Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5- | ★★★ Bare Blåbær
1
4
26m
2
5-
34m
3
5-
32m
4
5-
28m
5
5-
40m
6
5-
40m
7
4-
48m
P1/P2 can easily be linked & helps speed things up on busy summer days. It´s also common to climb right at P5 to the abseil line, as the final pitches are not of the same quality & it´s common for the rope to get snagged on the flake above FA: Tim Hansen & Ingun Raastad, 1986 | 250m, 7 | Lofoten | ||
7- | ★★★ Venstre
Starts same place as Høyre, but continues left and traverses across Senterpartiet before finishing upwards and slightly left. Clips the third anchor from the right, to the left of the big crack at the top. Has its own bolts all the way. FA: Dag Kolsrud, 1988 | 20m | Hauktjern | ||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren
1
5+
45m
2
6-
40m
3
6
45m
4
5-
25m
5
4
30m
6
6-
45m
7
6
45m
8
5+
40m
9
6
45m
10
4+
30m
11
5
35m
12
3
55m
Classic line heading up the full height of Presten. Starts on right side of main face, about 20m left of a steep choked gully. Abseil retreat possible with two ropes without leaving gear up to end of pitch 4.
FA: Arild Meyer & Finn Tore Bjørnstad, 1980 | 480m, 12 | Lofoten | ||
7+/8- | ★★★ Rød front | 25m | Løkenhavna | ||
5 | ★★★ Gandalf
1
5
40m
2
5-
35m
3
5-
25m
A classic & the first route to dry on the wall FA: Arild Meyer, 1978 | 100m, 3 | Lofoten | ||
7/7+ | ★★★ Pinslibeisen
FA: Trond Pinsli & Bjørn Myrer Lund, 1987 | 25m | Hellerud | ||
6 | ★★ Veslemus
| 17m | Fetsund | ||
7/7+ | ★★★ Baker for smed
| 23m | Drammen | ||
7- | ★★ Høyre
The route at the very right on this piece of rock. To keep the grade one should stay on the arete at the crux, and not go too far left. FA: Dag Kolsrud, 1990 | 20m | Hauktjern | ||
9- | ★★ Øgletryne
FA: Dag Kaada, 1996 | 12m, 6 | Hordaland | ||
6- | ★★ Hennes og Maur
FA: Tone Tinnes, 1991 | 12m | Løkenhavna | ||
5 | ★★★ Gollum
1
5
2
5-
3
5-
Beautiful series of cracks. Very easy to protect. Comfortable belay stances and descent on foot. In the guidebook, the first pitches of Gollum and Smeagul are reveresed. Gollum starts at the top of the block. FA: Arild Meyer & Sjur Nesheim, 1985 | 110m, 3 | Lofoten | ||
7 | ★★★ Tut og kjør
FA: Dag Kolsrud, 1992 | 26m, 10 | Hordaland | ||
{FR} 8b | ★★★ Glastonburyekspressen
Set: Christopher Glastonbury, 6 Jun 2016 FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 11 Oct 2016 | 15m, 10 | Blæsa | ||
{NWG} FR:6b+ | ★★★ Hoggtanna
Left side of the obvious arete when you approach the crag. FA: Øystein M. K. Johnsen, 1997 | 18m, 6 | Hammer'n | ||
6- | ★ Kvalifiseringen
Route in the big crack between Snikene Kommer and Batman. Bolts to the right of the crack. FA: Thomas Horgen, 2015 | 20m | Drammen | ||
4+ | ★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute
1
4
35m
2
4+
20m
3
4+
20m
4
4+
10m
5
4+
20m
