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Stiberg

  • Grade context: NWG
  • Photos: 2

Summary

Excellent steep single pitch trad climbing for crack climbing connoisseurs. Considered by Narvik Klatreklubb to be of a similar quality to Bohuslän.

Description

The crag is now well described on the Klatrefører platform

Access issues inherited from Ofoten

The tourist website sucks. The TL/DR is either get the train from Sweden into Narvik (via Stockholm or Kiruna) or Fly (into Evenes or Kiruna). Pick up a hire car from either airport. For international travellers, an overnight train from Stockholm is usually the cheapest and most relaxing option.

Frustratingly, flights and connecting buses rarely line up in the North. With some patience, you can use public transport to get between Evenes, Narvik, Lofoten and Tromsø. Search here

Link to the overnight Swedish rail here

Approach

Park here, making sure not to block farmers access to the dirt paths.

(68.206650, 17.513754)

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Routes

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Grade Route

70m left of Crack-a-go-go. Follows a right trending groove; take some small cams & nuts.

FA: Jørn Bjerk, 2008

The cleaned slab right of Lady

Topo here

FA: Håkon Wegge, 2020

20m left of Crack-a-go-go. Topo here

FA: Håkon Wegge, 2019

FA: Fredrik Hansson, 2009

Thin finger crack to DBB on a ledge. Rumoured to go free around 9-/9

FA: Thorbjørn Enevold, 1980

FA: Steinulv Aarebrot, 1991

FA: Rick McGregor, 2011

FA: Jonas Wiklund, Joakim Söderström & Håkon Wegge, 2011

FA: Johan Swärd, 2019

Up Flaket then right across horizontal crack after 10m to gain the crack left of La Linja.

The aesthetic crack splitting the wall. The crag classic.

Some images:

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FA: Steinulv Aarebrot, 1991

The short wide crack

En åpen projekt. DBB

DBB

DBB

FA: Thorbjørn Enevold, 1980

En åpen projekt. Beskrivelse her

Closed project. DBB

The long groove to the right of Top of Europe. Small nuts needed for the start.

FA: Ole Ivar Lied, 2004

Trends right then back into Peanøttforbundet Topo here

FA: Tore Bergbjørn, 2021

Description & topo here

FA: Karin Bergbjørn

DBB

FA: Tore Bergbjørn & Karin Bergbjørn, 2020

FA: Mikael af Ekenstam & Tobias Boström, 2008

Access either by Habanos, Helkroppsmassasje or Alt kan repareres from below, or walk around on the right side of the crag and rappell from above.

Description and topo

FA: Karin Bergbjørn, 2020

Located on the wall above Habanos. DBB

FA: Karin Bergbjørn & Tore Bergbjørn, 2020

Approach:

Follow the path on the right side of the mainwall, leading to the top of the crag. Continue for approximately 100m after getting out of the thick forest. Where the path does a sharp left turn, continue straight and off trail. Aim for a small grass chute, following this to its top, and a little further. Frpm here, head down and right to a large mossy ledge.

Fun stemming/finger crack up the dihedral.

To access this route, follow the ledge to its end untill an obvious V shaped edge marks the route's topout. Abseil in off a tree.

FA: Joda Dolmans, Jun 2022

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Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): R.Carlsen und L. V. Wagelid

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9788299776981

Climb Norway - dieser Kletterführer ist ein gutes Überblickswerk für eine kleine Auswahl von Klettergebieten in Norwegen verteilt über das ganze Land.

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