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Routes in Nordland for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 443 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
6+/7-
Ofoten Hamarøy Tysfjord og Efjorden Rundtind
6+/7- Stay Cool

Route description and topo available from Norsk Tindeklubb

FA: Ondrej Švilhálek & Jiri Švilhálek, 2010

Trad 450m, 10
Ofoten Skjomdalen Gangnesaksla
6+/7- Reindeer Spotting

The route is situated in the next big buttress to the north of route ”Påskeeggen” on Gangesaksla ENE face. Follow shore or do the approach by boat.

Very nice long route offering good variety of climbing corners, splitter cracks and slabs. Excellent rock quality, little vegetation and loose rock (except on ledges and ramps) gives an enjoyable and interesting tour with difficulties no more than grade 6 plus a few metres of thin hands crack which probably go free around 6+/7-. Some little run-outs <5m are encountered, but they are pretty straight forward with one exception: pitch 9 being a little bit more complex.

The lower part (p 1-15) of the route consists of dihedrals and cracks with occassional slab cruxes in between. Pitches 7-13 are especially nice. After p 15 there is a super big ledge with snow and water running from the right side.

The upper part is easy going and more open offering a nice promenade with most of the Skjomen fjord as a beutiful backdrop and Frostisen glacier coming into sight as the height is gained. Start by climbing weird structures inside of wide crack/gully which splits the face. Continue climbing this for about 200 metres or 3-4 pitches. In the uppermost part after coming out of the crack/gully system the climbing goes little by little diagonally left to top out almost at the left corner of the whole rock face.

FA: Samuli Pekkanen & Jaana Ylipelto, 21 Aug 2015

Trad 1000m, 20
6+ AID:A2
Lofoten Austvågøy Kalle-området Øvredalen Lille Vågakallen
6+ AID:A2 Sweet Home Moravia Trad 7
6+ AID:A1
Ofoten Hamarøy Hamarøyskaftet
6+ AID:A1 Hammer og sigd
1 6+ 45m
2 A1 30m
3 A1 50m

FA: Nicholas Ashton & Jan Helge Furnesvik, 2001

Trad 130m, 3
6+ AID:A1 PROT:R
Lofoten Austvågøy Kalle-området Trolldalen
6+ AID:A1 PROT:R Til ungdommen
1 5+ 35m
2 6 R 30m
3 6 A1 25m
4 6+ 40m
5 5 40m

Located on the North face of Lille Vågakallen. Line starts up the right hand side of the prominant black streak.

Descend via 3 rapps

FA: Odd-Roar Wiik, 2008

Trad 170m, 5
6+ AID:A0
Ofoten Skjomdalen Lappviktinden
6+ AID:A0 Lapplunk
Trad
Lofoten Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg
6+ AID:A0 To drone or not to drone
1 6
2 6+ A0
3 5-

Steep climbing to the left of Ole Johnny tribute.

FA: Sofie Eriksson & Rune Harjo Jensen, 28 Jul 2021

Trad 3
6+
Helgeland Bjærangen og Sætertindane
6+ Muskedunder
1 3
2 3
3 5+
4 5+
5 6-
6 6+
7 5
8 5-
9 5-
10 6-
11 5
12 6-
13 5+

Tackles the black streaked South Pillar of Særtertindan

Trad 600m, 14
Salten Bodø Fugløya Småtinden
6+ Stølsdokken-prosjekt
Trad
Salten Bodø Fugløya Hagtind
6+ Famliebånd
1 6- 40m
2 6- 20m
3 6+ 40m
4 6- 55m
Trad 160m, 4
6+ Omveien
Trad 25m
6+ Disponenten
Trad 60m, 2
6+ The Prow
Trad
Salten Bodø Fugløya Ramntind-området
6+ Peregrins seilas
Trad 80m, 2
6+ Spurprim
Trad 80m, 2
6+ Elev ved ramnens flygeskule
Trad 80m, 2
6+ Dronningstolen
Trad 25m
6+ Kveldsbønn
Trad 170m, 4
6+ Zorro
Trad 70m
6+ Lysset
Trad 35m
6+ Godstoget
Trad
6+ Balanseruta
Trad
6+ TV2 hjelper deg
Trad 25m
6+ Ekstreme gangster
Trad 35m
6+ Vermeldinga
Trad 35m
6+ Fox Mulder
Trad 20m
6+ Gorgenes hevn
Trad
Salten Bodø Priekstoltinden
6+ Pilt Trad
6+ Gorgon
1 6
2 6+
Trad 2
Ofoten Hamarøy Tysfjord og Efjorden Stetind
6+ Toujours être ailleurs

Follows crack system to the right of Vesteggen

FA: Vincent Cellier & Vincent Bouchet, 2006

Trad 15
6+ Vestveggen vinterrute

The original line was first climbed in winter and starts in the same position as Vestveggen, following a more direct path sightly left of Vestveggen and slightly right of the defining large blocks which lean into the West Face.

