Routes in Oceania

The access corner with chipped holds, bolts and chains.

Bring gloves...

Up the rungs which are 3m left of the battered tree leaning against cliff at top of access one. Quite steep and slippery when wet. Lead to DBB.

No existing route description. Location unknown.

No existing route description. Location unknown.

20m Right (at R end of cliff) are two lines.

Overhanging corner-crack capped by 2m off-width. From top of off-width face climb to top.

Summary: Poor protection, average rock quality.

Location: Murwillumbah, Nobbys creek road, Second nob. Ask owners permission.

Route: Start to the right of the vertical section. Whack a sling around a protusion roughly 12m up (the crux). continue to first ledge. Then to the next ledge. Finish up to the old gnarly gum tree. Walk down the nob ( cant rap). 60m rope needed.

The leaning, low-angle pillar, and wide shaft behind. The delicate crux is on the slabby pillar (no pro), so don't fall off!

Climb Nicabate on RBs and SLCDs to the curly tree. Stretch out R to clip RB on face. Traverse 4 m directly R under the bolt (kneebars!) until you reach the holds that are good enough to pull the lip on. Pull the lip, then up the gully past the broken stump. Traverse R onto Trireme’s exposed arete and climb this (runout) to tree belay. Lots of long quickdraws prevent rope drag. The seconder must carry prussiks!

Extend the belay down to th lip the RB r S e lower ledge. Climb L. C in the horizontal roof, and then go fo it. Out L, cranking through the lip. Climb corner above (two RB’s).

Starts at corner/weakness 4m R of VF. Up, then mantle awkward sloper ledge, moving up through the overhanging block system (mind the tongue orchid). Finish up the crack just to the left of the obvious corner topping out to the L of the dead tree. The top half is reputed to be very good.

Not good fun. Start at roof-capped gully. Climb up gully to roof and jam out L side (ouch!) onto face, up and R of bush to RB, then up R to crack to top.

Start from the belay tree on PTP ledge, which is 4m R of the start of G. Move 1m to the L and up through the obvious chimney

Only fun if you enjoy cranking off tiny holds. Rap to big tree on ledge and pre clip first RB! From tree (and not using it!) up with extremely thin, long moves past RB, some gear to second RB. Climb straight up R side of second RB, gear to top.

Avoids the hard start. Starts 2m right of SC. Rap to big tree on ledge and pre clip first RB. Up to RB, climb up and L (some gear) to RB on SC. Finish as for SC.

Belay off your abseil line. Start 2m R of pillar on L side of ledge. Mantle small ledge and place gear in horizontal crack on L. Proceed up the slight-rightwards shallow crack (small cams) to the next horizontal break and awesome pockets. Finish up the twin cracks to ledge, and top.

Belay off your abseil line. Starts 3m L of corner at right end of ledge, below big orange hand-hold. Start up wall to good ledge (medium SLCD). Straight up (small SLCD) and then towards horizontal break (medium SLCD). Veer L to layback crack and then up to L side of tree. Up ramp to top.

The route starts just L of the second RB on the fixed rope traverse. Crank up into cave. Lean out and clip RB on lip. Monkey up into easy ground. Run up corner past tree and get situated under roof, clipping RB on bulge. A gut-busting boulder problem into the corner (#2 SLCD) and up carefully to tree belay.

A thrilling lip-traverse variant on Elysium. Climb Elysium until your hands are on the ledge; level with the huge roof. Clip the RB, then power directly out the lip via what for most will be a huge dyno to a jug, then mantle out the prow. Finish easily as per the original.

This is a nice variant start to Send In The Clowns. Start as for the original in the niche but don’t go up the main crackline. Instead, climb out L onto the arête, climbing this to the rooflet, and then up the juggy orange face as per the original, or finish up Big Top for the best exposure!

Stickclip high RB and power up overhung bowl. Up arête past second RB to ledge. Finish up No Idea's DF on the arête. See topo 5.

Stickclip first RB, then climb up R of it (hard) to ledge. Black slab (two RB’s) to ledge, then up corner on gear (sling for chockstone). A #5 SLCD would help for the top section.

Start at the double RB station atop Sweet Slam (short rap in). Traverse L off the ledge under the roof, and follow the obvious half-height break all the way along the cliff to finish up Big Top. Has its moments, and could be a real challenge for those who are very short.

3m R at the short overhung wall. Hueco to break. Clip RB, then crimp up to pocket and ledge (place #1.5 SLCD in pocket after latching the ledge). Mantle, then easy corner on gear. You’re not doing it properly if you use the blocky footholds on the L down low.

5m R at the orange, blocky corner. Heinous hand/fist crack start (tape!) to beneath roof. Swing L through roof step L and climb the arête past a RB to a runout finish (don’t fall!).

Unfortunately, start as for TGDRA. Once above roof, continue directly up corner. Phil’s finest route-naming effort!

On the L of the seaward side of the boulder and a couple of metres L of Twin Paranoia. About 2 bolts required up the short scooped face and overhanging blunt arête.

About 7m R of Double Exposure. Up pitted arête (2 bolts needed) to below 2m roof. A variety of options now exist. Step easily R to escape up slabby wall (easy) or step L beneath roof and attempt finger crack through roof (stoopidly hard).

face climbing on small holds to tree belay minimal protection with rp's

Climb face into crack place lots of pro up crack to good holds short run out to tree belay

at limestone and not bolted

This route is located on a small outcrop, on the main walking track to the summit. Top-rope only from one of the trees.

Start to the right of Sesame Wheat

Location & height of this climb is unknown at this time.

ALL ROUTES LISTED L TO R.