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Showing 1 - 100 out of 222 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Langøya Frøskelandsveggene
{FB} 5 Karius og Baktus Boulder
Langøya Trollskåla Venstre
FR:6a+ Obelix Sport
Langøya Trollskåla Hovedveggen
FR:6a+ Litt næmere sannheten Sport
Langøya Trollskåla Høyre
FR:6a+ Stomperud Trad
Lofoten Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Bunesfjorden Bunessanda Ausodden Boulder C
5A Sashimi Boulder
Lofoten Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Bunesfjorden Bunessanda Hidden tent
5 Corner Boulder
Lofoten Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Bunesfjorden Bunessanda Big Mama
5 Wrong side of the block Boulder
Lofoten Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Marklitinden
6 AID:A1 Hungry Eyes
1 2
2 3+
3 5
4 5
5 5+
6 5
7 6
8 6-
9 6 A1
10 6
11 5+

FA: Lukas Marecek & Jiří Švihálek, 2009

Trad 400m, 11
Lofoten Moksnesøya Reineburger
FR:6a+ Nobody's River

Climb the inside corner, tricky move just before the end.

FA: Paul White, 5 Sep 2016

Top rope 8m
Lofoten Moksnesøya Ølkontinden
6 Looks can be Deceiving Trad
Lofoten Moksnesøya Reinesvaet
6 The American Tourist Trad
6 Nonchalance Trad 8
Lofoten Flakstadøya Ramberg The boulders Beach boulder
5 Not how to surf Boulder
5 In love with surfing Boulder
Lofoten Flakstadøya Ramberg The boulders Skagsanden Boulder A
5 Jabbsaft Boulder
Lofoten Flakstadøya Ramberg The boulders Skagsanden Boulder B
5 Nameless Boulder
Lofoten Flakstadøya Ramberg The boulders Skagsanden Boulder D
5 Sis et bro Boulder
5 Nameless Boulder
Lofoten Flakstadøya Flakstadpollen Ting & Tang
5 Medan du sov Boulder
Lofoten Flakstadøya Flakstadpollen Fråste-Eggen
5 Ville vesten Boulder
Lofoten Flakstadøya Flakstadpollen Langneset-Buldern
5 Nameless #25 Boulder
Lofoten Flakstadøya Stortind
6 Øst pillaren Trad 8
Lofoten Vestvågøy Gimsøya Gimsøymyren Crocodile Dundee
5 Flash bandicoot Boulder
Lofoten Vestvågøy Smorten Game of Drones
5 Nameless Boulder
Lofoten Vestvågøy Smorten Low
5 Kolmen minuutin muna Boulder
Lofoten Vestvågøy Justad Kartneset Excalibur
5 Nordøstryggen Boulder
Lofoten Vestvågøy Sand
5 Nameless 3 Boulder
Lofoten Vestvågøy Unstad Fjollejalla
6 The outset

The left route.

Sport 35m
6 Podieplass Sport 35m
Lofoten Vestvågøy Uttakleiv Syd Yttersia
5 Yttersia Boulder
Lofoten Vestvågøy Uttakleiv Syd ABS
5 Dap Potentiale Boulder
Lofoten Vestvågøy Uttakleiv Syd Storm music
5 Tar & feather Boulder
Lofoten Vestvågøy Uttakleiv Syd Torstein´s rail
5 Nameless #8 Boulder
Lofoten Vestvågøy Uttakleiv Nord Halvmånen
5 Halvmånen Boulder
Lofoten Vestvågøy Uttakleiv Nord Svenneprøven
5 Svennerævva Boulder
Lofoten Vestvågøy Uttakleiv Nord Vegglusen
5 Nordsva Boulder
Lofoten Austvågøy Brenna Boulder C
5 Lazy Feather Boulder
Lofoten Austvågøy Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders Stem Bastensen Gilette
5 På go vei
Boulder
Lofoten Austvågøy Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders Stem Bastensen Fotogenetikk
5 Nameless #39
Boulder
Lofoten Austvågøy Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders Stem Bastensen Blackstar
5 Winter hours
Boulder
5 Suckers in Spain
Boulder
Lofoten Austvågøy Lyngvær Lyngvær Boulders Stem Bastensen White block
5 Runde tak
Boulder
5 Forsvaret
Boulder
Lofoten Austvågøy Lyngvær White Slab
6 At dawn, we ride
1 6- 30m
2 6 25m
3 6 50m
4 4+ 50m
5 5- 30m

A line tackling slabs and cracks up the left arete. A nice introduction to Lofoten rock offering good jamming and slab climbing, large belay ledges & with the exception of P1, bolted belays.

The route can be rapped with 2 x 60m ropes.

