Routes as trad in Oceania

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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall
3 Bullet Buttress

A pleasant, low-angled buttress.

Start: Start 20m L of Melville's Cave.

FA: Keith & Maurice Leslie, 1967

Trad 20m
9 Holdup Line

Very nice.

Start: Immediately right of 'Bullet Buttress'. A steep wall leads to a baby chimney, then up easily and step left into BB.

FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967

Trad 20m
14 Holdup Line Direct Finish
Trad 20m
11 Stage Coach

Up via the offwidth slot then finish as for 'Long Bow'.

Start: Start just R of 'Holdup Line'.

FA: Ceri Law & Geraldine Thompson, 1981

Trad 20m
11 Working Class Hero

Short chimney then finish as for 'Stage Coach'.

Start: Just right of SC.

FA: Bill Andrews, Ceri Law & Ian Wilson, 1980

Trad 20m
10 Long Bow

The groove with snap-o-licious flakes and a tricky finish.

Start: 1m R of 'Working Class Hero'.

FA: Ed Briner & Norm Osborne, 1970

Trad 20m
11 Ckup

Line immediately right of Long Bow.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 1994

Trad 20m
17 Kerfuffle

Start at crack two metres left of Ckinell but climb up grey slab on left to an easy stance directly below large thread. Straight up to middle of the two steep roofs. There's an undercling with a rattling tooth like block that is not going anywhere. Tricky gear and pumpy to place but regular gear can be found. Once over the roof follow the same line as Fracas to the top or head right to rap anchors.

FA: Freya Hik & Hywel Rowlands, Dec 2017

Trad 28m
16 Fracas

Start at crack line two metres left of Ckinell, up crack, gradually veering left into second crack, then through large guano filled pocket and jug hall through the easier section of roof above pocket. Easy climbing to top or head right to rap anchors.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Freya Hik, Dec 2017

Trad 28m
18 Lost Gold

The overhung arete 1.5m left of Ckinell. Limited gear at roof and pumpy to place.

Trad 28m
14 Ckinell

The slightly overhung corner. Beware snapping holds especially on the poorly protected start.

Start: Just L of Melville's Cave.

FA: Paul Gillis & Norm Osborne, 1970

Trad 28m
12 Ckinothe

Long traverse.

Start: As for 'Ckinell' to gain Melville's Cave. Step right and traverse under the overhangs all the way to 'The Ghost Of Melville'. Meander right just above second cave, then up.

FA: Paul Gillis & Norm Osborne, 1970

Trad 52m
24 Repo Man

Out through big roof in the main cave. Downgraded to 24 in recent guide.

Start: Beneath L side of Melville's Cave. Then the thin wall above.

FA: Geoff Little, Maureen Gallagher & Jon Muir, 1988

Trad 25m
26 Climber-Model Denialists

Mosey up to the cave via the L crack, launch out onto the lip jugs of 'Repo Man', then veer R and up on good but spaced holds past two FH's into the finish of 'Cricket Bats In A Box'.

FA: Douglas Hockly, 2017

Mixed trad 20m, 2
22 Cricket Bats in a Box

Poor pro. The right side of the cave to a sickle flake, then left.

Start: Below the R side of Melville's Cave.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988

Trad 25m
9 Cave Climb

Step R from cave to ledge. Then up corner or nose, both with poor pro.

Start: Start as for 'Cricket Bats in a Box'.

FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967

Trad 30m
12 Horse Drawn

Start 5m right of Melville's Cave. Up wall and through cruxy overhang.

FA: Peter Martin & Ian Howe, 1980

Trad 20m
13 Sexless Sue

Start 10m right of Melville's Cave. Climb the rotten crack and go through the overhang at the top.

FA: Norm Osborne & Ed Briner, 1970

Trad 20m
13 Sue's Crutchless Knickers

Cracks, then finish up gully or up crack to the left.

Start: 8m right of 'Sexless Sue'.

