Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
6+/7- | |||||
Ofoten Hamarøy Tysfjord og Efjorden Rundtind | |||||
6+/7- | Stay Cool
Route description and topo available from Norsk Tindeklubb FA: Ondrej Švilhálek & Jiri Švilhálek, 2010 | 450m, 10 | |||
Ofoten Skjomdalen Gangnesaksla | |||||
6+/7- | Reindeer Spotting
The route is situated in the next big buttress to the north of route ”Påskeeggen” on Gangesaksla ENE face. Follow shore or do the approach by boat. Very nice long route offering good variety of climbing corners, splitter cracks and slabs. Excellent rock quality, little vegetation and loose rock (except on ledges and ramps) gives an enjoyable and interesting tour with difficulties no more than grade 6 plus a few metres of thin hands crack which probably go free around 6+/7-. Some little run-outs <5m are encountered, but they are pretty straight forward with one exception: pitch 9 being a little bit more complex. The lower part (p 1-15) of the route consists of dihedrals and cracks with occassional slab cruxes in between. Pitches 7-13 are especially nice. After p 15 there is a super big ledge with snow and water running from the right side. The upper part is easy going and more open offering a nice promenade with most of the Skjomen fjord as a beutiful backdrop and Frostisen glacier coming into sight as the height is gained. Start by climbing weird structures inside of wide crack/gully which splits the face. Continue climbing this for about 200 metres or 3-4 pitches. In the uppermost part after coming out of the crack/gully system the climbing goes little by little diagonally left to top out almost at the left corner of the whole rock face. FA: Samuli Pekkanen & Jaana Ylipelto, 21 Aug 2015 | 1000m, 20 | |||
6+ AID:A2 | |||||
Lofoten Austvågøy Kalle-området Øvredalen Lille Vågakallen | |||||
6+ AID:A2 | ★ Sweet Home Moravia | 7 | |||
6+ AID:A1 | |||||
Ofoten Hamarøy Hamarøyskaftet | |||||
6+ AID:A1 | Hammer og sigd
1
6+
45m
2
A1
30m
3
A1
50m
FA: Nicholas Ashton & Jan Helge Furnesvik, 2001 | 130m, 3 | |||
6+ AID:A1 PROT:R | |||||
Lofoten Austvågøy Kalle-området Trolldalen | |||||
6+ AID:A1 PROT:R | Til ungdommen
1
5+
35m
2
6 R
30m
3
6 A1
25m
4
6+
40m
5
5
40m
Located on the North face of Lille Vågakallen. Line starts up the right hand side of the prominant black streak. Descend via 3 rapps FA: Odd-Roar Wiik, 2008 | 170m, 5 | |||
6+ AID:A0 | |||||
Ofoten Skjomdalen Lappviktinden | |||||
6+ AID:A0 | Lapplunk
| ||||
Lofoten Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | |||||
6+ AID:A0 | To drone or not to drone
1
6
2
6+ A0
3
5-
Steep climbing to the left of Ole Johnny tribute. FA: Sofie Eriksson & Rune Harjo Jensen, 28 Jul 2021 | 3 | |||
6+ | |||||
Helgeland Bjærangen og Sætertindane | |||||
6+ | Muskedunder
1
3
2
3
3
5+
4
5+
5
6-
6
6+
7
5
8
5-
9
5-
10
6-
11
5
12
6-
13
5+
Tackles the black streaked South Pillar of Særtertindan | 600m, 14 | |||
Salten Bodø Fugløya Småtinden | |||||
6+ | Stølsdokken-prosjekt
| ||||
Salten Bodø Fugløya Hagtind | |||||
6+ | Famliebånd
1
6-
40m
2
6-
20m
3
6+
40m
4
6-
55m
