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Routes in Northern Norway for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 218 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Nordland Langøya Trollskåla Venstre
5 Sofaruta Sport
Nordland Langøya Trollskåla Overhenget
5 Dieder Sport
Nordland Langøya Trollskåla Hovedveggen
5 Ytterside Trad
Nordland Langøya Trollskåla Høyre
5 Sophie´s 2nd rute Trad
Nordland Lofoten Moksnesøya Reineburger
{FR} 4 That time you got chased by an angry Norvegian farmer

Follow the obvious crack up the inside corner. Easy to protect. Beware the thin flake.

FA: Luca De Giorgi, 5 Sep 2016

Trad 8m
Nordland Lofoten Moksnesøya Reinesvaet
5 Sea Breeze Trad
5- Aanie Onyoo Trad 10
Nordland Lofoten Flakstadøya Ramberg The boulders Beach boulder
4 At least I can swim Boulder
Nordland Lofoten Flakstadøya Ramberg The boulders Idyllsteinen
4 Syndere i sommersol Boulder
Nordland Lofoten Vestvågøy Gimsøya Storknubben
4 To the crow´s nest Boulder
Nordland Lofoten Vestvågøy Stamsund
5 Big Belly Route Sport
5 Walk in the park Sport
5 Foxy Lady Sport
5 Rock and roll slide Sport
5 Lemon squeezy

Located in the far right corner.

Sport 15m
Nordland Lofoten Vestvågøy Haveren
5 WI4 Første gang Ice 5
Nordland Lofoten Vestvågøy Unstad Unstad Syd
4 Flash factor Boulder
Nordland Lofoten Vestvågøy Uttakleiv Syd Frem og tilbake
4 Til topps Boulder
Nordland Lofoten Vestvågøy Uttakleiv Syd Sjøveggen
4 Sjøveggen Boulder
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Rørvika Upper Wall
5 Losing my religion
Trad
5 Queen of Rock 'n' Roll
Trad
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Rørvika Lower Wall Lower Wall Right
5 Jeg håper Scottys hus brenner ned

From the arete, follow the left trending crack until it ends. Traverse around the arete into excellent jamming in a corner then follow easy angled slab to the summit.

FA: Vegard With Stennes & Philip Curry, 2 Oct 2019

Trad 35m
5 Røyskatten

Trend left from Høstdrømmen towards the RF corner system. When this end following a thinner crack system out right to rejoin Høstdrømmen.

FA: Kjetil Andersen & Philip Curry, 7 Oct 2019

Trad 30m
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Pianokrakken Sørfjellet
5- Sauegjerderyggen
Trad
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Pianokrakken West Face
5 Fremdeles Tapir
Trad 2
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Pianokrakken Svenskeveggen
5 Ångermanland

Big cam handy

FA: Rick McGregor, 2015

Trad
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Djupfjord Coley Smoke
5 Coley Smoke
1 4
2 5
3 5-
4 5-
  1. 30m

  2. 30m

  3. 30m

  4. 30m

FA: Nick Ashton, Glenn Henry & David Musgrove, 1998

Trad 120m, 4
5 Children playing

FA: Jonas Dahlstrup, 2012

Trad 2
5- Rännesnärja

FA: Fredrik Rapp, 2007

Trad 5
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Djupfjord Bare blåbær
5- Bare Blåbær
  1. 26m

  2. 34m, P1/P2 can easily be linked.

  3. 32m

  4. 28M

  5. 40m, Most people climb right to the abseil & bail from here to avoid the final (average) pitches & the rope eating flake above.

  6. 40m

  7. 48m

FA: Tim Hansen & Ingun Raastad, 1986

Trad 240m, 7
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Djupfjord Djupfjord Buttress
5 AID:A1 The best of nothing
Trad
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder B
4 Stigen Boulder
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder C
4 Flaket Boulder
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder D
4 Baugetaket Boulder
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder N
4 Crocs Boulder
4 Badekaret Boulder
4 Havfruen Boulder
4 Copy cat Boulder
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main
5- Lost Gandalf
1 5- 40m
2 5- 40m
3 5- 25m
  1. Starts a few metres left of Smeagul in the grassy crack & up to the black ledge where you move right over to the Gollum belay.

  2. As for Gollum.

  3. As for Gollum.

Trad 110m, 3
5 Gollum
1 5
2 5-
3 5-

Beautiful series of cracks. Very easy to protect. Comfortable belay stances and descent on foot.

In the guidebook, the first pitches of Gollum and Smeagul are reveresed. Gollum starts at the top of the block.

