Routes in Ofoten

Mixed route with a cam needed for the upper section

DBB

Mixed route

DBB

DBB

An open projekt. DBB

Closed project. DBB

There´s some initial admission ticket vegetation climbing on the lower portion of the route. The remaining pitches are high quality climbing on good friction granite.

A long traverse to the right below the top third of the face (after 5 pitches) leads to the base of two obvious dihedrals. The biggest dihedral to the right has a lot of vegetation, so climb the left hand one. This is the crux section of the route and starts with a perfect finger crack that eventually turns into a hand crack (#3 Camalot). The crux section is steep but is easily aid climbed if you can't manage the 7+ climbing.

Mixed route

Mixed route on the left side of the slab

Mixed route

The finger crack above Steppgubbens dotter

Mostly moderate climbing (grade 4-5) with a long and nice dihedral as the crux section. The climbing is mostly made up of dihedral formations and knobby slab sections. A 70 meter-rope & a running belay was used on easier parts of the first ascent. Using a shorter rope would probably increase the number of pitches to about 15, but there are plenty of opportunities for good belays on the whole route.

An outrageous, overhanging open project

Mixed route

Mixed route

The natural line of descent from the summit if continuing onto Sildpollentinden.

Route description & topo here:

http://www.stetind.nu/uploads/6/1/8/8/6188415/vestveggenog_vesteggen_p_stetind.pdf

The striking West ridge is the obvious path to the summit from Vestveggen. Amazingly completed in 1937, there´s 300m of easy scrambling before you arrive at a block below the obvious wide crack.

1. N6. Start up the dihedral, when the holds disappear traverse left into the wide & sustained crack. Big cams useful (1x #2, #3 & 4#).

2. and

3. N3. Easier climbing leads to the base of the next steep crack.

4. N6-. Climb the finger crack in the middle of the wall, after 15m traverse to some balancey climbing on the arete. The crack in the main corner is harder (N6 for the wide crack, N7- for the thin corner crack).

5. and

6. N5. Easier cracks and corners lead to a rightwards exit through a hole & up to the summit block

1. Start up the slab then follow the obvious easy system to a ledge.

2. More easy slabs to a ledge.

3. More straightforward cruising. Belay at the base of the right leaning corner.

4. Climb RF corner up to the first big ledge system.

5. Walk left to belay on a small ledge below the next groove system

6. Follow the grooves to belay at the base of the bombay chimney.

7. Rock, paper scissors for carrying the pack then up the chimney to a ledge.

8. Straight forward cracks

9. Up the finger crack until an awkward move left is needed. Continuing up this groove leads to the 2nd large ledge system. Set your belay below 40m pillar with twin grooves.

10. Climb the mini roof to a small ledge.

11. Follow the crack, when it ends step left to belay at a good stance below the RF groove

12. The RF groove (crux) leads up to an exposed stance.

13. Down climb from the belay then traverse out right to access the gully. Follow this to the summit.

Long route with the occasional bolt to the left of sydpillaren.

The section of rock between the end of the hiking trail (Halls Fortopp) & the summit block. It´s also the descent for the climbing routes.

A description is available here (in Norwegian)-

http://www.stetind.nu/normalveien.html

A description for winter conditions here- http://alpinklatring.blogspot.com/2015/02/vintertur-pa-stetind.html

A description of the ski route- https://www.friflyt.no/topptur/stetind-ambolten-hvor-droemmer-blir-smidd

The most popular route to the summit is well protected, moderately graded & in an absolutely fantastic setting. A nice day of moving in the mountains with a great mountaineering vibe.

There is a route description & topo available from the climbing club. Walk off the back & don´t rapp as described (it´s not really known if that line actually exists!)

https://www.narvikklatreklubb.no/uteklatring/tradisjonell-klatring/kuglhornet/

A large cam could be useful (#4)

It´s 5 pitches to the last rapp station or 12 pitches to the summit

5 pitches to the last rapp station. Bail from here or continue to the summit via klubbruta