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Routes in Lofoten for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 214 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Moksnesøya Kvalvika Oceanside
5B Nameless #4 Boulder
Moksnesøya Branntuva
6+ Sound of waves Trad 450m
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Bunesfjorden Bunessanda Ausodden Boulder A
5B Døtt hav Boulder
5B Småkryp Boulder
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Bunesfjorden Bunessanda Ausodden Boulder D
5B Nameless #12 Boulder
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Bunesfjorden Bunessanda Hidden tent
5 Corner Boulder
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Bunesfjorden Bunessanda Big Mama
5 Wrong side of the block Boulder
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Helvetestinden Main Wall
6+ AID:A3 Thirst in the clouds

An abandoned Arild Meyer line completed by a Russian team with some aid in 2009.

FA: Orujov Alex & et al, 2009

Trad 16
6+ PROT:R Ticket to Greenland

A serious line with some difficult route finding and very loose rock from pitch 5 upwards

FA: Lukas Marecek & Jiří Švihálek

Trad 12
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Helvetestinden French Pillar
6+ The Next Best Thing
1 6 60m
2 6+ 40m
3 6+ 50m
4 6+ 30m
5 5 40m
6 5 50m
7 5 50m
8 4 55m
  1. Up the corner on jugs then slabs to a grassy crack. Belay at a good stance below grassy ledges. A long pitch with some short runouts at the beginning.

  2. Out left from the grassy ledge & into the base of a left to right corner system. 5/10m of easy stuff then head out onto the arête where there´s a short sequence of hard moves. Continue until reaching a band of darker rock. Step right here to a small stance at the base of a dihedral.

  3. Steep finger jamming up the diherdral. Belay at good stance in a corner. An excellent pitch

  4. Straight up (loose) then out right where a short steep section gains the terrace.

  5. Ignore the guidebook and go straight up the clean crack to a good ledge.

  6. Rock quality deteriorates from here. There´s a comfy belay ledge 20m past the roof.

  7. More of the same to another big ledge on the corner.

  8. Og igjen..

FA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Adam Stack, 2005

Trad 380m, 8
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Helvetestinden Far Right
6+ Första approximationen direkt

The direct finish to Första approximationen

Trad 20m
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Merraflestinden
6+ AID:A1 Kor e hammaren Edvard

FA: Jonas Tetlie & Knut Storvik, 2002

Trad 14
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Marklitinden
6 AID:A1 Hungry Eyes
1 2
2 3+
3 5
4 5
5 5+
6 5
7 6
8 6-
9 6 A1
10 6
11 5+

FA: Lukas Marecek & Jiří Švihálek, 2009

Trad 400m, 11
Moksnesøya Ølkontinden
6+ It's All About the Numbers Trad
6 Looks can be Deceiving Trad
Moksnesøya Reinesvaet
6 The American Tourist Trad
6 Nonchalance Trad 8
Flakstadøya Ramberg The boulders Beach boulder
5 Not how to surf Boulder
5 In love with surfing Boulder
Flakstadøya Ramberg The boulders Skagsanden Boulder A
5 Jabbsaft Boulder
Flakstadøya Ramberg The boulders Skagsanden Boulder B
5 Nameless Boulder
Flakstadøya Ramberg The boulders Skagsanden Boulder D
5 Sis et bro Boulder
5 Nameless Boulder
Flakstadøya Ramberg
6+ Midtgardsormen Trad 4
Flakstadøya Flakstadpollen Ting & Tang
5 Medan du sov Boulder
Flakstadøya Flakstadpollen Fråste-Eggen
5 Ville vesten Boulder
Flakstadøya Flakstadpollen Langneset-Buldern
5 Nameless #25 Boulder
Flakstadøya Stortind
6 Øst pillaren Trad 8
Vestvågøy Gimsøya Gimsøymyren Crocodile Dundee
5 Flash bandicoot Boulder
Vestvågøy Smorten Game of Drones
5 Nameless Boulder
Vestvågøy Smorten Low
5 Kolmen minuutin muna Boulder
Vestvågøy Valberg Finnhamn
5B Southern Charm Boulder
Vestvågøy Justad Kartneset Excalibur
5 Nordøstryggen Boulder
Vestvågøy Stamsund
{FR} 6b Shakalaka bunker

Slab climbing then a jug fest to the chains

Sport 18m
{FR} 6b Tims drøm

The first route put up. Flowing movement up the scoop leads to crux just belay the chains

Sport 17m
{FR} 6b Corona chimney

An easy starts lures you into the darkness. A unique route in this style for Lofoten

Sport 18m
Vestvågøy Sand
5 Nameless 3 Boulder
Vestvågøy Eggum Hovedveggen
FR:6b Is this all, Sophie? Sport
FR:6b Got you fooled there...

