Nodes in Lofoten

A broken flake at the start means this route is also now significantly harder.

A broken flake at the start means this route is now significantly harder than listed in the guidebook (6a).

Image here: https://i.redd.it/lsqw8741lj431.jpg

Video beta here: https://youtu.be/egVZYH5lRvY?t=80

Beta here

Beta for the støte på crowd

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SDS

A granite sports crag emerging out from the depths of the corona times (thanks to efforts from Leknes local Håkon Nordhaug)

Slab climbing then a jug fest to the chains

Crimps & slab lead to a steeper finish on good holds

The first route put up. Flowing movement up the scoop leads to crux just belay the chains

An easy starts lures you into the darkness. A unique route in this style for Lofoten

A boulder problem start with easier climbing closer to the chains. May be tough for the grade?

Sustained climbing on unlikely, but superb featured granite.

Beta

A short slab then burly moves to establish into the dihedral. It´s engaging stemming, side pulls and jamming from here to the chains.

The hard open projekt directly through the roof. Potentially 8a?

Starts in the corner to the right of the roof. Shared lower off with Projekt 2

Located in the far right corner.

2 obvious roof cracks sit on the wall above the Theater/yoga studio

The left roof crack

The right roof crack

No access during the summer. Do not walk through the field until the land owner has cut the grass

Video beta https://youtu.be/2c1QYGLCPhg?t=71

The little information available for Lofoten ice is currently scattered all over the interwebs.. This is an attempt to consolidate that & some local knowledge. If you have more beta, please update

A bit of an oddity for Lofoten, Eggum is a world class sports crag situated in a cave on the NE tip of Vestvågøy. The majority of routes are hard & steep. You won´t find a crag in Northern Norway with this many options in the 8a & harder range.

There are at least 4 recorded winter lines around Eggum. 1 on the buttress left of the sports crag; The others just North of Bjørndalen on the walls below Middagsheia. Some potential for new lines on the North facing aspects between Eggum & Unstad.

`Follows a long chimney then through a tunnel with a big rock structure above´

Follows natural weakness left of Around the edge.

Located on buttress to the right of Around the edge. Topo and some images here

The wall left of Sector Crux. Rarely climbed.

The short wall left of the black streaked ´stinky corner´ & the main cliff. It´s deep in the cave and stays dry in most conditions.

Mixed line. Shares lower-off with Rutger Hauer.

Starts up Svart Magi before breaking left halfway & into a full body dyno

The caves classic hard line

The extension to Full belastning.

The caves classic moderate

The caves king (& hardest) line

Starts right of Aetat via a rope ladder start. Shared lower-off.

The caves classic easy line.

The direct extension to Gullfaks climbs straight up through a blank looking section of the wall.

The open project extension to Think locally.

The rightwards extension to Gullfaks.