FA: Andrew Corlass, James Falla, Teddy Bear Thompson & Sue Magoo, 1983

Trad 20m
7 Little Revolver Crack

Discontinuous cracks.

Start: Start just L of 'Revolver Crack'.

Trad 20m
6 Revolver Crack

The deep crack.

Start 20m right of Melville's Cave.

FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967

Trad 20m
14 Hangman

Lovely rock to start, and a dramatic exit to finish.

Start: As for 'Revolver Crack' then head R up thin crack.

FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975

Trad 25m
15 The Ghost of Melville

ATTENTION: There can be a Bee Hive on this route, take care.

The major corner, facing the second cave.

Start: 3m R of 'Revolver Crack' up major corner facing second cave. Step left to finish.

FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975

Trad 25m
12 Big Dog's Cock

Presumably this climbs just R of the corner taken by 'The Ghost Of Melville'... but the write-up doesn't say.

Start: R of 'Hangman'. Up slab, keeping right of corner to big pockets, over tricky bulge then directly up and through roof to top.

FA: Mark Witham, Steve Reynolds, Merilyn Reynolds, Michael Hartman, Rhonda & Emil, 1996

Trad 28m
22 Red Right Hand

Bring some painkillers.

Starts in the second cave (Nick Cave) through the obvious weakness in the roof with one bolt.

Mixed trad 10m, 1
10 Six Wet Troopers

The least mossy line.

Start: About 3m right of 'Big Dog's Cock'

FA: Michael Hartman, Mark Witham, Steve Reynolds, Rhonda & Emil, 1996

Trad 28m
10 Climb, sleep, repeat

The crack 6m right of 'The Ghost of Melville', through overhang and up gulch.

FA: Wendy Eden & Lassi, 1 Nov 2018

Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Back Wall
3 Trooper

FA: Peter Martin, 1981

Trad 10m
7 Trooper One

Crack to horizontal break, then go 2m right and up crack.

Start: 1m left of small cave on the grey wall just left of the descent gully.

FA: Peter Martin, 1981

Trad 10m
13 Trooper Two

Start just right of the cave, heading up until level with the top of it, then head diagonally up left until above the centre of the cave and continue straight up from there.

FA: Peter Martin, 1981

Trad 10m
6 Trooper Three

The crack with a hard start.

Start at the right side of the grey wall.

FA: Peter Martin, 1981

Trad 10m
2 Cartridge Arete

A pleasant jug-haul arete.

Start: The arete right of the walk-down gully.

Trad 10m
6 Cartridge Wall

The wall between 'Cartridge Arete' and 'Cartridge Chimney'.

Trad 10m
6 Cartridge Chimney

The chimney.

Start: Just R of 'Cartridge Arete'.

FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975

Trad 10m
7 Dead Ned

A nice little line. Start up the left edge of the orange wall, then step right and proceed up the weakness on good holds.

FA: Unknown, 2000

Trad 10m
14 Kelly Watch The Stars

The fun starting move up to the vertical finger slot directly up the wall between the grooves of Dead Ned and OC. Well protected.

Trad 10m
15 Orange Crush

The crack.

Start: 3.5m right of CC.

FA: Tod Truscott & Oscar Poll, 1990

Trad 10m
6 Cobb & Co.

The steep orange corner facing L.

Start 0.5m R of OC.

FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975

Trad 12m
10 Tullah's Pleased

Start 3m left of Tullah's Tease and up the bouldery start. Straight up through the middle of the orange face on ripper incut jugs. Stay in the middle of the face the whole way up. Protection is great all the way.

Trad 12m
7 Tullah's Tease

Layback for 5m then step right into crack.

Start: Start 5m right of 'Cobb & Co'.

FA: John Fisher, 1983

Trad 12m
16 Rubbery Under Arms

Up the pockets through the overhanging wall, about 4m right of 'Tullah's Tease', then continue easily up the line above.

FA: Michael Creek, 1986

Trad 12m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag
16 Pot Boiler

Start 8m left of 'The Ferrets Are Coming', below a rock step. R up vague ramp then up.

