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Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Approach

Easy descent by walking South from the summit then down the gulley between Breiflogtinden / Moltbærtinden.

Routes

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Grade Route

Shared start with One Hundred Years Later on the grassy slopes above a leaning pillar. All stances are bolted.

FA: Holger Jantsch, Ole Klingeman & Eggert Keller, 1997

1 4
2 5-
3 6+
4 7+
5 6
6 6
7 6+
8 6
9 6
10 4
11 6-
12 6
13 6+
14 6+

One of the best routes out West with stacked climbing on good rock. Most bolts have been recently re-equipped.

  1. Easy scrambling up the leaning pillar.

  2. Trends gently right up middle of slab to a small ledge. Bit runout in places but safe.

  3. Some more of the same slab off the belay, passing a bolt (no hanger) to a finger crack. Gear belay (bolt there; Has no hanger).

  4. The crux of the route. 5 bolts protect a powerful sequence (can be done A0) into some technical slab work. Semi hanging belay with one bolt in a corner below the perfect splitter.

  5. Climb the splitter to a DBB (some signs of corrosion on these bolts).

  6. Traverse out right into an akward, slightly vegetated crack. Traverse left when you pass the roof via slabs with underclings to access the next crack system. Climb up this to a DBB. It may be worth splitting this pitch in 2.

  7. Continue up the crack. When this ends a bolt protects moves left into the next system & up to another DBB.

  8. Climb the remaining crack system to a DBB under the roof.

  9. Underclings right under the roof then up the corner. A low angled ramp leads up to a DBB.

  10. Easy scrambling up the corner to the base of the chimney.

  11. Chimney challenge then grassy slopes up to the clean looking flakes.

  12. Climb the flakes then scramble left to belay at the base of the large detached flake.

  13. Squirm your way up then a couple of face climbing moves to gain LF corner. Follow this up to a big ledge with a single bolt. A bit vegetated.

  14. Take the handcrack in the corner then scramble to the top.

Some images here-

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A post shared by Sofie Eriksson (@sofieteriksson)

FA: Helmut Gargitter, Simon Kehrer, Ivan Calderon, Fredrico Pisani & Fernando Rubio, 2013

FA: Svein Smelvær & Bjørn Hanche-Olsen, 1972

Description and topo available here:

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214814/Breiflogtinden-East-Face-Arctic-Odyssey

FA: D. Panov, A. Panov & A. Demirov, 2017

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