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Description

The old guidebook is available from the Nasjonalbiblioteket

Approach

You can catch a train from Oslo to Åndalsnes, which is just a few kilometres hike from the Troll Wall.

Where to stay

There are many hotels and guesthouses at Åndalsnes, just a few kilometres away from Troll Wall. There are also a few mountain huts in the surrounding mountains.

History

History timeline chart

The first ascent of the Troll Wall was in 1965 by a Norwegian Team consisting of Ole Daniel Enersen, Leif Norman Patterson, Odd Eliassen and John Teigland who summited one day before the Great Britain Team. Over the years, many different routes of various difficulty have been established, with grades ranging from the A3 Sleepwalkers route to the A4+ Arch Wall.

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Routes

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Grade Route

The Troll Wall is the largest vertical rock face in Europe. The rock is a type of rock called gneiss. The rock has been formed into a broken rock wall with huger corners,concave roofs and cracks, with a number of spires and pinnacles on the summit rim. The rock is loose and prone to rockfalls.

FA: Halvor Hagen-Kyrre Ostbo, 1996

1 3 120m
2 5 70m
3 4+ 30m
4 5+ 50m
5 7 60m
6 5- 55m
7 5+ 40m
8 5 50m
9 6- 60m
10 5- 35m
11 5+ 60m
12 5- 60m
13 6- 55m
14 6 50m
15 4+ 45m
16 6 40m
17 6 55m
18 6+ 60m
19 5 50m
20 6- 30m
21 6- 30m
22 5 55m
23 5+ 60m
24 6- 60m
25 5+ 55m
26 3 35m
27 5 65m
28 4 55m
29 6- 35m
30 6 60m

One of the lines seeing repeats. As with most experiences on Trollveggen, not many seem to recommend. There´s a topo in the guidebook with the crux 5th pitch now going free at Norwegian grade 7.

There´s quite a bit of content out there on those interwebs >>

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A short by Pete Whittaker

FA: Leif Pettersen, Odd Eliassen, John Teigland & Ole Enersen, 1965

FFA: Sindre Sæther & Ole Johan Sæther, 2008

UKC interview with a description of the route here and Planet Mountain article here

FA: Marcin Tomaszewski & Marek Raganowicz, 2015

Description of the FA here

FFA: Sindre Sæther & Ole Johan Sæther, 2012

The route was freed in 2009

FA: Yves Boussard, Jerome Brunet, Patrick Cordier, Claude Deck & Jean Frehel, 1967

FFA: Sindre Sæther & Ole Johan Sæther, 2009

Topo

FA: Yuri Koshelenko & Alexandr Ruchkin, 1997

The line was freed in 2010

FA: Ed Drummond & Hugh Drummond, 1972

FFA: Ole Johan Sæther & Sindre Sæther, 2010

FA: O. Vadla & L. Magnusen, 1985

Now considered a variation of both Raspberry Dream and Svenskruta.

FA: P. Xavier Porta, J. Grau & JC Castevelli (Spanish), 1986

FA: L.G. Johansson & T. Hilsson, 1978

FA: Japanese team, 1986

FFA: Aslak Aastorp, Oyvind Vadla & K Klementsen, 1987

FA: A. Howard, J. Amatt & B. Tweedale, 1965

FFA: Hans Christian Doseth & Ragnild Amundsen, 1979

FFA: HC Doseth & Masakuzu Fujiwara (Japanese climber who seconded the whole route), 1982

FA: Hans Christian Doseth, Choe Brooks, Havard & Sjur Nesheim, 1982

FA: Aslak Aastorp, Oyvind Vadla, Bernt Pedersen & Oystein Bardsnes, 1986

The first route up the wall. A British team wrote a great disaster-piece novel about their experience.

In 2019, the line was skied by Killian Jornet

FA: Arne Randers Heen & Eirik Heen, 1931

FA: Joe Brown & Tom Patey, 1967

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Activity

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