FA: Bruce Sutherland & Keith Lockwood, 1984

Trad 12m
17 Tonic

Start as for 'Pot Boiler' but continue up to the horizontal break at 8m, then head right and up.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Bruce Sutherland, 1984

Trad 12m
17 Pot Boiler Right Hand Variant

Incorrectly labelled as 'Tonic' when first put on The Crag. FA details on this alternate finish for 'Pot Boiler' are unknown.

Start as for 'Pot Boiler' but continue heading right then up gross looking crack.

Trad 12m
21 R The Ferrets Are Coming

Once graded 17! 21 for tall people and/or topropers. Fiddly to protect.

Start 7m left of 'Craddock Crack' and head up left leaning crack before moving back right.

FA: Peter Watson & Mike Law, 1976

Trad 12m
9 Craddock Crack

This baby offwidth was possibly first climbed by Bob Craddock.

The left-most deep crack on the roadside face.

Trad 13m
18 Raiders of the Lost Crack

Up 3m, left across 'Craddock Crack' to freaky block on arete, then up crack 3m left of arete. The RH Variant goes up the crack on the arete at grade 18.

Start: 1m right of 'CC'.

FA: Auston Rotheram & Tom Greenwood, 1984

Trad 15m
10 Kristies Finger

Think this is the front of the little buttress immediately right of 'Craddock Crack', starting as for 'Raiders of The Lost Crack'.

FA: Mark Thomas & Kristie O'Brien, 2005

Trad 12m
2 Sunny Gully

Hard start, then easy climbing to the ledge.

A direct finish continues up the crack above this ledge at about grade 18.

Trad 12m
8 Marshmallow Sea DS

The undercut direct start to 'Marshmallow Sea' is definitely a little harder than the original.

Trad 14m
7 Marshmallow Sea

Move left to the sparsely protected smooth wall facing the road.

Start: As for 'Deck Gully' but move left and up, finishing past the small overhang.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Ken Taylor, 1975

Trad 14m
2 Deck Gully

The rightmost deep gully facing the road.

Trad 12m
20 Brit Milah

High traverse that circumscribes the wall above 'Deck Games'. The original purpose of the 'mystery' bolt.

Start at the top of 'Deck Gully' at the obvious traverse line. There is gear that protects the step out to clip the bolt. Scamper along the traverse line clipping a bolt on Gordy's route till you get to the front of the block. up and belay.

FA: Mark Wood, Ben Storey & Steve Wilson, 2011

Mixed trad 12m, 2
27 All Decked Out

This is the 2 FHs up the nice little face trending L from 'Deck Games'.

Start: As for 'Deck Games'.

FA: Gordon Poultney, 2000

Mixed trad 12m, 2
25 Deck Games

Very appealing rock.

Start: Under the nice bulgy orange buttress closest to the road and start up the left leaning crack only to break right almost immediately.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Mixed trad 13m, 1
26 New Wave Winos

Start as for Saggitarian, head left under bulge and dyno up left through it past a carrot bolt hammered into a break like a piton. Yes, you read that correctly, and that's why I've attributed the route to Mike Law as surely noone else would have thought this was a great idea. I just TR'd it.

FA: Mike Law, 1983

Trad 15m
24 Scorpio

Left-hand finish to Sagittarian (Grade could be suspect ).

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 1998

23 Sagittarian

Steep crack 6m left of 'Sickle' to break, then move R and up past a bolt, onto easier ground.

FA: Peter Millington & Adrian Jones, 1969

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

Mixed trad 12m, 1
21 Sagittarian Variant Start

Start as for Slip Knot and head up left to the bolt on Sagittarian. Easier and better than the original.

FA: 1 Jan 2014

Mixed trad 15m, 1
22 New Wave Wanks

Start up 'Slip Knot', then left across 'Sagittarian' to the arete, and a hard move up R to jugs.

