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Description

All day sun, easy access, good rock & several entry level routes make this the most popular crag near Henningsvær. It´s the first one in/last one out of condition each season and can stay climbable January through November.

In the summer, expect to line up for the guidebook classics.

Descent notes

A pleasant walk off (West).

There is also an abseil line which was rebolted April 2020. 2 rapps (42 & 34m). It´s not unusual for the ropes to get snagged.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1 6- 25m
2 7- 25m
1 6+ 25m
2 6 20m
1 6+ 25m
2 5 45m
3 6- 25m
1 7 40m
2 6- 45m
3 3 10m
1 6 45m
2 6 60m

FA: Ed Webster & Thorbjørn Enevold, 1993

1 6 45m
2 7 20m
3 6 40m
  1. As for Gamle rev.

  2. Variation right out on the arete. Belay on the sloping ledge when you rejoin Gamle rev.

  3. As for Gamle rev.

FA: Asgeir Larsen & Thorbjørn Enevold, 2007

1 6 40m
2 6 30m
3 5 25m

FA: Håvard Nesheim & Sjur Nesheim, 1979

1 5- 40m
2 5- 40m
3 5- 25m
  1. Starts a few metres left of Smeagul in the grassy crack & up to the black ledge where you move right over to the Gollum belay.

  2. As for Gollum.

  3. As for Gollum.

First pitch of Lost Gandalf, thereafter finish up ´Tromsø ekspressen´ final 2 pitches.

1 5+ 40m
2 5+ 40m
3 5- 25m

In the guidebook, the first pitches of Gollum and Smeagul are reveresed. Smeagul starts left of the block, going up the tricky zig zag crack.

FA: Jonas Dahlstrup & Simon Svendsen, 2008

1 5
2 5-
3 5-

Beautiful series of cracks. Very easy to protect. Comfortable belay stances and descent on foot.

In the guidebook, the first pitches of Gollum and Smeagul are reveresed. Gollum starts at the top of the block.

FA: Arild Meyer & Sjur Nesheim, 1985

1 5 40m
2 4 20m
3 5- 50m

As for Gandalf, Gollum or Lost Gandalf then move over to the base of the orange chimney (kamin)

1 5 40m
2 5- 35m
3 5- 25m

A classic & the first route to dry on the wall

FA: Arild Meyer, 1978

The original finish to Gandalf goes left of eagles nest (the P2 belay) up the burly crack. Big cam nice.

1 5 40m
2 6- 25m
3 6- 25m

One of the best lines here. Pitch 1 goes just right of Gandalf & up the corner with a tree before trending right & up the arete to a large belay ledge. Pitch 2 heads right & then up the short & steep hand crack (crux) to a ledge. The final pitch takes gradually easing finger cracks through the orange rock to the summit.

Pitch 3 image-

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FA: Thorbørn Enevold & Trul Seines, 1993

1 5
2 5-
3 5-

A nice alternative for anyone wanting to climb Gandalf with a pack

  1. As for Guns n' Roses (40m)

  2. As for Gandalf (35m)

  3. As for Gandalf (25m)

A straight line using 2 classic routes. Start this combination climbing the 1st pitch on Gandalf. Thereafter, climb the 2nd and 3rd pitch of Guns and Roses.

1 6 40m
2 6+ 25m
3 6- 35m
1 5+ 45m
2 6 35m
3 5 15m
1 6+ 45m
2 7- 40m
1 7- 40m
2 5 45m
1 7 35m
2 8- 50m
1 6+ 35m
2 8- 35m
1 A2 20m
2 A3 15m
3 A2 20m
4 6 25m

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