Stated in the guidebook as having easier route finding and better climbing, it´s actualy neither of those things; Expect just as nice climbing with just as difficult route finding!

FA: Bengt Flygel Nilsfor, Øystein Gravrok & Ole Thomas Gjærum, 1994

Trad 8
Ofoten Skjomdalen Kuinarčohkka
6+ Bruvoll-Wegge
1 4-
2 4-
3 6-
4 6+
5 5
6 5-
7 3
8 6-
9 3
10 6
11 5+
12 5
13 4+
14 2

Pic from NTK here

FA: Stian Bruvoll & Håkon Wegge, 2022

Trad 500m, 14
Ofoten Narvik Haugfjellet Kjerringveggen
6+ Escalade feminine

The cracked wall left of corner with historic piton protecting crux, otherwise new bolts. Anchor bolts will need retrieving via walk down

Sport 10m
Lofoten Austvågøy Northeast Stormolla
6+ Ukjent 4
Trad
Lofoten Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita
6+ Englevinger
1 6 30m
2 6+ 35m
3 6+ 20m
  1. Clip the bolt & traverse right across the slab to gain the crack. When the angle eases take the crack left & follow this to a good ledge below the steep finger crack in the dihedral.

  2. Climb the finger crack up to, then over the roof. It´s nicer to belay on the ledge in the col than directly below the P3 crack (& keeps you away from anyone climbing 1910 Ruta or Forsida.

  3. Traverse up over detached pillar then down & left for about 3 metres, then up the gradually widening crack. A #3 needed, #4 nice.

FA: Ed Webster, Arild Meyer & Odd-Roar Wiik, 1993

Mixed trad 85m, 3, 1
Lofoten Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret
6+ Svenske Diedret

The aesthetic dihedral. Takes small wires

FA: Some Swedes, 1980

Trad 20m
Lofoten Austvågøy The Coast Time is a disaster
6+ Chick Corea
1 5- 15m
2 6- 30m
3 6+ 20m
4 5- 40m
  1. Chimney up to a stance on some birches.

  2. Climb outwards and up to a ledge then stem both sides of the cave facing the sea reaching a crack leading out of the cave.

  3. The steep crack to a stance in a corner.

  4. Slanting corner to a crack leading upwards to a ledge.

Big cams nice to have (#5, #6)

FA: Sofie Nordvik & Sindre Nordhagen, Jul 2023

Trad 110m, 4
Lofoten Austvågøy Djupfjord Bare blåbær
6+ Bare blåveis
1 6 35m
2 6+ 46m
3 5- 40m
4 4 45m
5 4 30m

FA: Rolf Bae, Robert Casperson, Jonas Dahlstrup & Eiliv Ruud, 2008

Trad 200m, 5
Lofoten Austvågøy Pianokrakken
6+ Kangshungrisset
1 6 30m
2 6+ 30m

FA: Ed Webster & Knut Fausa Storvik, 1994

Trad 60m, 2
6+ Nøttebus
1 5+
2 6+
3 6+

FA: krister jonsson & Hanna Falkestrøm, 1996

Trad 3
Lofoten Austvågøy Pianokrakken Maurpillaren
6+ Mjölkmustasch

FA: Fredrik Rapp & Ola Modeer, 2007

Trad
6+ Ingen sommerferie
1 5- 25m
2 6- 25m
3 6 12m
4 6+ 10m

FA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Neils Poulsen, 1995

Trad 72m, 4
Lofoten Austvågøy Pianokrakken Housewives
6+ Home boy

FA: Martin Jakobsson & Fredrik Rapp, 2011

Trad
6+ PROT:R
Lofoten Austvågøy Vågakallen
6+ PROT:R The midnight butterfly
1 6 R 35m
2 5+ 35m
3 5- 35m
4 6+ 45m
5 5+ 30m
6 6 45m
7 6+ 45m

A top50 line in the guidebook. Reports from parties repeating indicate it´s a bit of an adventure route.