  1. Climb the crack system on the arete to a large slanting ledge under the roof. 30m

  2. Pull up over the roof, following the crack until it runs out. Traverse right 2m, then up a short slab on crimps to a double bolt belay on another large ledge. 25m

  3. Traverse right then over a bulge, following this crack until it disappears. From here, continue up 5m of slab to the next crack system which leads to another bolted belay on a small ledge. 50m

  4. Easier climbing straight up, then right out onto arete & up to the next large ledge & bolted belay. 50m

  5. Follow cracks and slabs up and slightly left to bolted belay at a small stance. 30m

FA: Vegard With Stennes, Charlie Long & Philip Curry

Trad 190m, 5
Lofoten Austvågøy Rørvika Upper Wall
6 BB King was Wrong (the Thrill isn't Gone)
Trad
6 Fugledansen
Trad
Lofoten Austvågøy Pianokrakken The boulders Oceanside minnerisset Boulder B
5A Kysttorsken
Boulder
5A Skreimesteren
Boulder
Lofoten Austvågøy Pianokrakken The boulders Donkey Kong Boulder A
5A Orchids or Kids
Boulder
Lofoten Austvågøy Pianokrakken Sørfjellet
6 Tyngre enn du tror
1 4+
2 4
3 6
4 5+
Trad 4
Lofoten Austvågøy Pianokrakken Maurpillaren
6 Kjærlighetens kjøtere

FA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Arild Meyer, 1996

Trad
6 Hankatten
Trad
6 Pizzatyven
1 5- 30m
2 5- 25m
3 6 12m
4 5 15m
5 5+ 18m

FA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Thorbjørn Enevold, 1995

Trad 100m, 5
Lofoten Austvågøy Pianokrakken West Face
6 Svaclownen

FA: Fredrik Rapp & Martin Jakonsson

Trad 2
6 Pianogolvet

FA: Fredrik Rapp & Bobo Gustavsson, 2009

Trad
6 Pianisten
1 6 35m
2 4+ 20m
3 6 35m
4 2 20m

FA: Kjell Skog, 1979

Trad 110m, 4
Lofoten Austvågøy Pianokrakken South Face
6 Sorte Orm
Trad
6 Kongens hjørne
Trad
Lofoten Austvågøy Pianokrakken Svenskeveggen
6 Frøken Sverige
Trad 14m
Lofoten Austvågøy Djupfjord The boulders Rock Shapes Boulder A
5A Fill in
Boulder
Lofoten Austvågøy Djupfjord Bare blåbær
6 Thiras Mirith
1 4
2 6
3 6
4 4+
  1. 26m

  2. 44m

  3. 50m

  4. 45m

FA: Odd-Roar Wilk & et al, 1993

Trad 170m, 4
6 Triumfbuen
1 4-
2 5-
3 6
4 5-
5 5
6 5+
7 3
  1. 40m

  2. 45m

  3. 55m

  4. 18m

  5. 35m

  6. 55m

  7. 20m

FA: Leif Magnussen, Jørgen Aamont, Stein Moller & Lena Dahl, 2008

Trad 270m, 7
Lofoten Austvågøy Djupfjord Pillaren (Point 713m)
6 Elgfesten

FA: Odd-Roar Wilk & Niels Poulsen, 1992

Trad 7
Lofoten Austvågøy Djupfjord Two Faces Buttress
6 Mandragora
1 4 25m
2 6 55m
Trad 80m, 2
6 Dr. Jekyll

Mixed slab climbing. Rumour has know one really knows who´s Dr jekyll & who´s Mr Hyde..

FA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Trond Solberg, 1999

Trad 55m
Lofoten Austvågøy Djupfjord Sjøsvaet
6 Solens sønner
1 5+ 35m
2 6 50m
3 5 30m
4 5 30m

A mixed route characterised by safe but runout slab climbing

FA: Ed Webster & Odd-Roar Wiik, 1993

Mixed trad 150m, 6
6 Månens døtre
1 6- 24m
2 5+ 30m
3 5+ 30m
4 6 55m

FA: Ed Webster & Johan Sandberg, 1993

Mixed trad 140m, 4, 5
Lofoten Austvågøy Presten Corridor boulders Boulder C
5 Easy Peasy Boulder
Lofoten Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder A
5 Stive støvler Boulder
5 Kjell Oves vegg Boulder
Lofoten Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder C
5 Fiskerisset Boulder
Lofoten Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder L
5 Skjult sprekk Boulder
Lofoten Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder N
5 Tin foil Boulder
5 Baking paper Boulder
Lofoten Austvågøy Presten Presten
6 Ypperstepresten
1 6- 45m
2 5 42m
3 6 30m
4 5- 45m
5 3- 60m

This route can easily be done in 3 pitches to storhylla by stretching the first belay to a stance close to the roof (55m) and pitch 2 until one of the good ledges above the roof (45/50m). This avoids rope drag and bad communication for the roof pitch (P2).

Protection is good (heart in the book dates back to before micro cams/totems)

FA: Bengt Flygel Nilsfors & Aart Verhage, 1992

Trad 220m, 5
6 Vestpillaren
1 5+ 45m
2 6- 40m
3 6 45m
4 5- 25m
5 4 30m
6 6- 45m
7 6 45m
8 5+ 40m
9 6 45m
10 4+ 30m
11 5 35m
12 3 55m

Classic line heading up the full height of Presten. Starts on right side of main face, about 20m left of a steep choked gully. Abseil retreat possible with two ropes without leaving gear up to end of pitch 4.

