Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Via ferrata | |||||
10 | ★★ Access Rungs
Up the rungs which are 3m left of the battered tree leaning against cliff at top of access one. Quite steep and slippery when wet. Lead to DBB. Set: Paul Rogers, 2012 | 20m | The Chasm | ||
Unknown | |||||
8 | Static Slab (At Nobbys Creek)
Summary: Poor protection, average rock quality. Location: Murwillumbah, Nobbys creek road, Second nob. Ask owners permission. Route: Start to the right of the vertical section. Whack a sling around a protusion roughly 12m up (the crux). continue to first ledge. Then to the next ledge. Finish up to the old gnarly gum tree. Walk down the nob ( cant rap). 60m rope needed. FA: Combes Brothers, 2003 | 54m | Tweed Valley | ||
16 | You Tarzan
The leaning, low-angle pillar, and wide shaft behind. The delicate crux is on the slabby pillar (no pro), so don't fall off! FA: Lee Cujes & Craig Phillips, 2002 | 15m | Burleigh Heads National Park | ||
22 | ★★ Filthy Habit
Climb Nicabate on RBs and SLCDs to the curly tree. Stretch out R to clip RB on face. Traverse 4 m directly R under the bolt (kneebars!) until you reach the holds that are good enough to pull the lip on. Pull the lip, then up the gully past the broken stump. Traverse R onto Trireme’s exposed arete and climb this (runout) to tree belay. Lots of long quickdraws prevent rope drag. The seconder must carry prussiks! FA: Lee Cujes & Erik Smits, 2004 | 35m | Redcliffs | ||
25 | ★ Trident
Extend the belay down to th lip the RB r S e lower ledge. Climb L. C in the horizontal roof, and then go fo it. Out L, cranking through the lip. Climb corner above (two RB’s). FA: Lee Skidmore, 2003 | 25m | Redcliffs | ||
17 | ★ Genesis
Starts at corner/weakness 4m R of VF. Up, then mantle awkward sloper ledge, moving up through the overhanging block system (mind the tongue orchid). Finish up the crack just to the left of the obvious corner topping out to the L of the dead tree. The top half is reputed to be very good. FA: Brian Moes & Phil Box, 2001 | 26m | Redcliffs | ||
18 | Little Chicken
Not good fun. Start at roof-capped gully. Climb up gully to roof and jam out L side (ouch!) onto face, up and R of bush to RB, then up R to crack to top. FA: James Pfrunder & Cameron Fairbairn., 2003 | 15m | Redcliffs | ||
15 | Ouch
Start from the belay tree on PTP ledge, which is 4m R of the start of G. Move 1m to the L and up through the obvious chimney FA: Phil Box & Grant Edser, 2000 | 20m | Redcliffs | ||
24 | Stricken Chicken
Only fun if you enjoy cranking off tiny holds. Rap to big tree on ledge and pre clip first RB! From tree (and not using it!) up with extremely thin, long moves past RB, some gear to second RB. Climb straight up R side of second RB, gear to top. FA: Cameron Fairbairn & James Pfrunder, 2003 | 15m | Redcliffs | ||
21 | ★ Variant Chicken
Avoids the hard start. Starts 2m right of SC. Rap to big tree on ledge and pre clip first RB. Up to RB, climb up and L (some gear) to RB on SC. Finish as for SC. FA: Cameron Fairbairn & James Pfrunder, 2003 | 15m | Redcliffs | ||
15 | ★ Hedonistic Succubus
Belay off your abseil line. Start 2m R of pillar on L side of ledge. Mantle small ledge and place gear in horizontal crack on L. Proceed up the slight-rightwards shallow crack (small cams) to the next horizontal break and awesome pockets. Finish up the twin cracks to ledge, and top. FA: Rob Knight & Phil Box, 2003 | 14m | Redcliffs | ||