FA: Tapio Alhonsuo & Mira Alhonsuo, 2014

Trad 270m, 7
Lofoten Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Branntuva
6+ PROT:R Sound of waves

Bold slab climbing. There´s a topo here.

AAC article with a description here

FA: Lukas Marecek & Jirí Svihálek, 2009

Trad 450m
6/6+
Salten Bodø Kjerringøy Strandåtind
6/6+ Sult Trad 7
6+ AID:A3
Lofoten Austvågøy Kalle-området Kallebukta Cornflakesveggen
6+ AID:A3 Von viel Hilft veil Trad 2
Lofoten Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Helvetestinden
6+ AID:A3 Thirst in the clouds

An abandoned Arild Meyer line completed by a Russian team with some aid in 2009. Topo here

FA: Orujov Alex & et al, 2009

Trad 16
6+ AID:A2
Lofoten Austvågøy Northeast Lillemolla
6+ AID:A2 Lofoten Panorama Trad 300m, 10
6+ AID:A1
Lofoten Austvågøy Kalle-området Trolldalen Trollfestningen
6+ AID:A1 Swedish Highway Blues
Trad
Lofoten Austvågøy Kalle-området Trolldalen Trolltrappen
6+ AID:A1 Øldarris
Trad 4
Lofoten Austvågøy Vågakallen
6+ AID:A1 Søring variant Trad
Lofoten Austvågøy The Coast Migan pillaren
6+ AID:A1 Heaven and hell
1 6- 50m
2 5 40m
3 6+ A1 30m
4 6+ 45m
5 5 55m
6 6+ 65m
7 4 30m
8 4 40m
9 4 30m
10 4 40m
11 4

FA: Filip Zahradnik & Radovan Kunc, 2011

Trad 430m, 11
Lofoten Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Merraflestinden
6+ AID:A1 Kor e hammaren Edvard

Topo here

FA: Jonas Tetlie & Knut Storvik, 2002

Trad 14
6+ AID:A0
Ofoten Narvik Haugfjellet Svaplattan
6+ AID:A0 Fotball er dumt
Mixed trad 55m, 2, 10
Lofoten Austvågøy The Coast Migan pillaren
6+ AID:A0 Migan pillaren
1 6- 45m
2 5 45m
3 6- 40m
4 6 45m
5 6+ 45m
6 5 30m
7 6 55m
8 6+ A0 40m

There appears to be a couple of errors in the guidebook topo and description (P2, P3, P5). The pitch description below is what made sense to us with a 60m rope.

  1. Start in the crack to the left of the corner, when this ends trend right up to a good ledge

  2. Cracks, then face climbing leads to a small ledge

  3. Up then slightly right before continuing up to top of the flake

  4. Head out left in the horizontal crack then straight up a glorious hand crack

  5. Wander up then right to the base of corner. Venture up the jungle crack to a ledge. Maybe N5+ if cleaned? Felt like sweaty 6+

  6. Head right then up cracks to a large belay ledge

  7. Up the finger crack, trend slightly left then up the corner to ledge below the final roof pitch

  8. Up then traverse left under the roof

FA: Arild Meyer & Odd-Roar Wilk, 1995

Trad 350m, 8
6+
Salten Bodø Fugløya Ramntind-området
6+ Syltetøying
Trad 2
Salten Bodø Blåfjell
6+ Catch it Trad
6+ Miraculix‘ sigd Trad
6+ Niagara og Nirvana Trad
Salten Bodø Nordsia Helikopterveggen
6+ Saltakitten Sport 6
Salten Bodø Nordsia Rødvinsfeltet
6+ Solimonte Direct

Mixed route

Mixed trad 25m, 4
6+ Clarete Selecto

Mixed route

Mixed trad 25m, 4
Salten Bodø Nordsia Nybruddet
6+ Klamme henda Sport 25m
Salten Bodø Nordsia Tømmerveggen
6+ Steinbra Sport 7
6+ Flisespikkeri Sport 5
Salten Bodø Nordsia Kvitnebbet
6+ Mitt lille land Sport 2
Salten Bodø Nordsia Bratthammaren Svasektoren
6+ La pøblene tenke og helvete er løs Sport
Salten Bodø Nordsia Bratthammaren Halvsjusektoren
6+ Halvsju Sport
Salten Bodø Nordsia Veslefeltet Innslihammeren Pillaren
6+ Innslipillaren
1 6+ 30m
2 5 40m

Mixed first pitch, trad for pitch 2. Bolted anchors. Descend by rapping route (37m & 30m)