Popular because of the Top50 tag in the guidebook, this is a winding, disjointed line that makes communicating with your partner difficult. Will possibly feel like a hard 4+ if your not used to jamming. Ant Line on Maurpillaren, Gollum on Gandalf wall or many of the routes at Paradiset or Rørvika Lower Wall Right make for more enjoyable introductions to Lofoten climbing. FA: Arild Meyer, Kjell Skog & Ulf Prytz, 1971 | 110m, 5 | Lofoten | ||
7+ | ★★ Brun skjorte | 25m | Løkenhavna | ||
{NWG} FR:6b | ★★ Imsdal
Right side of the 'Hoggtanna' arete. FA: Runar Carlsen, 1997 | 20m, 6 | Hammer'n | ||
{UIAA} 4 | ★★★ Via Lara
1
4-
50m
2
4-
50m
3
4-
50m
4
4
50m
5
4
50m
6
4-
50m
7
3+
50m
FA: U. Wilkening & T. Metscher, 1988 | 350m, 7 | Nissedal | ||
4+ | ★★★ Hollywood | 30m | Kolsås | ||
7/7+ | ★★ Gjemmekontor
New route (2020) between Rød Front and Brun skjorte. FA: Arne Sæten & Kjell Sæten, 2020 | 20m | Løkenhavna | ||
7- | ★ Full av hormoner
FA: Leif Håvar Kvande, 1990 | 20m | Hellerud | ||
7- | ★★ Sånn-ja
FA: Dag Kolsrud, 1987 | 20m | Hauktjern | ||
5+ | ★★ Den enbeinte bandit
FA: Bernt Ove Reinertsen, 1994 | 16m, 7 | Hordaland | ||
{NWG} FR:6a+ | ★ Hufsa
Grade set according to latest updated book which is Climb Norway. FA: Tuva Solvang & Synne Hestvik, 2016 | 20m | Hammer'n | ||
7- | ★★★ Hell Aldersheim
FA: Hans Olav Næss, 1994 | 20m | Hell | ||
{NWG} FR:6a+ | ★★ Stomperud
The route used to be trad (and is still a nice trad climb), but has been bolted in recent years. FA: Dag Revelsby | 15m | Hammer'n | ||
8 | ★★★ Susis Sovepose
FA: Per Hustad, 1987 | 15m | Drammen | ||
5 | ★ Erkenntnis
Downgraded 2019. FA: Olav Vestlie, 2014 | 17m | Kolsås | ||
6+ | ★ Sloppy Joe
FA: Kolbjørn Hillestad, 1988 | 13m | Drammen | ||
7- | ★★ Mr. Fyffes
FA: Olav Vestlie, 2014 | 19m | Kolsås | ||
7+/8- | ★★★ Prosessen
FA: Leif Inge Magnussen, 1991 | 25m | Hauktjern | ||
7- | ★ Dypøkologi
Up into the dihedral. Downgraded 2019. FA: Olav Vestlie, 2014 | 20m | Kolsås | ||
FR:7c+ | ★★★ Perler for svin
Set: Svein Gjermundsen, 8 Jun 2016 FFA: Lars Ottar Halvorsen, 1 Jun 2017 | 13m, 8 | Blæsa | ||
6b | ★★ Whiskeykongen
FA: Anders Melkevold, 2002 | 23m | Beachen | ||
5- | ★ Vakre skyer
FA: Olav Vestlie, 2014 | 11m | Kolsås | ||
5+ | ★★★ Forsida
1
3+
20m
2
4
16m
3
5
30m
4
5
30m
5
5+
20m
FA: B.Bommen & B.Lyche, 1928 | 120m, 5 | Lofoten | ||
FR:4a | ★★ Lazy
Some rocks may seem a bit loose. Might need some attention after winter 2020. Grade set according to latest updated book which is Climb Norway. FA: Gate Aarbakke Solaas, 2008 | 20m, 10 | Hvalsberget | ||
6 | ★ Seksergruppa
FA: Olav Vestlie, 2014 | 20m | Kolsås | ||
8- | ★★ Svenskedødaren
FA: Per Hustad, 1987 | 15m | Drammen | ||
6 | ★★★ Gamle rev
1
6
45m
2
6
60m
FA: Ed Webster & Thorbjørn Enevold, 1993 | 110m, 2 | Lofoten | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★ Halvparten av to
