Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Vinstad | |||||
7 | Pure Addiction
1
6
40m
2
7-
50m
3
7
40m
4
6+
35m
5
6+
50m
6
7-
60m
| 280m, 6 | |||
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Bunesfjorden Bunessanda Ausodden Boulder A | |||||
FB:6A | Viggos tak | ||||
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Bunesfjorden Bunessanda Ausodden Boulder B | |||||
FB:6A | Tøffe tak | ||||
FB:6A | Projekt #8 | ||||
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Bunesfjorden Bunessanda Ausodden Boulder C | |||||
FB:6A+ | Cerviche | ||||
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Bunesfjorden Bunessanda Above the cabin | |||||
FB:6A | ★ The Lookout | ||||
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Bunesfjorden Bunessanda The warm up | |||||
FB:6A | Crouch | ||||
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Bunesfjorden Bunessanda Hidden tent | |||||
FB:6A+ | The maze | ||||
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Bunesfjorden Bunessanda Go low | |||||
FB:6A+ | Smooth traverse | ||||
FB:6A | Crimpanse | ||||
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Bunesfjorden Bunessanda The slab | |||||
FB:6A | Beware the hole | ||||
FB:6A+ | Not so slabby | ||||
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Bunesfjorden Bunessanda Solveggen | |||||
FB:6A+ | En Dansk, en Tysk och en Bellman | ||||
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Helvetestinden | |||||
7 PROT:R | ★★ Norwegian Sheep Ranch
One of the routes with better rock on Helvetestinden. The first pitch is softer than 7 (6+) but long (60m+) & bold. Double 3s & a 4 recommended for P3 (7-). Pitch 4 is long but closer to N6. FA: Tommy Caldwell & Beth Rodden, 2005 | 6 | |||
7+ | Första approximationen
1
5
10m
2
6
30m
3
7+
20m
4
3+
70m
FA: Joakim Söderström & Jonas Wiklund, 2010 | 130m, 4 | |||
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Stamprevtinden | |||||
7 AID:A2 | Sweet dreams then beautiful nightmares
FA: Jiri Švihálek & Ondra Švihálek, 2012 | 480m, 13 | |||
7/7+ | The Human Timeline
On the East Face of Stamprevtinden South Peak. There´s a topo here and full trip report here.
FFA: Bernat Bilarrassa, Gerber Cucurell & Jordi Esteve, 25 May 2019 | 600m, 20 | |||
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Merraflestinden | |||||
7 | Indiana
FA: Rob Lamey & Mike Rolf, 2016 | 10 | |||
7+ | Bilberry Meadow
1
6
2
6
3
5
4
6+
5
7+
6
6
7
6+
8
5
Topo here. Be prepared to run it out at the grade for sections on the 2/3 crux pitches. Some big cams nice to have for the rest of the climb. A description and some images of the route can be found here FA: Rob Lamey & Mike Rolf, 2016 | 8 | |||
7+ | Syv Veggen
There are topos here and here. The first ascentionists recommend taking a #6 to protect the pitch 5 off width. A description and some images of the route can be found here FA: Guille Cuadrado, Gerber Cucurell & Jordi Esteve, May 2017 | 480m, 11 | |||
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Marklitinden | |||||
7 AID:A1 | `Paret Nord´
A description & topo available here FA: Unknown | ||||
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Moltbærtinden | |||||
7 AID:A2 | Diamantfinner
On the North Face of Moltbaertinden North Peak. Description & topo available
FFA: Bernat Bilarrassa, Gerber Cucurell & Jordi Esteve, 24 May 2019 | 400m | |||
Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Breiflogtinden | |||||
7 | Permit to Åsgård
Shared start with One Hundred Years Later on the grassy slopes above a leaning pillar. All stances are bolted. FA: Holger Jantsch, Ole Klingeman & Eggert Keller, 1997 | 600m, 16 | |||
7+ | ★★★ One hundred years later
1
4
2
5-
3
6+
4
7+
5
6
6
6
7
6+
8
6
9
6
10
4
11
6-
12
6
13
6+
14
6+
One of the best routes out West with stacked climbing on good rock. Most bolts have been recently re-equipped.
