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Routes in Ofoten

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 420 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
4+ Sydøsteggen/Normalveien

The section of rock between the end of the hiking trail (Halls Fortopp) & the summit block. It´s also the descent for the climbing routes.

A description is available here (in Norwegian)-

http://www.stetind.nu/normalveien.html

A description for winter conditions here- http://alpinklatring.blogspot.com/2015/02/vintertur-pa-stetind.html

A description of the ski route- https://www.friflyt.no/topptur/stetind-ambolten-hvor-droemmer-blir-smidd

Trad Hamarøy
6- Sydpillaren
1 4+ 50m
2 3 50m
3 4+ 50m
4 5- 50m
5 4 15m
6 5- 50m
7 4+ 50m
8 4+ 50m
9 5- 70m
10 6- 50m
11 5+ 30m
12 6- 40m
13 3 70m
  1. Start up the slab then follow the obvious easy system to a ledge.

  2. More easy slabs to a ledge.

  3. More straightforward cruising. Belay at the base of the right leaning corner.

  4. Climb RF corner up to the first big ledge system.

  5. Walk left to belay on a small ledge below the next groove system

  6. Follow the grooves to belay at the base of the bombay chimney.

  7. Rock, paper scissors for carrying the pack then up the chimney to a ledge.

  8. Straight forward cracks

  9. Up the finger crack until an awkward move left is needed. Continuing up this groove leads to the 2nd large ledge system. Set your belay below 40m pillar with twin grooves.

  10. Climb the mini roof to a small ledge.

  11. Follow the crack, when it ends step left to belay at a good stance below the RF groove

  12. The RF groove (crux) leads up to an exposed stance.

  13. Down climb from the belay then traverse out right to access the gully. Follow this to the summit.

FA: Arne Næs & Else Hertzberg, 1936

FFA: Lars-Göran Johansson & Håkan Bjerneld, 1972

Trad 630m, 13 Hamarøy
6 Vesteggen
1 6 55m
2 3 55m
3 3 15m
4 6- 50m
5 5 60m
6 3 20m

The striking West ridge is the obvious path to the summit from Vestveggen. Amazingly completed in 1937, there´s 300m of easy scrambling before you arrive at a block below the obvious wide crack.

  1. N6. Start up the dihedral, when the holds disappear traverse left into the wide & sustained crack. Big cams useful (1x #2, #3 & 4#).

  2. and

  3. N3. Easier climbing leads to the base of the next steep crack.

  4. N6-. Climb the finger crack in the middle of the wall, after 15m traverse to some balancey climbing on the arete. The crack in the main corner is harder (N6 for the wide crack, N7- for the thin corner crack).

  5. and

  6. N5. Easier cracks and corners lead to a rightwards exit through a hole & up to the summit block

FA: Arne Næss & Boss Walther, 1937

FFA: Anders Lundhal & Eva Selin, 1980

Trad 260m, 6 Hamarøy
5- Normalveien Trad 7 Hamarøy
6+ Vestveggen
1 4 60m
2 6 55m
3 6- 55m
4 4 15m
5 6 15m
6 6+ 50m
7 4 55m
8 5 45m

Route description & topo here:

http://www.stetind.nu/uploads/6/1/8/8/6188415/vestveggenog_vesteggen_p_stetind.pdf

FA: Anders Lundhal & Eva Selin, 1980

Trad 350m, 8 Hamarøy
7 Vannmysteriet Sport Hamarøy
6+ Steinspranget Sport Hamarøy
4+ Klubbruta
1 4 40m
2 4+ 35m
3 4 30m
4 4+ 30m
5 4 30m
6 4 30m

From the last belay station (P6) it´s another 6ish rope lengths of scrambling to the top. From the summit, descend via Northern side.

Trad 200m, 6 Hamarøy
5 Et lite stykke Norge Sport Hamarøy
4+ Fotarbeid Sport Hamarøy
5 Livet på Eggen Sport Hamarøy
5+ Dalvannstraversen Sport Narvik
4 Høydedrag Sport Hamarøy
7 Nordvestpassasjen
1 5- 25m
2 5 25m
3 6 25m
4 6- 50m
5 6+ 50m
6 7- 45m
7 6 40m
8 5+ 25m
9 7 45m
10 5 40m

Amazing, sustained, steep climbing. Some bold moves and one serious pitch which gets out the best of you.