The P2 extenstion to Is this all, Sophie?

Sport
Vestvågøy Unstad Fjollejalla
6 The outset

The left route.

Sport 35m
6 Podieplass Sport 35m
Vestvågøy Uttakleiv Syd Yttersia
5 Yttersia Boulder
Vestvågøy Uttakleiv Syd ABS
5 Dap Potentiale Boulder
Vestvågøy Uttakleiv Syd Storm music
5 Tar & feather Boulder
Vestvågøy Uttakleiv Syd Torstein´s rail
5 Nameless #8 Boulder
Vestvågøy Uttakleiv Nord Halvmånen
5 Halvmånen Boulder
Vestvågøy Uttakleiv Nord Svenneprøven
5 Svennerævva Boulder
Vestvågøy Uttakleiv Nord Vegglusen
5 Nordsva Boulder
Austvågøy Brenna Boulder A
5B Sidestep Boulder
5B Wall of Shame Boulder
Austvågøy Brenna Boulder B
5B Starthjelp Boulder
Austvågøy Brenna Boulder C
5 Lazy Feather Boulder
Austvågøy Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders La Perla
5B Front Crack
Boulder
Austvågøy Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders Stem Bastensen Gilette
5 På go vei
Boulder
Austvågøy Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders Stem Bastensen Fotogenetikk
5 Nameless #39
Boulder
Austvågøy Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders Stem Bastensen Blackstar
5 Winter hours
Boulder
5 Suckers in Spain
Boulder
Austvågøy Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders Stem Bastensen White block
5 Runde tak
Boulder
5 Forsvaret
Boulder
Austvågøy Lyngvær Merradalen
6+ Kneeling Jesus
1 5-
2 6+
3 6+

FA: Gustaf Leijonhovud, Jens Åstrøm & Nils.J Vagner, 2003

Trad 95m, 3
6+ Kom igjen for Helvete

FA: Jonas Tetlie & Kurt Kristiansen, 2000

Trad 8
Austvågøy Lyngvær White Slab
6 At dawn, we ride
1 6- 30m
2 6 25m
3 6 50m
4 4+ 50m
5 5- 30m

A line tackling slabs and cracks up the left arete. A nice introduction to Lofoten rock offering good jamming and slab climbing, large belay ledges & with the exception of P1, bolted belays.

The route can be rapped with 2 x 60m ropes.

  1. Climb the crack system on the arete to a large slanting ledge under the roof. 30m

  2. Pull up over the roof, following the crack until it runs out. Traverse right 2m, then up a short slab on crimps to a double bolt belay on another large ledge. 25m

  3. Traverse right then over a bulge, following this crack until it disappears. From here, continue up 5m of slab to the next crack system which leads to another bolted belay on a small ledge. 50m

  4. Easier climbing straight up, then right out onto arete & up to the next large ledge & bolted belay. 50m

  5. Follow cracks and slabs up and slightly left to bolted belay at a small stance. 30m

FA: Vegard With Stennes, Charlie Long & Philip Curry

Trad 190m, 5
Austvågøy Rørvika Upper Wall
6 BB King was Wrong (the Thrill isn't Gone)
Trad
6 Fugledansen
Trad
Austvågøy Pianokrakken The boulders Donkey Kong Boulder A
5B Hjørnet
Boulder
5B Fake it Til You Make It
Boulder
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Sørfjellet
6 Tyngre enn du tror
1 4+
2 4
3 6
4 5+
Trad 4
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Housewives
6+ Home boy
Trad
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Maurpillaren
6 Kjærlighetens kjøtere

FA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Arild Meyer, 1996

Trad
6+ Ingen sommerferie
1 5- 25m
2 6- 25m
3 6 12m
4 6+ 10m

FA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Neils Poulsen, 1995

Trad 72m, 4
6 Hankatten
Trad
6 Pizzatyven
1 5- 30m
2 5- 25m
3 6 12m
4 5 15m
5 5+ 18m