FA: Renate Sjøberg, 2013 | 14m | Utsikten | ||
5+ | ★ Tøffelhelten
FA: Leif Håvar Kvande, 1989 | 18m | Hellerud | ||
6+ | ★★ Gandhi
New route on the arete between Dypøkologi and Mr. Fyffes. FA: Olav Vestlie | 22m | Kolsås | ||
6- | ★★ Halvfeten
| 14m | Fetsund | ||
5+ | ★★ Vått og gått
FA: Ågot Caroline Nilssen, 2006 | 15m, 4 | Hordaland | ||
6c | ★★ Hovdegjengen
FA: Oscar Hovde Berntsen | Flatanger | |||
6 | ★★ Forsvinningsnummeret
FA: Helge Dønvold & Harald Brændshøi, 1985 | 25m | Hauktjern | ||
{NWG} FR:6b+ | ★★ Skreller'n
FA: Ørnulf Berthinussen, 2011 | 22m, 11 | Hammer'n | ||
7+ | ★★ Vegglus
| 17m | Drammen | ||
FR:6a | ★ Pippi Langstrømpe
Grade set according to latest updated book which is Climb Norway. Oslo guide has this at NWG:6- FA: Trine Alsgaard, 2008 | 20m, 13 | Hvalsberget | ||
7/7+ | ★★ Himmelstigen | 15m, 8 | Blæsa | ||
8- | ★★ Vatan Import
FA: Jacob Norman, 1990 | 12m | Løkenhavna | ||
FR:5b | ★★ Avancia
Grade set according to latest updated book which is Climb Norway. Oslo guide has this at NWG:5- FA: Nina Hessen, 2008 | 20m | Hvalsberget | ||
6- | ★★ Olavsrisset
FA: Petter Gaarder & Inger Marie Østby, 1976 | 20m | Hauktjern | ||
5+ | ★★ YESSS!
Two variants. Keeping to the left is slightly easier (5). FA: Maria Algers Bakken, 2013 | 10m, 6 | Drammen | ||
7+ | ★★ Panserkarakter
FA: Jacob Normann, 2014 | 13m | Kolsås | ||
7a | ★★★ Kakestykket
FA: Pål Benum Reiten | 30m, 15 | Flatanger | ||
7+ | ★★ Feten
Same start as Jacobs Disipler, but goes left and up after the first good ledge. A direct version with a harder start was bolted in 2018, which is probably grade 7a+ (French). | 17m | Fetsund | ||
8- | ★★ Rå makt
FA: Leif Inge Magnussen, 1988 | 15m | Drammen | ||
5 | ★ Tenk en gang til
FA: Olav Vestlie, 2014 | 15m | Kolsås | ||
{NWG} FR:5b | ★ Giratina
FA: Tom Johannessen, 2009 | 13m, 5 | Hammer'n | ||
7+ | ★★ Stjålet
| 17m | Drammen | ||
6 | ★ Ohlson på taket
FA: Olav Vestlie, 2014 | 20m | Kolsås | ||
6- | ★ Fractura Dens
FA: Olav Vestlie, 2014 | 18m | Kolsås | ||
4+/5- | ★ Trollgryte
New route (2020) on the upper left side of the crag. Starts just right of a big round hole in the wall (a giant's kettle/"jettegryte"). FA: Andreas Skarderud, 27 May 2020 | 9 | Skullerud | ||
6+ | ★★★ Uten Ansvar
FA: Frank Arild Krohn, 2006 | 15m, 5 | Hordaland | ||
8- | ★★ Karlsenmysteriet
FFA: Jimmy Karlsen, 31 May 2016 | 14m, 7 | Blæsa | ||
5 | ★★ Badefugl
FA: Gregar Barikmo, 2006 | 13m, 4 | Hordaland | ||
5 | ★ Wissenshaft
FA: Olav Vestlie, 2014 | 18m | Kolsås | ||
7+ | ★ Syvende Sans
FA: Dag Kolsrud | 10m | Løkenhavna | ||
5 | ★★★ Bolt Junkie
FA: Sonia og Jan Petter Brenfelt, 2002 | 35m, 20 | Hauktjern | ||
5- | ★ Fra ute til inne-kurs
FA: Alexander Cintelli, 2019 | 6 | Skullerud | ||
FR:4c | ★ Emilstigen