  1. Climb the detached flake

  2. Step right then up into the clean RF corner system. Belay at a small stance

  3. Continue up the corner, traversing under the roof and up to a small stance

  4. Steeper jamming leads up to, then over a bulge & trending left in the beautiful corner system to another small stance

  5. More steep jamming up the remaining corner system leads to a semi hanging belay under the roof.

  6. The traverse pitch. Head out left under the roof then up the airy corner for 5m before boldly traversing left 2m to gain the next crack system. An exposed, technical & excellent pitch

  7. Back to hand jams & easier climbing up the next corner system.

  8. A short pitch up the remaining corner system to a deluxe grassy ledge

  9. A tough start on loose rock leads to a wider crack system & gradually easier climbing. Another bold pitch. The Crux.

  10. Continue up the wide corner, before trending left under the roof where a handcrack appears up to the final summit.

FFA: Stian Bruvoll & Philip Curry, Aug 2019

Trad 370m, 10 Hamarøy
5- Østkammen
1 4- 60m
2 4+ 60m
3 4- 60m
4 2 30m
5 4+ 55m
6 4 60m
7 5- 60m
8 4+ 50m

The most popular route to the summit is well protected, moderately graded & in an absolutely fantastic setting. A nice day of moving in the mountains with a great mountaineering vibe.

There is a route description & topo available from the climbing club. Walk off the back & don´t rapp as described (it´s not really known if that line actually exists!)

https://www.narvikklatreklubb.no/uteklatring/tradisjonell-klatring/kuglhornet/

Trad 440m, 8 Hamarøy
5+ Engelskdiederet
1 3
2 5+
3 5-
4 5+
5 5

It´s 5 pitches to the last rapp station or 12 pitches to the summit

Trad 200m, 5 Hamarøy
FR:6b+ BAS
Sport Narvik
FR:6b Blokka Sport Narvik
FR:6a Thorbjørnruta Direct
Sport 14m Narvik
3 Charlotte Ling Trad 15m Narvik
5- Regnkampen Trad Hamarøy
8- Fallgruven Sport Hamarøy
6A Med smørende fot Boulder Hamarøy
4- Ferdig til varen Trad Narvik
WI4 Nordlysdiederet

Located on the West face Nonstinden (near Storå). Rapp via trees

Ice 100m, 2 Møysalen Nasjonalpark
7B Salte peanøtter Boulder Skjomdalen
#2 Boulder Tjeldøya
Oppvarming bærføtt Boulder Tjeldøya
Travers fra Venstre Boulder Tjeldøya
4+ Nordgalleriet Trad 15 Hamarøy
FR:5c Areten
Sport Narvik
FR:7a KiF

FA: Dagfinn Eilertsen, 2000

Sport 20m Narvik
FR:7a Gach-Gach

The extension to Gakk-Gakk. Over the roof and up the slab..

FA: Håkon Wegge

Sport 20m Narvik
6 Skallebank Trad 10m Narvik
7- Olofsson-Remes Trad 9 Hamarøy
5 Karius og Baktus Sport Hamarøy
6 Drømdiederet
1 4+
2 5+
3 6-
4 6
5 5+
6 5
Trad 6 Hamarøy
WI3 CP-fallet Ice 65m Narvik
WI4 - 5 Wet dreams Ice 60m Tjeldøya
5+ Myrsyra Boulder Skjomdalen
Sva en Boulder Tjeldøya
Fløtetraversen Boulder Tjeldøya
FR:4a Velkommen
Sport Narvik
4+ Nordøsteggen Trad 5 Hamarøy
FR:6b+ Lärdomen Trad Narvik
AIDC:C1 Crack-a-go-go Aid 35m Skjomdalen
7+ Hjørnet directe Sport Narvik
7- Piper at the Gates of Dawn Trad Narvik
7- 2 Sport Hamarøy
6A Lene seg på den ene Boulder Hamarøy
3 - 4 Nordveggen Trad Narvik
5+ Sørøstryggen

FA: Soderin & Sundberg, 1978

Trad 6 Hamarøy
6 Sendetoget NSB
  1. 5 pitches of easy terrain past ledges with a lot of debris.

  2. .

  3. .

  4. .

  5. .

  6. Follows an obvious RF dihedral for 3 pitches to it´s end.

  7. .

  8. .

  9. The crux 55-meter pitch leads up & right into run-out terrain, where it’s tricky to find the path of least resistance.

  10. A short pitch to a good ledge. 10m. A possible bivy site.

  11. A sequence that involves changing corners to the right is followed by climbing left to the next stance.

  12. Steep but well protected climbing.

  13. The angle eases off slightly, starting left then back right & towards the right-hand side of a pillar. A chimney behind the pillar leads to the summit.

FA: Håkon Wegge & Anna Nystedt, Jun 2019

Trad 13 Skjomdalen
Sofaryggprosjektet Boulder Tjeldøya
To fløtt Boulder Tjeldøya
Karma orginal Boulder Tjeldøya
FR:6b 40-årskrisen
Sport Narvik
7- Hjørnet Trad Narvik
FR:7a+ Jantedøden

FA: Rune Harjo Jensen, 2019

Sport 15m Narvik
5 Kapsten Trad 15m Narvik
5- Eidbush Trad 5 Hamarøy
5 Jaktfalken Sport Hamarøy
5+ Eggen Trad 20m Narvik
7+ Karikåpa
1 4
2 6-
3 6
4 5+
5 5+
6 2
7 7-
8 7+
9 5+
10 4

There´s some initial admission ticket vegetation climbing on the lower portion of the route. The remaining pitches are high quality climbing on good friction granite.