Some images here- View this post on Instagram View this post on Instagram FA: Helmut Gargitter, Simon Kehrer, Ivan Calderon, Fredrico Pisani & Fernando Rubio, 2013 | 600m, 14 | |||
Moksnesøya Tindstinden The boulders | |||||
FB:6A | Kolotus
FA: Hilla Rudanko, 2017 | ||||
FB:6A | Pötkötys
FA: Hilla Rudanko, 2017 | ||||
Flakstadøya Stortind | |||||
7 | Aina sugar kantarell | 11 | |||
Flakstadøya Flakstadpollen Ting & Tang | |||||
FB:6A+ | Ting & Tang | ||||
Flakstadøya Flakstadpollen Ekkaman | |||||
FB:6A | Ekkaman | ||||
Flakstadøya Flakstadpollen Flo | |||||
FB:6A+ | ★★ Flo | ||||
Flakstadøya Flakstadpollen Mandela | |||||
FB:6A | Nelson Mandela | ||||
Flakstadøya Flakstadpollen Langneset-Buldern | |||||
FB:6A+ | Nameless #23 | ||||
Flakstadøya Ramberg The boulders Beach boulder | |||||
FB:6A+ | ★ Swell inc. | ||||
FB:6A | Kayak variation | ||||
Flakstadøya Ramberg The boulders Skagsanden Boulder A | |||||
FB:6A | Havtåke | ||||
FB:6A+ | Hvalburger | ||||
FB:6A+ | Førsteretten | ||||
Flakstadøya Ramberg The boulders Skagsanden Boulder B | |||||
FB:6A | Morning Glory | ||||
FB:6A | Keep on Stretching that Rubberband | ||||
Flakstadøya Ramberg The boulders Skagsanden Boulder C | |||||
FB:6A+ | Electric Blue Café | ||||
FB:6A | Midnight Stalker | ||||
Flakstadøya Ramberg The boulders Idyllsteinen | |||||
FB:6A | Crossing | ||||
FB:6A | ★ Midnattssol | ||||
FB:6A+ | ★ To kalde pils | ||||
Flakstadøya Ramberg | |||||
7 | Ramberger | 4 | |||
Flakstadøya Storura Moulder N | |||||
FB:6A | ★ Kasin pantti | ||||
Vestvågøy Gimsøya Gimsøysand Boulder B | |||||
FB:6A | Pinnocchio | ||||
Vestvågøy Gimsøya Gimsøysand Boulder C | |||||
FB:6A+ | I Wish I Was a Pimp | ||||
Vestvågøy Gimsøya Gimsøysand Boulder D | |||||
{FB} 6A | Slippery when wet | ||||
{FB} 6A | Jonas Beta | ||||
Vestvågøy Gimsøya Gimsøymyren Dubble Blocks | |||||
FB:6A | Sprickan | ||||
FB:6A | Arêten til høyre om sprickan | ||||
Vestvågøy Gimsøya Gimsøymyren Crocodile Dundee | |||||
FB:6A | Motvind | ||||
FB:6A+ | Medvind | ||||
Vestvågøy Smorten Where´s my feet | |||||
FB:6A | Negro | ||||
Vestvågøy Smorten Morena | |||||
FB:6A+ | Cowboysträck | ||||
FB:6A+ | Nameless | ||||
Vestvågøy Smorten Game of Drones | |||||
FB:6A+ | Game of Drones | ||||
Vestvågøy Smorten Low | |||||
FB:6A | Silly Me | ||||
Vestvågøy Valberg Finnhamn | |||||
FB:6A | Northern Harm | ||||
Vestvågøy Valberg Skokkelvika Slartibartfast | |||||
FB:6A | ★ Nameless 2 | ||||
Vestvågøy Valberg Skokkelvika Moaiern | |||||
FB:6A | Moltebær | ||||
FB:6A | Nameless #12 | ||||
Vestvågøy Stamsund | |||||
FR:6c+ | ★★ Queen Konkylie
Starts in the corner to the right of the roof. Shared lower off with Projekt 2 FA: Håkon Nordhaug, 2020 | 20m | |||
FR:6c+ | ★★ Ruta #16 | ||||
Vestvågøy Sand | |||||
FB:6A+ | Nameless 2 | ||||
Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||
FR:7a | ★★ Alkotest
FA: Odd-Roar Wiik, 2005 | 20m | |||
FR:6c/c+ | ★★ Ildvann
FA: Odd-Roar Wiik, 2005 | 15m | |||
FR:7a | ★★★ Sankthansormen
The extension to Ildvann. FA: Eivind Storvik, 2005 | 28m | |||
FR:7a | ★ Prinsessens søster
The P2 extension to Forselv rederi. | ||||
Vestvågøy Uttakleiv Syd Golden wall | |||||
FB:6A | ★★ Golden wall | ||||
Vestvågøy Uttakleiv Syd Strandveggen | |||||
FB:6A | Strandkanten | ||||
FB:6A | Strandsprekken | ||||
Vestvågøy Uttakleiv Nord Halvmånen | |||||
FB:6A+ | ★ Nymåne | ||||