  1. Up centre of three shallow corners, then traverse left to crack which leads to a small ledge with a chain belay to the right.

  2. Follow groove then up to flake/block on the left. Continue into a thin finger-crack and continuation to bolt/chain belay.

  3. Up the narrow groove then left up a diagonal ramp to bolt/chain belay.

  4. Short wall and groove then up to bolt/chain belay. This pitch can be linked into the following with careful rope management.

  5. Move up to right of large block and follow cracks to belay on top of block.

  6. Up thin cracks/grooves to a good ledge, then traverse 20m left (some rope drag and loose rock) to belay on a higher ledge in base of groove.

  7. Follow groove and flake until it becomes a thin crack, then step left into a parallel crack system. Continue up into a left-facing groove to belay above a bulge in the corner.

  8. Continue up the groove then right into slabby groove. Belay on either of two ledges at the base of the 'Slanting Corner'.

  9. The 'Slanting Corner'. Up the clean groove to tiny ledge, then trend left before heading right (can be climbed direct, but harder). Below up right at large block.

  10. Up left across ledges to a large loose flake jammed in a groove. Climb carefully up past the flake, then continue left up a chimney groove and below at its top, below open groove.

  11. Follow the open groove up and right to its top, then move down and right for several metres, before traversing horizontally right. Make delicate moves around right into the grassy exit gully.

  12. Scramble up grassy gully to top.

FA: Arild Meyer & Finn Tore Bjørnstad, 1980

Trad 480m, 12
Lofoten Austvågøy Presten Harley Davidson Wall
6 Massor av kubik Trad
6 Easy Rider and the Fat Boy Trad
Lofoten Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf boulders Boulder A
5 Riss Boulder
Lofoten Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main
6 Tynne ting Trad 35m
6 Gamle rev
1 6 45m
2 6 60m

FA: Ed Webster & Thorbjørn Enevold, 1993

Trad 110m, 2
6 Tromsø ekspressen
1 6 40m
2 6 30m
3 5 25m

FA: Håvard Nesheim & Sjur Nesheim, 1979

Trad 95m, 3
6 Gandalf and Rose

A straight line using 2 classic routes. Start this combination climbing the 1st pitch on Gandalf. Thereafter, climb the 2nd and 3rd pitch of Guns and Roses.

Trad 100m, 3
6 Rolling Stone
1 5+ 45m
2 6 35m
3 5 15m
Trad 95m, 3
6 AID:A3 Souhalia Andrawes
1 A2 20m
2 A3 15m
3 A2 20m
4 6 25m
Aid 80m, 4
Lofoten Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Upper
6 Grus i øgat Trad 15m
Lofoten Austvågøy Festvåg Lille Festvåg
6 Myror i ballorn

FA: Rick McGregor, 2000

Trad 20m
Lofoten Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg
6 Johan Boyer
1 5+ 40m
2 6 35m

FA: Thorbjørn Enevold, Morten & Trond Solberg, 1992

Trad 75m, 2
6 Den siste viking
1 5 20m
2 6 45m
3 5 25m

Pitch 2 is nice but sandbagged (may not be the original line?)

FA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Lutta Fagerli, 1992

Trad 90m, 3
6 Luksusdyret
1 5 25m
2 6 40m
3 5 25m
Trad 90m, 3
6 Lundeklubben
1 6- 35m
2 6 35m
3 5+ 20m

FA: Arild Meyer, 1992

Trad 90m, 3
6 Straight Albatross
1 5+ 20m
2 6 45m
3 6- 25m

FA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Lutta Fagerli, 1992

Trad 90m, 3
6 Wandering Albatross
1 6- 35m
2 6 35m
3 6- 25m

FA: Ed Webster & Tormod Klepper, 1993

Trad 95m, 3
Lofoten Austvågøy Nipen Senior veggen
6 Still hard Trad
Lofoten Austvågøy Nipen Junior veggen
FR:6a+ Vanskelig Sport
Lofoten Austvågøy The Coast Time is a disaster
6 Rally English

This route starts in the right hand side of the cave on the arete below the obvious wide crack. Bring big gear (#3 to #5). The FAs recommend rapping from the first pitch (fixed gear)

  1. Climb the wide crack to a ledge. 30m

  2. Climb up from the right hand side of the ledge via a flake then LF corner before steeping right to a small ledge. 7m

  3. Grassy ramp leads up to the right and rapped from slings.

FA: Alan Goldbetter & Emily Wetzel, 2017

Trad 55m, 3
Lofoten Austvågøy The Coast Kvandalstind Østryggen
6 Swedish-kiwi route

A little further up the valley from One move wonder, this route ascends the tower forming the base of Kvandalstinds Eastern ridge.

FA: Ted Ekberg & Ian Gough, 2012

Trad 6
Lofoten Austvågøy Paradiset The boulders The Tao-Te Circuit
{FB} 5 Tao-Te

FA: Matthias Huber, 1992

Boulder
Lofoten Austvågøy Paradiset The boulders Billetten
{FB} 5A Svaeggen Boulder
Lofoten Austvågøy Paradiset Dammen
6 Venstre risset direkte Trad

Showing 1 - 100 out of 222 routes.

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