A long traverse to the right below the top third of the face (after 5 pitches) leads to the base of two obvious dihedrals. The biggest dihedral to the right has a lot of vegetation, so climb the left hand one. This is the crux section of the route and starts with a perfect finger crack that eventually turns into a hand crack (#3 Camalot). The crux section is steep but is easily aid climbed if you can't manage the 7+ climbing.

FA: Stian Bruvoll & Jo Espen, Jul 2019

Trad 530m, 10 Hamarøy
WI3 Blå

Located on the NW face Middagshaugen. Rapp via trees

Ice 100m, 2 Møysalen Nasjonalpark
7A Carapils Boulder Skjomdalen
Smuss Boulder Tjeldøya
Oppvarming bærfløtt Boulder Tjeldøya
Travers fra Høyre Boulder Tjeldøya
7+ Nordveggen Trad 34 Hamarøy
FR:6a+ Broken arrow
Sport Narvik
FR:7c+ Slaget om Narvik

FA: Frode Sobhi & Fredrik Hansson, 2004

Sport Narvik
6 Holoholahoy Sport Narvik
4 Mossiga Diedret Trad 10m Narvik
6+ Lundahl-Selin Trad 15 Hamarøy
5 Snushanen Sport Hamarøy
7 AID:A3 Østveggen Trad 7 Hamarøy
WI3 Gul og blå Ice 35m Narvik
WI3 Crazy man

Walk off descent (NE)

Ice 100m Tjeldøya
5+ Torturkammeret Boulder Skjomdalen
Sva to Boulder Tjeldøya
Som fløte Boulder Tjeldøya
WI5+ Kongens Panorama
1 WI5+ 25m
2 WI5 30m
3 WI4 50m
4 WI3+ 50m
5 WI2 50m
6 WI3+ 45m
7 WI5 40m

Gear beta:

  • Small alpine rack (Cams, nuts & pitons)
  • 12-14 ice screws.

Descent: Reverse the route. There´s one rappelling anchor at the top (1 nut & 1 piton).

FA: Alexander Nordvall, Anna Nystedt & Marcus Loewen, 2020

Ice 290m, 7 Skjomdalen
6- Sva i September Trad Hamarøy
FR:5b Hjørnedans Trad Narvik
5 En ring av selvtillit

FA: Thorbjørn Enevold, 1980

Trad Skjomdalen
8- Kjerringdjevel Sport Narvik
6+ Flyktvägen

Mixed route. A diagonal crack leads to a slab finish

Mixed trad 30m, 5 Narvik
6+ 3 Sport Hamarøy
6A Løvenes kongle Boulder Hamarøy
3 - 4 Vestveggen Trad Narvik
6 Mispule Trad 400m Hamarøy
6+/7- Reindeer Spotting

The route is situated in the next big buttress to the north of route ”Påskeeggen” on Gangesaksla ENE face. Follow shore or do the approach by boat.

Very nice long route offering good variety of climbing corners, splitter cracks and slabs. Excellent rock quality, little vegetation and loose rock (except on ledges and ramps) gives an enjoyable and interesting tour with difficulties no more than grade 6 plus a few metres of thin hands crack which probably go free around 6+/7-. Some little run-outs <5m are encountered, but they are pretty straight forward with one exception: pitch 9 being a little bit more complex.

The lower part (p 1-15) of the route consists of dihedrals and cracks with occassional slab cruxes in between. Pitches 7-13 are especially nice. After p 15 there is a super big ledge with snow and water running from the right side.

The upper part is easy going and more open offering a nice promenade with most of the Skjomen fjord as a beutiful backdrop and Frostisen glacier coming into sight as the height is gained. Start by climbing weird structures inside of wide crack/gully which splits the face. Continue climbing this for about 200 metres or 3-4 pitches. In the uppermost part after coming out of the crack/gully system the climbing goes little by little diagonally left to top out almost at the left corner of the whole rock face.

FA: Samuli Pekkanen & Jaana Ylipelto, 21 Aug 2015

Trad 1000m, 20 Skjomdalen
Faen veit Boulder Tjeldøya
Opp høyre egg Boulder Tjeldøya
#58 Boulder Tjeldøya
FR:6a Svorsk for Nybegynnere
Sport 12m Narvik
6+ Skitnödig Sport Narvik
FR:7c Blanke Hælvete

FA: Dagfinn Eilertsen & Frode Sobhi, 2007

Sport 15m Narvik
5 Romancing the stone Trad 15m Narvik

Showing 1 - 100 out of 420 routes.

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