16 | Nihilism
Belay off your abseil line. Starts 3m L of corner at right end of ledge, below big orange hand-hold. Start up wall to good ledge (medium SLCD). Straight up (small SLCD) and then towards horizontal break (medium SLCD). Veer L to layback crack and then up to L side of tree. Up ramp to top. FA: Rob Knight & Phil Box, 2003 | 14m | Redcliffs | ||
22 | ★ Suspended In Disbelief
The route starts just L of the second RB on the fixed rope traverse. Crank up into cave. Lean out and clip RB on lip. Monkey up into easy ground. Run up corner past tree and get situated under roof, clipping RB on bulge. A gut-busting boulder problem into the corner (#2 SLCD) and up carefully to tree belay. FA: Phil Box & Lee Cujes, 2001 | 25m | Redcliffs | ||
24 | ★★ The Flashing Spade
A thrilling lip-traverse variant on Elysium. Climb Elysium until your hands are on the ledge; level with the huge roof. Clip the RB, then power directly out the lip via what for most will be a huge dyno to a jug, then mantle out the prow. Finish easily as per the original. FA: Lee Skidmore & Adam Power, 2005 | 20m | Redcliffs | ||
16 | ★★ Trapezius
This is a nice variant start to Send In The Clowns. Start as for the original in the niche but don’t go up the main crackline. Instead, climb out L onto the arête, climbing this to the rooflet, and then up the juggy orange face as per the original, or finish up Big Top for the best exposure! FA: Dave Barre & JJ O'Brien, 2005 | 20m | Redcliffs | ||
23 | Forrest Grunt
Stickclip high RB and power up overhung bowl. Up arête past second RB to ledge. Finish up No Idea's DF on the arête. See topo 5. FA: Lee Skidmore, 2003 | 20m | Redcliffs | ||
17 | No Idea
Stickclip first RB, then climb up R of it (hard) to ledge. Black slab (two RB’s) to ledge, then up corner on gear (sling for chockstone). A #5 SLCD would help for the top section. FA: Stephen Parker & Geoff Parker, 2001 | 20m | Redcliffs | ||
16 | ★ Traverse Of The Clowns
Start at the double RB station atop Sweet Slam (short rap in). Traverse L off the ledge under the roof, and follow the obvious half-height break all the way along the cliff to finish up Big Top. Has its moments, and could be a real challenge for those who are very short. FA: Lee Skidmore, Erik Smits & Phil Box, 2004 | 35m | Redcliffs | ||
21 | ★ Cheese In My Chalk Bag
3m R at the short overhung wall. Hueco to break. Clip RB, then crimp up to pocket and ledge (place #1.5 SLCD in pocket after latching the ledge). Mantle, then easy corner on gear. You’re not doing it properly if you use the blocky footholds on the L down low. FA: Geoff Parker & Stephen Parker, 2001 | 10m | Redcliffs | ||
21 | Tape Gloves De Rigueur Arête
5m R at the orange, blocky corner. Heinous hand/fist crack start (tape!) to beneath roof. Swing L through roof step L and climb the arête past a RB to a runout finish (don’t fall!). FA: Phil Box & Lee Cujes, 2001 | 12m | Redcliffs | ||
21 | White Sands Beach Corner
Unfortunately, start as for TGDRA. Once above roof, continue directly up corner. Phil’s finest route-naming effort! FA: Phil Box & Lee Cujes, 2001 | 12m | Redcliffs | ||
12 | Hairy Armpits
FA: kenny b & kenny b, 2003 | 16m | Indian Head | ||
14 | Rubbing The Elf
face climbing on small holds to tree belay minimal protection with rp's FA: Kenny B, 2002 | 10m | Coral Beach | ||
18 | Listerine Pew
