D | |||||
5+ | ★ Nameless problem #1 | ||||
6A | Nameless problem #2 | ||||
5+ | Nameless problem #3 | ||||
5+ | King of the Scots | ||||
Kallebukta The boulders Storøya | |||||
5 | ★ Dekkerman høyre vei | ||||
4+ | ★ Dekkerman direkte | ||||
4+ | Dekkerman venstre vei | ||||
Kallebukta The boulders Boulder E | |||||
7A | ★★★ Morstadeggen | ||||
Kallebukta The boulders Boulder F | |||||
7B | ★★ Abu Garcia | ||||
6A | Jallun puheet | ||||
Kallebukta The boulders Boulder G | |||||
6C | ★ Cocktail | ||||
Kallebukta The boulders Boulder H | |||||
6C | Kantapäänkautta | ||||
6B+ | Kaksi kukkaa | ||||
6B+ | Nameless problem #1 | ||||
6A | Nameless problem #2 | ||||
5+ | Nameless problem #3 | ||||
5+ | Nameless problem #4 | ||||
Kallebukta The boulders Boulder I | |||||
6B+ | ★★ Mount up | ||||
Kallebukta The boulders Boulder J-K | |||||
7C+ | Midnight Sun | ||||
7B+ | Starter | ||||
6B+ | Alkupala | ||||
8A+ | Main Course | ||||
Kallebukta Honnikornsvaet | |||||
6 | Left-hand Crack | ||||
6 | ★★★ Puffrisset | 110m, 4 | |||
Kallebukta Cornflakesveggen | |||||
6 | Shivering Dick | ||||
7+ | ★★★ Ormen Lange
1
7-
30m
2
7+
15m
3
7-
15m
Take standard Lofoten rack plus some micro cams | 60m | |||
AID:A3 | Disco Volante | ||||
6+ AID:A3 | Von viel Hilft veil | 2 | |||
Kallebukta Apa | |||||
6+ | ★★ Gorilla
Left trending finger crack traverse with a cruxy finish. | 15m | |||
6- | ★★ Apa
Breaks right from Gorilla into a OW finish. Big cam nice to have (#4) | 15m | |||
6- | Chimp
Short, mossy & with a bonus loose flake | ||||
5+ | Lemur
The shallow flared crack furthest to the right. Almost certainly a no star choss-fest | ||||
Øvredalen Lille Vågakallen | |||||
8- | ★ Stine in wonderland
Summary from a repeat `The approach was long and uncomfortable and again and again the feet sunk into the cool swamp. The climbing guide praised the route above all & the line also looked great. The 50m Crux in particular was impressive. The unpleasant part was just the thin crack was overgrown & a lot of patience & calf power was needed to remove this onsight. The pitches that followed were brittle, slippy, or both. Whoever thinks this is pleasant, then we can happily recommend the route! The descent took over 2 hours in the steepest swamp I have ever seen. In conclusion 5-6h walking, 5 pitches of climbing & only one length was rewarding, but overgrown´ | 5 | |||
6+ AID:A2 | ★ Sweet Home Moravia | 7 | |||
Øvredalen Alkoholveggen | |||||
7 | ★★ A Wee Nip
1
7
2
6+
3
5+
| 65m, 3 | |||
6 | ★★ Återstilleren
1
6
2
6
3
4+
4
6
5
5+
6
5
7
5+
FA: Martin Jakobsson & krister jonsson, 1999 | 300m, 7 | |||
6+ | ★★ Turborg Classic
1
6+
2
6
3
6
4
5+
5
5
FA: Jonas Dahlstrop & Simon Svendsen, 2008 | 230m, 5 | |||
7 | ★★★ Doktor spirit
1
6+
2
6
3
7
4
7-
5
5+
6
5+
7
4
| 7 | |||
7- | ★★ Famous Grouse
1
6
2
6+
3
7-
4
5-
5
5+
6
5+
7
6+
8
4
FA: Andreas Christiansen & et al, 1998 | ||||
5+ | ★★ Rom and Cola
1
5
2
5+
3
2
4
5
5
3
6
5+
7
5+
8
4
FA: Arild Meyer, 1977 | 320m, 8 | |||
7 AID:A1 | Sex on the Beach | ||||
5+ | ★★ Gin Fizz
1
5+
2
5-
Right hand variation finish to Rom and Cola | 80m, 2 |