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Approach

Main carpark (68.171092, 14.214752)

Walk East 250m from the parking lot & follow the instagram crowd. Stay left on the trail for access to the Store and Lille Festvåg crags

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There´s a couple of small buttresses on the section of rock between Gandalf and Lille Festvåg with a handful of rarely climbed lines.

The West face of the Festvågtinden massif hosts several established winter climbing options up couloirs & corner systems.

This line ascends the couloir between stor and lille Festvåg and up to a false summit of Festvågtind (which is not visible from the road). Easy descent via gully of store Festvåg.

FA: Arild Meyer

This line, likely an old Arild Meyer route, ascends the West couloir. The approach involves 150m of snow and low angled ice. Descend by exiting up the ramp to the left. Once the ridge is gained traverse East (some exposed sections) to reach the Festvågtind summit. Take short screws & single rack of cams.

FA: Arild Meyer

Alternative finish to Venstre side. Begins below the striking steep corner (which is visible from the road). The first pitch traverses right then up to 2 fixed pitons. Move out right from the the fixed belay & up to the base of the frozen waterfall. From here, ascend the frozen waterfall (2 pitches).

Some images here-

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A post shared by Philip Curry (@muttaphilly)

FA: Stian Bruvoll, 30 Mar 2020

Pitch 2 alternative to Running from Wuhan. From the fixed belay, make a delicate traverse left around the arete where harder climbing with extremely poor protection leads to the base of the hanging waterfall.

This route is likely best attempted when the frozen waterfall reaches as close as possible to the couloir.

FA: Stian Bruvoll (micro trax), 30 Mar 2020

The right couloir. Sections of lower angle ice (60/70 degrees) lead to a steep snow slope finish (90 degrees).

FA: Arild Meyer

A direct finish up the open book corner system. It would appear this line has not seen an ascent.

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