Climb face into crack place lots of pro up crack to good holds short run out to tree belay FA: Kenny B & Timmy, 2002 | 10m | Coral Beach | ||
16 | ★★ Glen Eden
FA: Mark Gamble & Geoff Lawrie, 2006 | 45m | Moomank Buttress (private land) | ||
13 | ★ The Other Root
FA: Mark Gamble & Geoff Lawrie, 2007 | 38m | Moomank Buttress (private land) | ||
10 | Wato
at limestone and not bolted FA: Fisch & Wato, 2007 | 30m | Springsure | ||
18 | ★ Jim Jam
This route is located on a small outcrop, on the main walking track to the summit. Top-rope only from one of the trees. FA: Jacob Carvell & Aaron Wilhelmsen, 2009 | 8m | Rockhampton | ||
10 | Red Skin
FA: J Bood, M Schimke & O Rickford, 2008 | 6m | Emu Mountain | ||
11 | Beware
FA: M Schimke, J Bood & O Rickford, 2008 | 12m | Emu Mountain | ||
15 | ★ Rambler Direct (a.k.a Bush Boots Anxiety)
Nice direct finish to rambler. Up the initial unprotected overhang and straight up through the top overhang. Done in Hiking boots originally. FA: Kevin Petley & Jenni Purdie, 1998 | 25m | Hayes Creek | ||
12 | ★★ Gone with the Wind Direct Finish
FA: Tim Bond & Dan Fletcher, 2008 | 21m | Hayes Creek | ||
18 | ★★ Supply Line
Up to and into very obvious and memorable crackline through beautiful blank headwall to finish FA: Colin Reece, Stuart Anderson & Paula Medway, 2007 | 28m | Depot Creek | ||
12 | ★★ Zeigfried Line
Obvious easy line of weakness left of Rations FA: Paula Medway, Stuart Anderson & Colin Reece, 2007 | 15m | Depot Creek | ||
15 | ★ The Berrimah Line
First pitch about grade 11, up to nice clean corner at 15. Obvious easy line left of Supply line to ledge. Second pitch is obvious orange corner. FA: Paila Medway & Colin Reece, 2007 | 28m | Depot Creek | ||
18 | ★★ Linea Nigra
Very cool, 2 cruxes and lots of good climbing in between. Great pro. Around the corner right of Supply line. Take thin crack in rooflet then up wall to ledge. Overhanging finish. FA: Stuart Anderson & Arullan Naidoo, 2007 | 28m | Depot Creek | ||
13 | Finger Puppets
On face standing on Camp Rock the obvious crack line, intimidating step across from the camp rock onto face, low protection required to stop falling into the gap. Small wires and cams to top, unprotected top to carrot bolts or walk off back. FA: Jessica Cormick, 2021 FFA: Tom Etheridge, 28 May 2023 | 6m | The Apostles | ||
13 | Finger Puppets
On face standing on Camp Rock the obvious crack line, intimidating step across from the camp rock onto face, low protection required to stop falling into the gap. Small wires and cams to top, unprotected top to carrot bolts or walk off back. FA: Jessica Cormick, 2021 FFA: Tom Etheridge, 28 May 2023 | 6m | The Apostles | ||
16 | Packing It
Run out finish. FA: Colin Reece & Stuart Anderson, 2007 | 9m | The Apostles | ||
19 | ★★ No News
Stick clip high bolt, Short and sharp. FA: Colin Reece & Stuart Anderson, 2007 | 9m | The Apostles | ||
14 | Walking with Spirits
FA: Colin Reece & Stuart Anderson, 2006 | 15m | Cascade Falls (Unknown Gorge) | ||
16 | Jolly Green Giant
FA: Stuart Anderson & Colin Reece, 2006 | 20m | Cascade Falls (Unknown Gorge) | ||
12 | ★ Brush Runner
FA: Stuart Anderson & Katrina Anderson, 2007 | 18m | Cascade Falls (Unknown Gorge) | ||
16 | ★★ Arc De Triumph
An outstanding and very engaging climb on the back side of the pillar. Climb the right side to until you can tenuously bridge the gap between. Follow the steep crack up to the roof, then traverse right under the roof to ledge. Finish easily up from here. Watch rope drag FA: Colin Reece 2, Geoff McQueen & Colin Reece, 2004 | 15m | The Apostles | ||