Vestvågøy Uttakleiv Nord Utdrikningslaget | |||||
FB:6A+ | Utdrikningslaget | ||||
Vestvågøy Uttakleiv Nord Centralveggen | |||||
FB:6A+ | Nameless#16 | ||||
FB:6A+ | Nameless#17 | ||||
Austvågøy Brenna Boulder A | |||||
FB:6A | Pulley | ||||
FB:6A | Gode Tak | ||||
Austvågøy Brenna Boulder B | |||||
FB:6A+ | Supaman | ||||
Austvågøy Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders La Perla | |||||
FB:6A | Triple Cracks
| ||||
Austvågøy Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders Monster Slabass | |||||
FB:6A+ | Captain Completo
| ||||
Austvågøy Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders Monster Da Woods | |||||
FB:6A | Longi
| ||||
Austvågøy Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders Monster The Polus | |||||
FB:6A | The Polus
| ||||
Austvågøy Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders Monster Coffin Shaker | |||||
FB:6A | Coffin Shaker
| ||||
Austvågøy Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders Monster Shadowboxing | |||||
FB:6A | Shadowboxing
| ||||
Austvågøy Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders Stem Bastensen By the road | |||||
{FB} 6A | Nameless problem #12
| ||||
FB:6A | Rettsia
| ||||
Austvågøy Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders Stem Bastensen Melting Fire | |||||
FB:6A+ | Melting Fire
| ||||
FB:6A | Burning Ice
| ||||
Austvågøy Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders Stem Bastensen Tare Baby | |||||
FB:6A | Nameless problem #29
| ||||
Austvågøy Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders Stem Bastensen Fotogenetikk | |||||
FB:6A | Fotogenetikk
| ||||
Austvågøy Lyngvær | |||||
7+/8- | ★★★ La Vida Joika
1
7
30m
2
7
50m
3
7+/8-
20m
La Vida Joika follows the most obvious crack system from the bottom to the top of the upper Lyngvaer wall. The route is characterized by sustained physical movement on good quality rock much steeper than typical Lofoten routes and very good protection. 2 steep trad approach pitches lead to the exposed bolted crux pitch.
Rap the route with 1 60m rope in 4 rappels. NB- Recommended not to belay higher than top of Pitch 2 as the belay on top of the pillar is amazing and the lead climber can be easily lowered back to the belay instead of belaying on top. FA: Charlie Long & Rune Harjo Jensen, 2019 | 100m, 3, 10 | |||
Austvågøy Rørvika Lower Wall | |||||
7 | ★★★ Elvis
FA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Jimmy Halvardsson, 1996 | 40m | |||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Svenskeveggen | |||||
7 | ★ Du gamla du fria
| 14m | |||
7 | Blåhval superstar
Put by a Bohuslän climber. Bold. FA: Petter Restorp, 1990 | 14m | |||
7 | ★ Arbetsskygg
Fun climbing with some hard and delicate moves. Tougher and more poorly protected than Snickar glädje FA: Petter Restorp, 1990 | ||||
7 | ★★★ Snickar glädje
Hard start and scene of a couple of broken ankles. Consider bringing a boulder pad/ clipping a pre-placed 1st piece FA: Some Swedes, 1990 | 15m | |||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||
7 | ★ Sterk, Naken og Biltyvene
FA: Bjarte Bø & Ane Grete Nebell, 1997 | ||||
7-/7 | ★★★ Djupfjord sprickan
Tight hands to offwidth crack. Fun jamming test piece that´s easy for the small hand crowd (7-) & tough work for large hands (7) Bolted anchor as of July 2019 FA: Simon Thyr, 2000 | 20m |