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Routes

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Grade Route

The main wall is steep & sandbagged. The crown jewel of Kvaløya climbing.

1 5 50m
2 5+ 50m
3 6 40m
4 6 30m
5 7- 40m

Shared start with Run Amok before breaking slightly left at the pitch 3 roof. From the ground, aim for the left edge of the halvmånen formation.

FA: Håvard Nesheim & Sjur Nesheim, 1985

1 6
2 6

Alternate easier finish to Grax. Half way up pitch 3, head straight up into the big dihedral (instead of trending left). The final pitch takes an easy crack on the right (several options possible).

1 5 55m
2 6- 60m
3 6+ 55m
4 5 50m

Thin jamming via the left-most crack through halvmånen

FA: Tim Hansen & Halgeir Nyheim, 1986

1 5 50m
2 6- 60m
3 7+ R 60m
4 5 40m

Free variaton to Ragnorok with a long, thin & serious third pitch to avoid the pendulum. Several finger size friends, some small RPs and a mico cam or two are recommended in the guidebook.

FA: Mårten Blixt, Petter Restorp & Øystein Andresen, 2000

1 5 55m
2 6- 60m
3 6+ 60m
4 5 40m

A direct line up the wall. One of the must climb routes while you are up here.

Climb towards the detached flake (Prekestolen) then up the straight LF dihedral & into the halvmåne hand crack. The crux pitch is a layback finger crack with some amazing exposure.

FA: Hank Levine & Dag Kolsrud, 1979

1 5 50m
2 6+ 50m
3 7 40m
4 6- 30m
5 7- 50m

Begins up left of the twin cracks. Harder climbing trends right & into the obvious halvmånen diedret. Shared final 2 pitches with Svart Hav. The final pitch is one of the best finger cracks here.

FA: Dag Kolsrud & Are Mellem, 1982

1 5+ R 40m
2 6+ R 40m
3 6- 45m
4 6+ 45m
5 6- 40m
6 7- 50m

Bolder than the surrounding routes. Shared final 2 pitches with Gemini.

FA: Sjur Nesheim & Bent Svinnung, 1981

1 5 40m
2 6 30m
3 6 40m
4 6 40m
5 6 30m
6 6 40m

A classic direct, sustained & heavy (read: sandbagged) line roughly following the marked dihedral & crack systems on the right edge of the halvmånen formation. A bold finish.

FA: Sjur Nesheim & Kjell Skog, 1982

A final pitch variation finish to Flygende Hollender. Described in the guidebook as `mini-Thanatos´

FA: Anders Lundhal & Eva Selin, 1982

Another variation finish to Flygende Hollender via 2 pitches of chimneys.

FA: Eirik Massih & Sofia Sandgren, 2003

Yet another variation to the finish of Flygende Hollender. The 1st pitch takes the dihedral right of the chimney system up to the belay above the Thanatos pitch. Pitch 2 trends left from the belay, tackling the double diherdals then heads out the right hand side of the roofs above.

FA: Eirik Massih & Håvard Nesheim, 2003

1 5 45m
2 6- 50m
3 6 30m
4 7+ 45m
5 4 50m

The king line on the main wall. Up high is the splitter of all splitters, a 40m overhanging hand crack. One of Northern Norway´s best pitches.

Triples/quadruples in some cams from 0.75-2" are nice for this pitch. The grades are very Baugen.

Some image here:

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FA: Hans Christian Doseth, Svein Smelvær, Ragnhild Amundsen & Håvard Nesheim, 1980

1 6- 50m
2 5+ 40m
3 6+ 60m
4 7+ 45m
5 4 50m

Variation start to Thanatos via the first 3 pitches of Krumtappen or Ballongsnoppen.

FA: Mårten Blixt & Bjørn Krane, 2001

Steep with quality up top. The original start is often skipped for the first pitches of Ballongsnoppen. Some images

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FA: Hans Doseth & Per Markestad, 1981

FA: Mårten Blixt & Øystein Andresen, 2002

1 6- 50m
2 5 50m
3 6 30m
4 7- 30m
5 5+ 30m

Aim for the left leaning dihedral (3rd pitch).

FA: Hans Christian Doseth & Ragnhild Amundsen, 1981

1 6- 50m
2 5 50m
3 6+ 45m
4 6 50m
5 5+ 20m

Start at the offset crack. You´re roughly aiming for the wavy dihedral (P3).

FA: Arild Meyer & Magnar Osnes, 1985

1 4 50m
2 6+ 30m
3 6 40m
4 6 40m
5 6+ 30m
6 4 40m

Start between the fins & aim for the triangle roof. 3rd pitch is a 40m splitter hand crack. One of the best pitches here.

FA: Dag Kolsrud & Hank Levine, 1979

1 5 60m
2 6 50m
3 6 50m
4 6 60m
5 6 20m
6 4 40m

Starts 50m right of Silhuetten.

FA: Erik Massih, Mårten Blixt & et al, 2000

FA: Børge Østigård & Øyvind Spjelkavik, 1981

FA: Dag Kolsrud & Hank Levine, 1979

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