| 160m, 4 | |||
6+ | Omveien
| 25m | |||
6+ | Disponenten
| 60m, 2 | |||
6+ | The Prow
| ||||
Salten Bodø Fugløya Ramntind-området | |||||
6+ | ★★ Peregrins seilas
| 80m, 2 | |||
6+ | Spurprim
| 80m, 2 | |||
6+ | Elev ved ramnens flygeskule
| 80m, 2 | |||
6+ | Dronningstolen
| 25m | |||
6+ | Kveldsbønn
| 170m, 4 | |||
6+ | ★★ Zorro
| 70m | |||
6+ | Lysset
| 35m | |||
6+ | Godstoget
| ||||
6+ | Balanseruta
| ||||
6+ | TV2 hjelper deg
| 25m | |||
6+ | ★★ Ekstreme gangster
| 35m | |||
6+ | ★★ Vermeldinga
| 35m | |||
6+ | ★★ Fox Mulder
| 20m | |||
6+ | Gorgenes hevn
| ||||
Salten Bodø Priekstoltinden | |||||
6+ | Pilt | ||||
6+ | Gorgon
1
6
2
6+
| 2 | |||
Ofoten Hamarøy Tysfjord og Efjorden Stetind | |||||
6+ | ★★ Toujours être ailleurs
Follows crack system to the right of Vesteggen FA: Vincent Cellier & Vincent Bouchet, 2006 | 15 | |||
6+ | ★★★ Vestveggen vinterrute
The original line was first climbed in winter and starts in the same position as Vestveggen, following a more direct path sightly left of Vestveggen and slightly right of the defining large blocks which lean into the West Face. Stated in the guidebook as having easier route finding and better climbing, it´s actualy neither of those things; Expect just as nice climbing with just as difficult route finding! FA: Bengt Flygel Nilsfor, Øystein Gravrok & Ole Thomas Gjærum, 1994 | 8 | |||
Ofoten Skjomdalen Kuinarčohkka | |||||
6+ | Bruvoll-Wegge
1
4-
2
4-
3
6-
4
6+
5
5
6
5-
7
3
8
6-
9
3
10
6
11
5+
12
5
13
4+
14
2
Pic from NTK here FA: Stian Bruvoll & Håkon Wegge, 2022 | 500m, 14 | |||
Ofoten Narvik Haugfjellet Kjerringveggen | |||||
6+ | ★★ Escalade feminine
The cracked wall left of corner with historic piton protecting crux, otherwise new bolts. Anchor bolts will need retrieving via walk down | 10m | |||
Lofoten Austvågøy Northeast Stormolla | |||||
6+ | Ukjent 4
| ||||
Lofoten Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita | |||||
6+ | ★★★ Englevinger
1
6
30m
2
6+
35m
3
6+
20m
FA: Ed Webster, Arild Meyer & Odd-Roar Wiik, 1993 | 85m, 3, 1 | |||
Lofoten Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret | |||||
6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret
The aesthetic dihedral. Takes small wires FA: Some Swedes, 1980 | 20m | |||
Lofoten Austvågøy The Coast Time is a disaster | |||||
6+ | Chick Corea
1
5-
15m
2
6-
30m
3
6+
20m
4
5-
40m
Big cams nice to have (#5, #6) FA: Sofie Nordvik & Sindre Nordhagen, Jul 2023 | 110m, 4 | |||
Lofoten Austvågøy Djupfjord Bare blåbær | |||||
6+ | ★★★ Bare blåveis
1
6
35m
2
6+
46m
3
5-
40m
4
4
45m
5
4
30m
FA: Rolf Bae, Robert Casperson, Jonas Dahlstrup & Eiliv Ruud, 2008 | 200m, 5 | |||
Lofoten Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||
6+ | ★ Kangshungrisset
1
6
30m
2
6+
30m
FA: Ed Webster & Knut Fausa Storvik, 1994 | 60m, 2 | |||
6+ | ★★ Nøttebus
1
5+
2
6+
3
6+
FA: krister jonsson & Hanna Falkestrøm, 1996 | 3 | |||
Lofoten Austvågøy Pianokrakken Maurpillaren | |||||
6+ | ★★ Mjölkmustasch
FA: Fredrik Rapp & Ola Modeer, 2007 | ||||
6+ | ★★ Ingen sommerferie
1
5-
25m
2
6-
25m
3
6
12m
4
6+
10m