17 | ★★ Short Film Festival
Directly on the other side of the pinnacle from Harvey Crumpet is a fine line that takes a shallow right facing seam. This climb is easily identified by wildly undercut area just to the right. Follow the seam up onto the slabby wall then delicately up FA: Chris Hart, Kelly Hansen 2004 & Kelly Hansen, 2004 | 12m | The Apostles | ||
15 | ★ Getaway
FA: Cameron McKenzie & Anita Gowers, 2006 | 10m | Mount Buffalo | ||
23 | Cowboy Logic
Start up Maharajah LHV start, reach left as for Ravi Variant. L past BR to the arete, then up the right side of the flake. Slab past 2BRs to the belay on Maharajah. Finish as for Castles in the Sand to summit chains. Abseil 25moff the back. FA: Tim Day & Wade Stevens, 1999 | 30m, 3 | Mount Buffalo | ||
18 | ★★ Burkey's Birthday Bash Corner
The curving corner crack on the right of the little crag (known locally as Bum Rock) on the western slopes of Mt Jack northeast of Myrtleford. FA: Paul Badenoch & Chris Oerman, 2008 | 25m | Beechworth Area | ||
19 | Rump Steak
FA: Luke Visser & Derek Visser, 2007 | 8m | Felltimber Creek Crag | ||
14 | Serrata
FA: Mike Patterson & Hayden Brotchie, 2005 | 250m | Blue Mountains | ||
17 | Shedding skin
FA: Chris Fox, 2006 | 20m | Popran | ||
19 | ★ The Life of Bwian
FA: Jason Piper, 2006 | 20m | Popran | ||
21 | Purty Lips LHV
As for PL to first big scoop on left wall. Hop in, dyno/reach break, monkey horizontally left and finish up crack in arete. Not yet equipped. FA: FTRA Lee Cujes, 2000 | 15m | Deliverance | ||
19 | ★★ The Unforgettable Wire
Stay low when traversing onto the line of bolts. Quiet hard if you climb up into the hucos and traverse across. 2BB on ledge as you top out hard to find FA: Wade Stevens & Nina Cullen, 2000 | 22m | Wolgan Valley | ||
18 | ★★ The Best Forgotten Art (pitch 1)
Take a full rack, brackets and a #1.5 Fr for above 3rd bolt. Rap 35m off DRB. FA: Will Monks & Damien Haines, 2000 | 37m | Wolgan Valley | ||
18 | Andrew's Project pitch 1 (Keep off pitch 2!)
The arete 8m R of TBFA. Good climbing, almost worth a star. Rap 45m off DRB. We did pitch 2 but not clean yet, please keep off. FA: Andrew Duckworth, 2000 FA: Andrew Duckworth & Will Monks, 2001 | 45m, 2 | Wolgan Valley | ||
18 | Andrew's Project pitch 1 (Keep off pitch 2!)
The arete 8m R of TBFA. Good climbing, almost worth a star. Rap 45m off DRB. We did pitch 2 but not clean yet, please keep off. FA: Andrew Duckworth, 2000 FA: Andrew Duckworth & Will Monks, 2001 | 45m, 2 | Wolgan Valley | ||
21 | ★ Admit One
Around the corner, the far left line FA: Gavin Oliver & Corey Sawyer, 2001 | 15m | Nerriga | ||
20 | ★ Pleasantly Warm
just right of AO FA: Corey Sawyer & Gavin Oliver, 2001 | 15m | Nerriga | ||
22 | Oh Baby
Just left of the arete between Admit One and Pleasently Warm FA: Corey Sawyer & Gavin Oliver, 2001 | 15m | Nerriga | ||
22 | ★ Show Us Your Plumage
Start as for Oh Baby, after the second traverse right and then head up FA: Gavin Oliver & Corey Sawyer, 2001 | 15m | Nerriga | ||
25 | Pebble Dependant
Up the corner and step right onto the ledge. Finishes up the arete FA: Corey Sawyer, 2001 | 15m | Nerriga | ||
7 | Date Ace
Route description to be confirmed. . . . . FA: G. Evans/S. Flanagan, 2004 | 8m | Badgerys Lookout | ||
★★ Project (Steve H?)