FA: Arild Meyer & Sjur Nesheim, 1985

Trad 110m, 3
5 Gandalf's kamin
1 5 40m
2 4 20m
3 5- 50m

As for Gandalf, Gollum or Lost Gandalf then move over to the base of the orange chimney (kamin)

Trad 110m, 3
5 Gandalf
1 5 40m
2 5- 35m
3 5- 25m

A classic & the first route to dry on the wall

FA: Arild Meyer, 1978

Trad 100m, 3
5 Gun's and Gandalf
1 5
2 5-
3 5-

A nice alternative for anyone wanting to climb Gandalf with a pack

  1. As for Guns n' Roses (40m)

  2. As for Gandalf (35m)

  3. As for Gandalf (25m)

Trad 100m, 3
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Nipen Senior veggen
5 Hjemmepleiern Trad
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Nipen Junior veggen
FR:4b Doffen Sport
FR:4b Puffen Sport
FR:4b Puffing Sport
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy The Coast Hamlet Wall
5 Frozen in Time Trad
5 Tamnavulin Trad
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy The Coast Time is a disaster
5- Time is a Disaster
1 4+ 40m
2 5- 40m
3 4+ 10m

FA: Nigel Redshaw & Alex Pearce, 2005

Trad 90m, 3
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy The Coast Kvandalstind Østryggen
5 One move wonder

Ascends up to Eastern ridge of Kvandalstinden. Marginally nicer to boulder hop your way here from Kalle (aiming for valley between Vågakallen/Kvandalstinden). The route starts up the boulder field on the right of a grassy ledge below a hand crack.

FA: Ted Ekberg & Ian Gough, 2012

Trad 6
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Paradiset The boulders Boulder D
4B Håndløs Boulder
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Paradiset The boulders Boulder E
4B Rissveggen Boulder
4B Hei og hå Boulder
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Paradiset Dammen
5 Krabbe Trad
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Paradiset Dosethrisset
5- Sva magen
1 4+
2 5-
3 3
Trad 3
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Paradiset Main Cliff
5 Stormvarsel Trad
5 Orkan Trad
5 Heavy Weather Trad
5 Værvarsel Trad
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Paradiset Svenske diedret
5 Liten diagonal Trad 10m
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Paradiset Butter Arms
5 Butter Fingers Direct Trad
5 Butter Fingers

Nice sequence of easy craks and a bit of slab.

Trad 30m
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Paradiset Storsvaet
5- Bunkered paradise Trad
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Paradiset Living in Paradise
5 Living in Paradise Trad 20m
5 Lost in Paradise Trad
5 Lost in living Trad
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Paradiset Demonstranten
5 Demonstranten direkte Trad
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Trolldalen Outlying
5 AID:A2 Tranedansen
Trad
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Sandvika Skårungen
5 Skårungens Dans Sport
5 Stopp en Haal! Sport
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Tjeldbergtind Hjørnet
5 Risset Trad
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Finnvika Finnvika Boulders Finnvika East
4 Vaskedama Boulder
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Svolvær Blåtinden
5 Frosken Trad
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Svolvær Svolværgeita
5 Rapellruta
1 5 28m
2 4+ 20m
Trad 48m, 2
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Northeast Ptarmigan Slabs Hellskardnuten
5 Where Puffins Dare

Located on the wall across the gully from the guidebook routes. The route tackles the entire wall via slabs & dihedral climbing. The FAs suggest a single rack to #3 plus wires.

FA: David Kozak, 2017

Trad 370m, 10
Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Northeast Rulten
5- Østryggen (austra Rulten) Trad
5- Østryggen (venstre Rulten) Trad
Nordland Ofoten Leirvik Hovedveggen
5- Route 2 Sport 10m
Nordland Ofoten Leirvik Barbaveggen
5 Diederet Trad
Nordland Ofoten Haugfjellet Kjerringveggen
5 Lazy bird Sport
5 So What

Mixed route

Trad
Nordland Ofoten Haugfjellet Sol och bad klippan
5 Kapsten Trad 15m
5 Romancing the stone Trad 15m
Nordland Ofoten Haugfjellet Svaplattan
5- Steppgubbens dotter

Mixed route on the left side of the slab

Trad 30m
5- Prinsessen och Kalimero Trad
Nordland Ofoten Haugfjellet Tverrfjellet
5 Humlebaeck Trad
5 Bumblebee Beezlebub Trad
Nordland Ofoten Svartdalen Øvre Svartdalen
5 Hjørnedans Trad
Nordland Ofoten Skjomdalen Stiberg
5 En ring av selvtillit

FA: Thorbjørn Enevold, 1980

Trad
Nordland Ofoten Kuinarčohkka
5- Sydveggen Trad 20
5 Nordvestveggen Trad 15
Nordland Ofoten Storsteinsfjellet
5 AID:A1 Middle summit west face Trad 11
Nordland Ofoten Tysfjord og Efjorden Kugelhorn
5- Østkammen

The most popular route to the summit is well protected, moderately graded & in an absolutely fantastic setting. A nice day of moving in the mountains with a great mountaineering vibe.

  1. N3-

  2. N4+

  3. N4-

  4. N4+

  5. N5-

Trad 5
Nordland Ofoten Tysfjord og Efjorden Eidetind Sydøstveggen
5 Ljus Nat Trad 6
5- Regnkampen Trad
5 Sagostunden

5 pitches to the last rapp station. Bail from here or continue to the summit via klubbruta

Trad 5
5- Eidbush Trad 5
Nordland Salten Sleppen Hovedveggen
5 Livet på Eggen Sport
5 Jaktfalken Sport

Showing 1 - 100 out of 218 routes.

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