FA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Neils Poulsen, 1995 | 72m, 4 | |||
Lofoten Austvågøy Pianokrakken Housewives | |||||
6+ | ★ Home boy
FA: Martin Jakobsson & Fredrik Rapp, 2011 | ||||
6+ PROT:R | |||||
Lofoten Austvågøy Vågakallen | |||||
6+ PROT:R | ★★★ The midnight butterfly
1
6 R
35m
2
5+
35m
3
5-
35m
4
6+
45m
5
5+
30m
6
6
45m
7
6+
45m
A top50 line in the guidebook. Reports from parties repeating indicate it´s a bit of an adventure route. FA: Tapio Alhonsuo & Mira Alhonsuo, 2014 | 270m, 7 | |||
Lofoten Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Branntuva | |||||
6+ PROT:R | Sound of waves
Bold slab climbing. There´s a topo here. AAC article with a description here FA: Lukas Marecek & Jirí Svihálek, 2009 | 450m | |||
6/6+ | |||||
Salten Bodø Kjerringøy Strandåtind | |||||
6/6+ | Sult | 7 | |||
6+ AID:A3 | |||||
Lofoten Austvågøy Kalle-området Kallebukta Cornflakesveggen | |||||
6+ AID:A3 | Von viel Hilft veil | 2 | |||
Lofoten Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Helvetestinden | |||||
6+ AID:A3 | Thirst in the clouds
An abandoned Arild Meyer line completed by a Russian team with some aid in 2009. Topo here FA: Orujov Alex & et al, 2009 | 16 | |||
6+ AID:A2 | |||||
Lofoten Austvågøy Northeast Lillemolla | |||||
6+ AID:A2 | Lofoten Panorama | 300m, 10 | |||
6+ AID:A1 | |||||
Lofoten Austvågøy Kalle-området Trolldalen Trollfestningen | |||||
6+ AID:A1 | Swedish Highway Blues
| ||||
Lofoten Austvågøy Kalle-området Trolldalen Trolltrappen | |||||
6+ AID:A1 | Øldarris
| 4 | |||
Lofoten Austvågøy Vågakallen | |||||
6+ AID:A1 | Søring variant | ||||
Lofoten Austvågøy The Coast Migan pillaren | |||||
6+ AID:A1 | Heaven and hell
1
6-
50m
2
5
40m
3
6+ A1
30m
4
6+
45m
5
5
55m
6
6+
65m
7
4
30m
8
4
40m
9
4
30m
10
4
40m
11
4
FA: Filip Zahradnik & Radovan Kunc, 2011 | 430m, 11 | |||
Lofoten Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Merraflestinden | |||||
6+ AID:A1 | Kor e hammaren Edvard
FA: Jonas Tetlie & Knut Storvik, 2002 | 14 | |||
6+ AID:A0 | |||||
Ofoten Narvik Haugfjellet Svaplattan | |||||
6+ AID:A0 | ★★ Fotball er dumt
| 55m, 2, 10 | |||
Lofoten Austvågøy The Coast Migan pillaren | |||||
6+ AID:A0 | ★★ Migan pillaren
1
6-
45m
2
5
45m
3
6-
40m
4
6
45m
5
6+
45m
6
5
30m
7
6
55m
8
6+ A0
40m
There appears to be a couple of errors in the guidebook topo and description (P2, P3, P5). The pitch description below is what made sense to us with a 60m rope.
FA: Arild Meyer & Odd-Roar Wilk, 1995 | 350m, 8 | |||
6+ | |||||
Salten Bodø Fugløya Ramntind-området | |||||
6+ | ★★ Syltetøying
| 2 | |||
Salten Bodø Blåfjell | |||||
6+ | Catch it | ||||
6+ | ★ Miraculix‘ sigd | ||||
6+ | ★ Niagara og Nirvana | ||||
Salten Bodø Nordsia Helikopterveggen | |||||
6+ | Saltakitten | 6 | |||
Salten Bodø Nordsia Rødvinsfeltet | |||||
6+ | Solimonte Direct
Mixed route | 25m, 4 | |||
6+ | Clarete Selecto
Mixed route | 25m, 4 | |||
Salten Bodø Nordsia Nybruddet | |||||
6+ | Klamme henda | 25m | |||
Salten Bodø Nordsia Tømmerveggen | |||||
6+ | Steinbra | 7 | |||
6+ | Flisespikkeri | 5 | |||
Salten Bodø Nordsia Kvitnebbet | |||||