Closely spaced rusty FHs on left edge of the right cave up a little protruding feature. Climb The Bulge to access the start. Set: 2007 | 10m | Royal National Park | |||
20 | ★ High Definition Digital
Follow track to Turtle rock, as you walk past first face you come to notice large obvious crack, unbolted, first accents? could use trad or set up toprope. Difficult finger crack start that gets easier as you go up before easy top out. FA: Dan Bruzsa, 2006 | 15m | Girraween | ||
15 | ★ Electrolyte
Scramble 6m up to large ledge. 1st FH below large hole (wasps removed). Continue through bulge passing 3 more FHs to chain belay shared with NASATV. Be warned of ants at 2/3 height. FA: Bernard Walsh & Colin Carstens, 2005 | 22m, 4 | Urbenville | ||
14 | Long Black
FA: Mark Gamble & Dave Duffy, 2006 | 40m | Mt Maroon | ||
20 | ★ Buy-Back Scheme
Starts 6m L of OOA. Up through small roof and up superb stone on the headwall passing a fixed thread to lower off. FA: Darrin Carter, 1998 | 13m | Serpent | ||
22 | ★ Goodbye Cruel World
A voyage up (most) of the steep S face passing two bolts (not placed by me!) FA: Paul Badenoch, 2002 | 28m | Gibraltar Rock | ||
11 | Boyled over
FA: David Gray & Sarah Boyle, 2007 | 80m | Tullah | ||
21 | ★★ Rivalry
FA: 2004 | 10m | Loddon River Falls | ||
25 | Pathway to Mass Consumption
FA: 2005 | 15m | Mount Buffalo | ||
24 | ★★ Gaia
Access via a 75-80m abseil from chains. This rap station is located beside a huge gum tree that leans out precariously (and no doubt is destined to fall into the depths of the gorge under its own weight), on the rim of the gorge around about 50m (?) around northward and down a little from the north edge of the top of the Queen Victoria buttress. This rap station can be used to access Wall to Wall, Send out for More Pizza, Gaia, White Knuckle Days and Statute of Limitations. The abseil can be broken into two, utilising the double bolt belay at the top of the first pitch of Gaia and WKD. There is now a bolted, independent, direct start to the original version of Gaia, as well as an extra bolt in the top of the first pitch, and two bolts in the top pitch. This new reincarnation provides a more even, sustained, but less death-defying route than the original. The first pitch, in particular, is one to savour. Start at the double hangers, mid-way between the original start of Gaia (in the corner) and White Knuckle Days.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1989 FA: Kevin Lindorff, Malcolm Matheson & Andy Schmutter, Feb 2018 | 75m, 2, 10 | Mount Buffalo | ||
17 | ★ The Sirrocco
Possibly follows the carrot and FH around the R side of the block? Looks decent enough. FA: Darryl McConnell, 2001 | 18m | Teneriffe | ||
15 | afternoon tea
FA: 2005 | 12m | Teneriffe | ||
25 | ★★ magic
FA: Aaron Wilson & steven wilson, 1998 | 28m | Teneriffe | ||
20 | Rubiks Cube
overhanging finger crack & crumling blocks , finish left of capstone FA: Robin Holmes & Steven Wilson, 2001 | 10m | Teneriffe | ||
22 | ★ Rubicks Tangent
start as for rubiks cube , head diagonally right along flake to break then straight up seam past a BR to finish right of capstone FA: Steven Wilson & Robin Holmes, 2001 | 10m | Teneriffe | ||
18 | Chunky Puzzle
