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Main parking here (68.213343, 14.218042)

For the Monster Wall, park in the pullout North of Stem Bastensen. (68.221619, 14.216780)

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Boulders with ocean views on both sides of the E10. Contains several classic Lofoten problems.

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Routes

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Abalakov descent

Abalakov descent

Abalakov descent

The clean white slab above the parking. There´s currently 2 routes here with potential for more.

1 6- 30m
2 6 25m
3 6 50m
4 4+ 50m
5 5- 30m

A line tackling slabs and cracks up the left arete. A nice introduction to Lofoten rock offering good jamming and slab climbing, large belay ledges & with the exception of P1, bolted belays.

The route can be rapped with 2 x 60m ropes.

  1. Climb the crack system on the arete to a large slanting ledge under the roof.

  2. Pull up over the roof, following the crack until it runs out. Traverse right 2m, then up a short slab on crimps to a double bolt belay on another large ledge.

  3. Traverse right then over a bulge, following this crack until it disappears. From here, continue up 5m of slab to the next crack system which leads to another bolted belay on a small ledge.

  4. Easier climbing straight up, then right out onto arete & up to the next large ledge & bolted belay.

  5. Follow cracks and slabs up and slightly left to bolted belay at a small stance.

Some images here-

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A post shared by Thea Øvregard Røhme (@thearohme)

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A post shared by sigve elstad (@sigvels)

FA: Vegard With Stennes, Charlie Long & Philip Curry, 3 Oct 2019

FA: Patrick Fransson & Odd-Roar Wilk

The scrappy wall on the left. The lines here have seen few repeats

1 5-
2 6+
3 6+

FA: Gustaf Leijonhovud, Jens Åstrøm & Nils.J Vagner, 2003

FA: Jonas Tetlie & Kurt Kristiansen, 2000

The steep wall above the monster boulder currently hosts one route. To approach, hike up the creek (hard to see start of trail - listen for the water). When the creek gets to the power lines contour the small moraine to the right leads directly up to the base of lower wall. From the lower wall hike directly up through wide open small trees and a steep mossy ramp up to the wall. P1 of La Vida Joika is the obvious left facing corner above the small roof.

1 7 30m
2 7 50m
3 7+/8- 20m

La Vida Joika follows the most obvious crack system from the bottom to the top of the upper Lyngvaer wall. The route is characterized by sustained physical movement on good quality rock much steeper than typical Lofoten routes and very good protection. 2 steep trad approach pitches lead to the exposed bolted crux pitch.

  1. Technical stemming pitch, small, good gear. Bolted belay. Scramble left to base of P2

  2. The enduro pitch. Bolted belay on top of pillar (this pitch is recommended as one pitch ledge to ledge but can be split at the intermediate rap anchor, hanging belay). 2 x #4 plus a #5 & #6 are nice to have.

  3. Technical slab work up the ramp to the top of the wall. Bring micro cams (green & purple C3) for after the last bolt. Bolted belay

Rap the route with 1 60m rope in 4 rappels.

NB- Recommended not to belay higher than top of Pitch 2 as the belay on top of the pillar is amazing and the lead climber can be easily lowered back to the belay instead of belaying on top.

FA: Charlie Long & Rune Harjo Jensen, 2019

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