FA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Thorbjørn Enevold, 1995

Trad 100m, 5
6+ Mjölkmustasch

FA: Fredrik Rapp, 2007

Trad
Austvågøy Pianokrakken West Face
6+ Nøttebus

FA: krister jonsson & Hanna Falkestrøm, 1996

Trad 3
6 Svaclownen

FA: Fredrik Rapp & Martin Jakonsson

Trad 2
6 Pianogolvet

FA: Fredrik Rapp & Bobo Gustavsson, 2009

Trad
6 Pianisten
1 6 35m
2 4+ 20m
3 6 35m
4 2 20m

FA: Kjell Skog, 1979

Trad 110m, 4
Austvågøy Pianokrakken South Face
6+ Kangshungrisset
Trad
6 Sorte Orm
Trad
6 Kongens hjørne
Trad
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Svenskeveggen
6 Frøken Sverige
Trad 14m
6+ Jammerfest

The roof crack. Big cam needed.

FA: Jimmy Halvardsson, 1990

Trad
Austvågøy Djupfjord The boulders Rock Shapes Boulder A
5B Fill out
Boulder
Austvågøy Djupfjord Bare blåbær
6+ Bare blåveis
1 6
2 6+
3 5-
4 4
5 4
  1. 35m

  2. 46m

  3. 40m

  4. 45m

  5. 30m

FA: Jonas Dahlstrup & et al, 2008

Trad 200m, 5
6 Thiras Mirith
1 4
2 6
3 6
4 4+
  1. 26m

  2. 44m

  3. 50m

  4. 45m

FA: Odd-Roar Wilk & et al, 1993

Trad 170m, 4
6 Triumfbuen
1 4-
2 5-
3 6
4 5-
5 5
6 5+
7 3
  1. 40m

  2. 45m

  3. 55m

  4. 18m

  5. 35m

  6. 55m

  7. 20m

FA: Leif Magnussen, Jørgen Aamont, Stein Moller & Lena Dahl, 2008

Trad 270m, 7
Austvågøy Djupfjord Pillaren (Point 713m)
6+ Goodbye High School
1 4
2 5+
3 5
4 6+
5 5+
6 5-
7 5+
8 6+
9 6
10 6-
11 4
12 5+
13 5+
14 5+

FA: Jiri Svihalek & Lukas Marecek, 2009

Trad 14
6 Elgfesten

FA: Odd-Roar Wilk & Niels Poulsen, 1992

Trad 7
6+ Danske ruta
Trad
Austvågøy Djupfjord Budalstinden
6+ Budalspillaren
1 6+
2 6+
3 6
4 5+
5 6
6 3

Reputation for some nice, but heavily sandbagged climbing. 2 x 60m ropes needed for the rapp.

FA: Robert Caspersen & Frøydis Ravlo, 2002

Trad 140m, 6
6+ Skvis
1 6+
2 6
3 6
4 4+
5 4+

FA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Jan Helge, 2002

Trad 140m, 5
6+ Kjære frøken Johansson

FA: Arild Meyer & Odd-Roar Wiik, 1995

Trad 4
Austvågøy Djupfjord Two Faces Buttress
6 Mandragora
1 4 25m
2 6 55m
Trad 80m, 2
6 Dr. Jekyll

Mixed slab climbing. Rumour has know one really knows who´s Dr jekyll & who´s Mr Hyde..

FA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Trond Solberg, 1999

Trad 55m
6+ Mr Hyde
1 6 35m
2 6+ 35m

FA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Trond Solberg, 1999

Trad 70m, 2
Austvågøy Djupfjord Sjøsvaet
6 Solens sønner
1 5+ 35m
2 6 50m
3 5 30m
4 5 30m

A mixed route characterised by safe but runout slab climbing

FA: Ed Webster & Odd-Roar Wiik, 1993

Mixed trad 150m, 6
6 Månens døtre
1 6- 24m
2 5+ 30m
3 5+ 30m
4 6 55m

FA: Ed Webster & Johan Sandberg, 1993

Mixed trad 140m, 4, 5
Austvågøy Presten Corridor boulders Boulder C
5 Easy Peasy Boulder
Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder A
5 Stive støvler Boulder
5 Kjell Oves vegg Boulder

Showing 1 - 100 out of 214 routes.

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