start 2m left of rubiks cube , hard start leads up corner crack . traverse left under capping stone then up crack FA: Robin Holmes & Steven Wilson, 2001 | 14m | Teneriffe | ||
20 | Thick As Thieves
starts next level down from rubiks cube start at small cave at left end of cliff up right of two cracks . step right at 3m then follow line to top FA: Steven Wilson & Robin Holmes, 2001 | 12m | Teneriffe | ||
15 | ★ Robin's New 15
FA: Robin Holmes, Will Monks & Steve Wilson, 2004 | 10m | Teneriffe | ||
21 | ★ Helping Hand
FA: Steve Wilson, Will Monks & Robin Holmes, 2004 | 20m | Teneriffe | ||
25 | ★★ Inside Out
2m left of outside line, 3BRs FA: Steven Wilson, 2001 | 8m | Teneriffe | ||
16 | Lambs Fry
start on uphill side of lamb rock. step up on block to clip BR then step right on crappy rock to arete, up seam past two BR FA: Robin Holmes & Steven Wilson, 2001 | 10m | Teneriffe | ||
23 | Lamb Roast
start 5m left of lambs fry, climb past br then along left leading crack for 2m. step acoss to right leading flake and clip BR. foot traverse right to arete then up FA: Steven Wilson & Robin Holmes, 2001 | 15m | Teneriffe | ||
19 | ★★★ Crucifixion
FA: Neil Monteith Jono Schimdt, 2005 | 65m | Alpine National Park (Southern) | ||
23 | ★★ Resurrection
FA: Neil Monteith Jono Schimdt, 2005 | 65m | Alpine National Park (Southern) | ||
18 | Deflated Dreams
FA: Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie, 2006 | 25m | Alpine National Park (Southern) | ||
17 | Curse Of The Flat Battery
FA: Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie, 2006 | 25m | Alpine National Park (Southern) | ||
25 | ★★ I'll Stick Around
I’ll Stick Around 12m 24 Superb thin face, with a delicate crux. 3FHs (1st and 3rd require small ‘biners) FA: Kent Paterson; kp, 2000 | 12m, 3 | Mt Alexander | ||
22 | ★ Kula Shaker
A good introduction to the thin pocketed face climbing featured on this wall. Start as Territorial Pissings (1 FH requires small 'biner) trending right past 2 FHs. FA: KP & Al Rob, 2004 | 10m, 2 | Mt Alexander | ||
25 | ★★★ Parklife
FA: Kent Paterson; kp, 2005 | 10m | Mt Alexander | ||
16 | ★ The Graduate
FA: Gavin Portier / Barry Jones, 2009 | 15m | Planet Clare | ||
15 | ★ Buzz Lightyear
FA: Gavin Portier - Barry Jones, 2009 | 10m | Planet Clare | ||
20 | ★★ Buzz Aldrin
FA: Gavin Portier - Barry Jones, 2009 | 10m | Planet Clare | ||
16 | ★★ Yuri Garagin
FA: Barry Jones / Gavin Portier, 2009 | 10m | Planet Clare | ||
16 | Angel 125
Up the crack then out steep section (2 FHs) to double BB. Start: 6m right of B, below vague crack. FA: David Barnes, 2000 | 10m | Illawong | ||
21 | ★★ The Tardis
Formerly the aid route Rassilon. Starts at Tardis paint.4 RBs straight up to lower offs. Sharp rock through crux with technical moves. FA: Tony Williams, 2005 | 13m | Blue Mountains | ||
20 | ★ Quantum Leap Direct
Makes Quantum Leap original obsolete. Tree is gone so a direct start is now possible. Hard overhung start to flakey rock. 4 RBs to lower offs rebolted 6/5/05. FA: Tony Williams, 2005 | 15m | Blue Mountains | ||
18 | ★ Fully Sick Mate
Bouldery climbing, lovin the power of the undercling. Start: 3 mtrs left of CC FA: Ricky "The Mayor" Phillips, 2009 FA: Rick Phillips, 2009 | 8m | New Nowra - Braidwood Road |