Routes in Ofoten

The section of rock between the end of the hiking trail (Halls Fortopp) & the summit block. It´s also the descent for the climbing routes.

A description is available here (in Norwegian)-

http://www.stetind.nu/normalveien.html

A description for winter conditions here- http://alpinklatring.blogspot.com/2015/02/vintertur-pa-stetind.html

A description of the ski route- https://www.friflyt.no/topptur/stetind-ambolten-hvor-droemmer-blir-smidd

1. Start up the slab then follow the obvious easy system to a ledge.

2. More easy slabs to a ledge.

3. More straightforward cruising. Belay at the base of the right leaning corner.

4. Climb RF corner up to the first big ledge system.

5. Walk left to belay on a small ledge below the next groove system

6. Follow the grooves to belay at the base of the bombay chimney.

7. Rock, paper scissors for carrying the pack then up the chimney to a ledge.

8. Straight forward cracks

9. Up the finger crack until an awkward move left is needed. Continuing up this groove leads to the 2nd large ledge system. Set your belay below 40m pillar with twin grooves.

10. Climb the mini roof to a small ledge.

11. Follow the crack, when it ends step left to belay at a good stance below the RF groove

12. The RF groove (crux) leads up to an exposed stance.

13. Down climb from the belay then traverse out right to access the gully. Follow this to the summit.

The striking West ridge is the obvious path to the summit from Vestveggen. Amazingly completed in 1937, there´s 300m of easy scrambling before you arrive at a block below the obvious wide crack.

1. N6. Start up the dihedral, when the holds disappear traverse left into the wide & sustained crack. Big cams useful (1x #2, #3 & 4#).

2. and

3. N3. Easier climbing leads to the base of the next steep crack.

4. N6-. Climb the finger crack in the middle of the wall, after 15m traverse to some balancey climbing on the arete. The crack in the main corner is harder (N6 for the wide crack, N7- for the thin corner crack).

5. and

6. N5. Easier cracks and corners lead to a rightwards exit through a hole & up to the summit block

Route description & topo here:

http://www.stetind.nu/uploads/6/1/8/8/6188415/vestveggenog_vesteggen_p_stetind.pdf

From the last belay station (P6) it´s another 6ish rope lengths of scrambling to the top. From the summit, descend via Northern side.

Amazing, sustained, steep climbing. Some bold moves and one serious pitch which gets out the best of you.

1. Climb the detached flake

2. Step right then up into the clean RF corner system. Belay at a small stance

3. Continue up the corner, traversing under the roof and up to a small stance

4. Steeper jamming leads up to, then over a bulge & trending left in the beautiful corner system to another small stance

5. More steep jamming up the remaining corner system leads to a semi hanging belay under the roof.

6. The traverse pitch. Head out left under the roof then up the airy corner for 5m before boldly traversing left 2m to gain the next crack system. An exposed, technical & excellent pitch

7. Back to hand jams & easier climbing up the next corner system.

8. A short pitch up the remaining corner system to a deluxe grassy ledge

9. A tough start on loose rock leads to a wider crack system & gradually easier climbing. Another bold pitch. The Crux.

10. Continue up the wide corner, before trending left under the roof where a handcrack appears up to the final summit.

The most popular route to the summit is well protected, moderately graded & in an absolutely fantastic setting. A nice day of moving in the mountains with a great mountaineering vibe.

There is a route description & topo available from the climbing club. Walk off the back & don´t rapp as described (it´s not really known if that line actually exists!)

https://www.narvikklatreklubb.no/uteklatring/tradisjonell-klatring/kuglhornet/

It´s 5 pitches to the last rapp station or 12 pitches to the summit

Located on the West face Nonstinden (near Storå). Rapp via trees

The extension to Gakk-Gakk. Over the roof and up the slab..

1. 5 pitches of easy terrain past ledges with a lot of debris.

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3. .

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6. Follows an obvious RF dihedral for 3 pitches to it´s end.

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9. The crux 55-meter pitch leads up & right into run-out terrain, where it’s tricky to find the path of least resistance.

10. A short pitch to a good ledge. 10m. A possible bivy site.

11. A sequence that involves changing corners to the right is followed by climbing left to the next stance.

12. Steep but well protected climbing.

13. The angle eases off slightly, starting left then back right & towards the right-hand side of a pillar. A chimney behind the pillar leads to the summit.

There´s some initial admission ticket vegetation climbing on the lower portion of the route. The remaining pitches are high quality climbing on good friction granite.

A long traverse to the right below the top third of the face (after 5 pitches) leads to the base of two obvious dihedrals. The biggest dihedral to the right has a lot of vegetation, so climb the left hand one. This is the crux section of the route and starts with a perfect finger crack that eventually turns into a hand crack (#3 Camalot). The crux section is steep but is easily aid climbed if you can't manage the 7+ climbing.

Located on the NW face Middagshaugen. Rapp via trees

Walk off descent (NE)

Gear beta:

• Small alpine rack (Cams, nuts & pitons)
• 12-14 ice screws.

Descent: Reverse the route. There´s one rappelling anchor at the top (1 nut & 1 piton).

Mixed route. A diagonal crack leads to a slab finish

The route is situated in the next big buttress to the north of route ”Påskeeggen” on Gangesaksla ENE face. Follow shore or do the approach by boat.

Very nice long route offering good variety of climbing corners, splitter cracks and slabs. Excellent rock quality, little vegetation and loose rock (except on ledges and ramps) gives an enjoyable and interesting tour with difficulties no more than grade 6 plus a few metres of thin hands crack which probably go free around 6+/7-. Some little run-outs <5m are encountered, but they are pretty straight forward with one exception: pitch 9 being a little bit more complex.

The lower part (p 1-15) of the route consists of dihedrals and cracks with occassional slab cruxes in between. Pitches 7-13 are especially nice. After p 15 there is a super big ledge with snow and water running from the right side.

The upper part is easy going and more open offering a nice promenade with most of the Skjomen fjord as a beutiful backdrop and Frostisen glacier coming into sight as the height is gained. Start by climbing weird structures inside of wide crack/gully which splits the face. Continue climbing this for about 200 metres or 3-4 pitches. In the uppermost part after coming out of the crack/gully system the climbing goes little by little diagonally left to top out almost at the left corner of the whole rock face.