Routes in Ofoten

Shared anchor with Sauen.

Mixed route with a cam needed for the upper section

An outrageous, overhanging open project

DBB

The extension to Gakk-Gakk. Over the roof and up the slab..

There´s some initial admission ticket vegetation climbing on the lower portion of the route. The remaining pitches are high quality climbing on good friction granite.

A long traverse to the right below the top third of the face (after 5 pitches) leads to the base of two obvious dihedrals. The biggest dihedral to the right has a lot of vegetation, so climb the left hand one. This is the crux section of the route and starts with a perfect finger crack that eventually turns into a hand crack (#3 Camalot). The crux section is steep but is easily aid climbed if you can't manage the 7+ climbing.

DBB

Amazing, sustained, steep climbing. Some bold moves and one serious pitch which gets out the best of you.

1. Climb the detached flake

2. Step right then up into the clean RF corner system. Belay at a small stance

3. Continue up the corner, traversing under the roof and up to a small stance

4. Steeper jamming leads up to, then over a bulge & trending left in the beautiful corner system to another small stance

5. More steep jamming up the remaining corner system leads to a semi hanging belay under the roof.

6. The traverse pitch. Head out left under the roof then up the airy corner for 5m before boldly traversing left 2m to gain the next crack system. An exposed, technical & excellent pitch

7. Back to hand jams & easier climbing up the next corner system.

8. A short pitch up the remaining corner system to a deluxe grassy ledge

9. A tough start on loose rock leads to a wider crack system & gradually easier climbing. Another bold pitch. The Crux.

10. Continue up the wide corner, before trending left under the roof where a handcrack appears up to the final summit.

Mixed route

Route description and topo available from Norsk Tindeklubb- http://www.ntk.no/topo/stay-cool/

The route is situated in the next big buttress to the north of route ”Påskeeggen” on Gangesaksla ENE face. Follow shore or do the approach by boat.

Very nice long route offering good variety of climbing corners, splitter cracks and slabs. Excellent rock quality, little vegetation and loose rock (except on ledges and ramps) gives an enjoyable and interesting tour with difficulties no more than grade 6 plus a few metres of thin hands crack which probably go free around 6+/7-. Some little run-outs <5m are encountered, but they are pretty straight forward with one exception: pitch 9 being a little bit more complex.

The lower part (p 1-15) of the route consists of dihedrals and cracks with occassional slab cruxes in between. Pitches 7-13 are especially nice. After p 15 there is a super big ledge with snow and water running from the right side.

The upper part is easy going and more open offering a nice promenade with most of the Skjomen fjord as a beutiful backdrop and Frostisen glacier coming into sight as the height is gained. Start by climbing weird structures inside of wide crack/gully which splits the face. Continue climbing this for about 200 metres or 3-4 pitches. In the uppermost part after coming out of the crack/gully system the climbing goes little by little diagonally left to top out almost at the left corner of the whole rock face.

A mixed route