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Access issues inherited from Ofoten

The tourist website sucks. The TL/DR is either get the sleeper train from Sweden into Narvik (via Stockholm or Kiruna) or Fly (into Evenes). For international travellers, the train option is usually cheaper and more relaxing.

Connecting buses run between Narvik, Evenes & Lofoten. Search here:

https://reisnordland.no/

Swedish rail here:

https://www.sj.se/en/about/about-sj/our-trains/sj-night-train.html

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Routes

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Grade Route

The natural line of descent from the summit if continuing onto Sildpollentinden.

1 4- 60m
2 4+ 60m
3 4- 60m
4 2 30m
5 4+ 55m
6 4 60m
7 5- 60m
8 4+ 50m

The most popular route to the summit is well protected, moderately graded & in an absolutely fantastic setting. A nice day of moving in the mountains with a great mountaineering vibe.

There is a route description & topo available from the climbing club. Walk off the back & don´t rapp as described (it´s not really known if that line actually exists!)

https://www.narvikklatreklubb.no/uteklatring/tradisjonell-klatring/kuglhornet/

Images here:

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A post shared by Bergtagen Mountain Guide (@bergtagenguides)

1 5+
2 5+
3 5
4 6-
5 5

Route on the far left of the North face that rejoins Østkammen after 5 pitches

FA: Rick McGregor, Lars Thulin & Johanna Tiensuu-Stålnacke, 2007

1 6+ 40m
2 7- 30m
3 6+ 35m
4 7+ 40m
5 7 35m
6 6+ 50m

FA: Krister Jonsson, 26 Aug 2019

1 6
2 6-
3 7-
4 7
5 4+

Some images here:

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A post shared by Andreas Widlund

FA: krister jonsson & Denny Calvo, 2007

FA: Tommy Nilsson & Mikael Kivijärvi, 1980

1 5- 25m
2 5 25m
3 6 25m
4 6- 50m
5 6+ 50m
6 7- 45m
7 6 40m
8 5+ 25m
9 7 45m
10 5 40m

Amazing, sustained, steep climbing. Some bold moves and one serious pitch which gets out the best of you.

  1. Climb the detached flake

  2. Step right then up into the clean RF corner system. Belay at a small stance

  3. Continue up the corner, traversing under the roof and up to a small stance

  4. Steeper jamming leads up to, then over a bulge & trending left in the beautiful corner system to another small stance

  5. More steep jamming up the remaining corner system leads to a semi hanging belay under the roof.

  6. The traverse pitch. Head out left under the roof then up the airy corner for 5m before boldly traversing left 2m to gain the next crack system. An exposed, technical & excellent pitch

  7. Back to hand jams & easier climbing up the next corner system.

  8. A short pitch up the remaining corner system to a deluxe grassy ledge

  9. A tough start, retrofitted with fixed equipment (1 bolt, 2 knifblades), leads to a wider crack system & gradually easier climbing. The Crux.

  10. Continue up the wide corner, before trending left under the roof where a handcrack appears up to the final summit.

Some images:

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A post shared by Stian Bruvoll (Stian Bruvoll)

FFA: Philip Curry & Stian Bruvoll, Aug 2019

FA: Kent Lindstöm & Goran Hellström, 1981

Some images here:

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A post shared by Alexander Nordvall (@alexandernordvall)

FA: Alexander Nordvall & Andreas Widlund, Sep 2019

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