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Access issues inherited from Ofoten

The tourist website sucks. The TL/DR is either get the sleeper train from Sweden into Narvik (via Stockholm or Kiruna) or Fly (into Evenes). For international travellers, the train option is usually cheaper and more relaxing.

Connecting buses run between Narvik, Evenes & Lofoten. Search here:

https://reisnordland.no/

Swedish rail here:

https://www.sj.se/en/about/about-sj/our-trains/sj-night-train.html

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Routes

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Grade Route

The difficulty of the climbing is primarily grade 3+/4-, but with some shorter sections of grade 4.

The route starts up an obvious finger crack splitting the slabs at the base of face. Traverse left after the finger crack and continue up the left of the two obvious dihedrals on the upper part of the face. Apart from some poorly protected slabs the route is well-protected and with little vegetation.

Low-angled slabs, cracks and dihedrals leads up to the shoulder and the descent route.

FA: Jo Espen Rønningen & Stian Bruvoll, 15 Jul 2019

1 6
2 5+
3 6-
4 4+
5 3
6 5+
7 6-
8 6
9 6-
10 5
11 5
12 5+
13 5-
14 6-
15 3
1 4 60m
2 4+ 70m
3 4 90m
4 5 70m
5 5+ 60m
6 6- 60m
7 5 50m
8 4 60m
9 4 50m

Mostly moderate climbing (grade 4-5) with a long and nice dihedral as the crux section. The climbing is mostly made up of dihedral formations and knobby slab sections. A 70 meter-rope & a running belay was used on easier parts of the first ascent. Using a shorter rope would probably increase the number of pitches to about 15, but there are plenty of opportunities for good belays on the whole route.

Some images here:

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A post shared by Andreas Widlund

FA: Andreas Widlund & Ane Ottemo Gärtner, Sep 2019

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