Sport 70m, 2
Salten Bodø Sjunkhatten
6+ Sørpillaren
1 4 35m
2 5+ 45m
3 3 45m
4 6- 45m
5 5- 35m
6 6 55m
7 6+ 45m
8 6+ 55m
9 5+ 20m
10 4 70m
Trad 450m, 10
Salten Steigen Reka
6+ Reka Sport
Ofoten Hamarøy Sleppen Ungdomsveggen
6+ Oppfostra på sid

FA: Knut Høivaag, 2006

Sport
6+ Presist Fotarbeid

FA: Eva Trønnes, 2006

Sport
6+ Skolebenken

FA: Eva Trønnes, 2006

Sport
Ofoten Hamarøy Sleppen Sector #5
6+ 3
Sport
Ofoten Hamarøy Sleppen Lekeveggen
6+ Kosesprekken

FA: Knut Høivaag, 2006

Sport
6+ Laksetrappa

FA: Mathias Haukås, 2006

Sport
Ofoten Hamarøy Sleppen Hovedveggen
6+ Trine og Knut, siste paret ut

FA: Eva Trønnes, 2006

Sport
6+ Steinspranget

FA: Knut Høivaag, 2006

Sport
Ofoten Hamarøy Tysfjord og Efjorden Eidetind
6+ Blodrod Septembernatt Trad 600m, 16
Ofoten Hamarøy Tysfjord og Efjorden Stetind
6+ Lundahl-Selin
Trad 15
6+ Vestveggen
1 4 60m
2 6 55m
3 6- 55m
4 4 15m
5 6 15m
6 6+ 50m
7 4 55m
8 5 45m
  1. The route starts near two large blocks and right of the 2 large square roofs in a corner. This pitch trends gently right to a large ledge (stor hylle). Build your belay in the corner to your right.

  2. Take the LF groove until it´s possible to traverse right into a RF groove. Traverse right again when the LF corner becomes visible to a belay on a small ledge. Routefinding can be a little tricky. It helps to aim for the roof below the LF dihedral.

  3. Head out left & up the parallel cracks.

  4. Short pitch to the base of the finger crack.

  5. Climb the short but great finger crack to a stance

  6. The ´devils dance floor´ pitch traverses out right then up the RF corner to a ledge on your left.

  7. Trend gently left via the path of least resistance to a ledge. Walk left & build your belay in the corner below a gently right trending finger crack. Not the best rock on this pitch.

  8. Up the finger crack then step left and follow cracks & grooves to the ridge

It´s a further 300m of mellow ridge scrambling to access Vestveggen. The P1 OW is a very obvious marker.

Route description & topo

Some images here:

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Philip Curry (Philip C)

FA: Anders Lundhal & Eva Selin, 1980

Trad 350m, 8
Ofoten Skjomdalen Stiberg
6+ Slaverekken

FA: Steinulv Aarebrot, 1991

Trad 35m
6+ Lady

70m left of Crack-a-go-go. Follows a right trending groove; take some small cams & nuts.

FA: Jørn Bjerk, 2008

Trad
Ofoten Narvik Svartdalen Main Area
6+ Counting the days

FA: A. Stålnacke, Fredrik Hansson & Rick McGregor, 2005

Trad 55m
6+ Gangsterparadiset
Sport
6+ Skitnödig
Sport
Ofoten Narvik Svartdalen Skytebanen
6+ Vårkänsla
Trad
6+ The asscrack jammers
Trad
Ofoten Narvik Haugfjellet Tverrfjellet
6+ Astronomy Domine
Trad
Ofoten Narvik Haugfjellet Svaplattan
6+ Flyktvägen

Mixed route. A diagonal crack leads to a slab finish

Mixed trad 30m, 5
Ofoten Narvik Haugfjellet Kjerringveggen
6+ Frosken
Sport 20m
Ofoten Narvik Kleivhøgda
6+ Mer psyke
Trad
Lofoten Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Hjørnet
6+ Sko and garn

Mixed route that rejoins Ninjarisset at the top

Trad
6+ Den fantastastiske Mikkel rev Trad
Lofoten Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Kveldskosen / Dama Dablam
6+ Dama Dablam Trad
Lofoten Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Demonstranten
6+ Demo Route Trad
Lofoten Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Living in Paradise
6+ A Cry in the Dark Trad 22m
6+ Ayers Rock Trad 20m

Showing 1 - 100 out of 443 routes.

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