Grade set according to latest updated book which is Climb Norway. Oslo guide has this at NWG:5- FA: Erik H. Moen, 2008 | 20m, 11 | Hvalsberget | ||
7+ | ★ Heksejakta
FA: Ole Mentzoni, 1990 | 20m | Hellerud | ||
7- | ★★ Sosiale Ferdigheter
FA: Yrjan Schnell Brun, 2006 | 15m, 5 | Hordaland | ||
7- | ★★ Spetsnaz | 20m | Kolsås | ||
7 | ★ Senterpartiet
Starts to the left of both Venstre and Høyre, and goes more or less straight up. Clips the second anchor from the right, between Venstre and Høyre. FA: Dag Kolsrud, 1988 | 20m | Hauktjern | ||
7 | ★★ Snikene kommer
Set: Jeppe Grüner, 1998 | 22m | Drammen | ||
FR:6b | ★★★ Lumbago
FA: Tore Fonn & Jørn Wikerholmen, 2002 | 27m | Drammen | ||
6 | ★★ Jazzens mystikk og mysterier
FA: Halvor Dannevig, 2006 | 15m, 7 | Hordaland | ||
{NWG} FR:4a | ★ Tertitten
FA: Tom Johannessen, 2009 | 13m, 5 | Hammer'n | ||
4+ | ★ Kørsåsruta
FA: Olav Vestlie, 2014 | 11m | Kolsås | ||
FR:4b | ★★ I muldvarpens rike
Grade set according to latest updated book which is Climb Norway. Oslo guide has this at NWG:4+ FA: Lin Veronica Wagelid, 2008 | 17m, 9 | Hvalsberget | ||
FR:4a | ★★ Kamikaze
Grade set according to latest updated book which is Climb Norway. Oslo guide has this at NWG:4 FA: Lillian Dramsdahl & Erik H. Moen, 2011 | 19m, 9 | Hvalsberget | ||
6+ | ★★ Rubens kube | 20m | Kolsås | ||
5 | ★ Tvergastein
FA: Olav Vestlie, 2014 | 16m | Kolsås | ||
8- | ★★ en glad laks
FA: Frank Sæthre, 1991 | 15m, 6 | Hordaland | ||
{NWG} FR:6a | ★ Petra
Grade set according to latest updated book which is Climb Norway. FA: Jørn Glenne, 2016 | 15m | Hammer'n | ||
6 | ★★ Odin margin
Start at the chalked jugs and up the crack line to double bolt anchor. FA: Magne Nyhus, 1987 | 15m | Drammen | ||
7+/8- | ★★★ Kaptein jazz
| 25m | Drammen | ||
7+ | ★★★ Jacobs disipler
| 17m, 8 | Fetsund | ||
8 | ★★ Sadisco
FA: Einar Broch Johnsen, 1991 | 10m | Løkenhavna | ||
FR:6a+ | ★★ Måsadotten
The height is estimated to 30m. A 60m rope works just enough when you get back down as long as you unclip on your way down. Grade set according to latest updated book which is Climb Norway. Oslo guide has this at NWG:6 FA: Simen Rønning, 2008 | 30m | Hvalsberget | ||
6- | ★★★ Skiløperen
FA: Arild Meyer & Thorbjørn Enevold, 1992 | 40m | Lofoten | ||
8 | ★★★ Vri åtter
FA: Dag Kolsrud, 1990 | 25m | Hauktjern | ||
{FR} 6b+ | ★ På krykker
FA: Liv Tollånes, 2013 | 14m, 7 | Utsikten | ||
6 | ★★ Lombardia
On the left side of the freestanding rock, following the left arete and then up the face on the right of the arrete. You can use the wall on the left too, until you have to traverse out right. Has its own anchor at the top of the face. FA: Alexander Cintelli, Mar 2020 | 15m, 8 | Skullerud | ||
FR:5b | ★★ August
Grade set according to latest updated book which is Climb Norway. Oslo guide has this at NWG:5- FA: Rune Fredrik Jensen, 2008 | 20m, 8 | Hvalsberget |