6+ | Mitt lille land | 2 | |||
Salten Bodø Nordsia Bratthammaren Svasektoren | |||||
6+ | ★ La pøblene tenke og helvete er løs | ||||
Salten Bodø Nordsia Bratthammaren Halvsjusektoren | |||||
6+ | ★ Halvsju | ||||
Salten Bodø Nordsia Veslefeltet Innslihammeren Pillaren | |||||
6+ | ★ Innslipillaren
1
6+
30m
2
5
40m
Mixed first pitch, trad for pitch 2. Bolted anchors. Descend by rapping route (37m & 30m) | 70m, 2 | |||
Salten Bodø Sjunkhatten | |||||
6+ | Sørpillaren
1
4
35m
2
5+
45m
3
3
45m
4
6-
45m
5
5-
35m
6
6
55m
7
6+
45m
8
6+
55m
9
5+
20m
10
4
70m
| 450m, 10 | |||
Salten Steigen Reka | |||||
6+ | ★★ Reka | ||||
Ofoten Hamarøy Sleppen Ungdomsveggen | |||||
6+ | Oppfostra på sid
FA: Knut Høivaag, 2006 | ||||
6+ | Presist Fotarbeid
FA: Eva Trønnes, 2006 | ||||
6+ | ★ Skolebenken
FA: Eva Trønnes, 2006 | ||||
Ofoten Hamarøy Sleppen Sector #5 | |||||
6+ | ★ 3
| ||||
Ofoten Hamarøy Sleppen Lekeveggen | |||||
6+ | Kosesprekken
FA: Knut Høivaag, 2006 | ||||
6+ | Laksetrappa
FA: Mathias Haukås, 2006 | ||||
Ofoten Hamarøy Sleppen Hovedveggen | |||||
6+ | Trine og Knut, siste paret ut
FA: Eva Trønnes, 2006 | ||||
6+ | ★★ Steinspranget
FA: Knut Høivaag, 2006 | ||||
Ofoten Hamarøy Tysfjord og Efjorden Eidetind | |||||
6+ | ★★ Blodrod Septembernatt | 600m, 16 | |||
Ofoten Hamarøy Tysfjord og Efjorden Stetind | |||||
6+ | ★★ Lundahl-Selin
| 15 | |||
6+ | ★★★ Vestveggen
1
4
60m
2
6
55m
3
6-
55m
4
4
15m
5
6
15m
6
6+
50m
7
4
55m
8
5
45m
It´s a further 300m of mellow ridge scrambling to access Vestveggen. The P1 OW is a very obvious marker. Some images here: View this post on Instagram FA: Anders Lundhal & Eva Selin, 1980 | 350m, 8 | |||
Ofoten Skjomdalen Stiberg | |||||
6+ | ★★ Slaverekken
FA: Steinulv Aarebrot, 1991 | 35m | |||
6+ | Lady
70m left of Crack-a-go-go. Follows a right trending groove; take some small cams & nuts. FA: Jørn Bjerk, 2008 | ||||
Ofoten Narvik Svartdalen Main Area | |||||
6+ | Counting the days
FA: A. Stålnacke, Fredrik Hansson & Rick McGregor, 2005 | 55m | |||
6+ | Gangsterparadiset
| ||||
6+ | ★★ Skitnödig
| ||||
Ofoten Narvik Svartdalen Skytebanen | |||||
6+ | Vårkänsla
| ||||
6+ | The asscrack jammers
| ||||
Ofoten Narvik Haugfjellet Tverrfjellet | |||||
6+ | ★ Astronomy Domine
| ||||
Ofoten Narvik Haugfjellet Svaplattan | |||||
6+ | ★★ Flyktvägen
Mixed route. A diagonal crack leads to a slab finish | 30m, 5 | |||
Ofoten Narvik Haugfjellet Kjerringveggen | |||||
6+ | Frosken
| 20m | |||
Ofoten Narvik Kleivhøgda | |||||
6+ | Mer psyke
| ||||
Lofoten Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Hjørnet | |||||
6+ | ★ Sko and garn
Mixed route that rejoins Ninjarisset at the top | ||||
6+ | Den fantastastiske Mikkel rev | ||||
Lofoten Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Kveldskosen / Dama Dablam | |||||
6+ | Dama Dablam | ||||
Lofoten Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Demonstranten | |||||
6+ | Demo Route | ||||
Lofoten Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Living in Paradise | |||||
6+ | A Cry in the Dark | 22m | |||
6+ | ★★★ Ayers Rock | 20m |