FA: Phil Bigg & Chris Shepherd, 1983

Trad 15m
19 R Slip Knot

Start 1m right of 'Sagittarian' and up poorly protected wall just right of the bolts.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Mike Law & Mike Stone, 1977

Trad 12m
7 Taya

Good beginner's lead.

Start just left of the plaque and right of the small overhang. Climb the wall between 'Hammer' and 'Slip Knot'.

FA: Taya Cross & Glenn Mostert, 1997

Trad 12m
4 Hammer

Great beginner's route.

Start as for 'Sickle' and go up this a little way then step left to short ramp then up shallow corner. Climbing it direct is around grade 8, but has no protection.

FA: Doug Hatt, 1964

Trad 12m
9 Sickle

Impossible to get lost on.

Starts above the plaque on the north-west side of the crag. It's the obvious wide chimney, that narrows to a crack near the top.

FA: Garry Kerkin & Co, 1965

Trad 13m
16 R Marmot's Mall

The nice face between 'Sickle' and 'Little Thor' gets classed as "serious" as it has seen plenty of groundfalls and a death. However, the pro is fine if you know how to put it in. Treat it as an exercise to see how much you can place.

Start 3m L of 'Little Thor', immediately right of 'Sickle'. The nice glassy face with small cracks for wires and hardest moves at top. Note the arete just to the R has been done at 18.

FA: Rowan Webb, Dave Parkhurst & Kevin Sheehy, 1966

Trad 12m
20 Little Thor

The lovely right-facing flake corner bordering the left side of the great blankish north-west wall. It's a pity that it gets heavily top-roped.

Climb the right-facing corner with hard moves past the little roof then keep cranking up slightly left to the top. Gear has a habit of unzipping on people; consider placing a directional at the start and being generous with the draws.

FA: Ian Guild & Peter Smith, 1965

FFA: Ian Lewis & Joe Friend, 1974

Trad 12m
23 Little Thor Direct Finish

After the crux on 'Little Thor', continue straight up instead of scuttling off left. Take a bolt bracket.

FA: Toshihiko Hijakata, 1988

Mixed trad 5m, 1
24 Look Sharp

Up weakness 8m right of 'Steps Ahead' to first bolt. Go slightly right to second bolt and hard moves lead to pin. Finish up right.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Tony Dignan, 1979

Mixed trad 15m, 2
22 A New Toy

Bouldery crux. Up crack 2m left of 'Problematic' to bulge and bolt. Onwards.

FA: Stuart Hickson & Allan Wilkie, 1982

Mixed trad 15m, 1
24 Remembrance Day

From the finish of 'Problematic', traverse L across the top of the wall under small roof-line with a piton, 2 BRs (take brackets), then over rooflet and left past a slung knob for pro.

Start: as for 'Problematic'.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1982

Mixed trad 20m, 2
22 Problematic

The short bulging crack on the right-hand side of the north-west-facing sheer orange wall.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Baxter, 1979

Trad 10m
17 Hog Jowls

Start left of 'The Pleb'. Up to ledge, traverse L to corner.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Phil Wilkins, 1996

Trad 20m
13 Sir George

Start left of 'The Pleb'. Nice crack to ledge then bulge.

FA: John Fisher, 1984

Trad 20m
5 The Pleb

The chimney on the south-west side of the outcrop.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966

Trad 27m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall
19 Sausage Of The Century

Bouldery start then move rightwards into the line.

Start at the vague line towards the L end of the wall.

FA: Jon Muir, Rod Young, Mike Law-Smith & Glenn Tempest, 1981

Trad 12m
21 Oogie Boogie

A pair of weaknesses lead to a bulge, which succumbs to a layback/mantle. Start just R of Sausage Of The Century.

FA: Mark Barnett & Rod Young, 1981

Trad 10m
22 Boogie Boogie

A miniscule direct middle to Oogie Boogie. Straight under the DRB anchor.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Wendy Eden, 2 Nov 2015

Trad 10m
18 Limp

In the same vein as Je Suis Un Legend, links all the easiest bits of the existing routes to create a conceptual megaclassic. Unfortunately the climbing is only one star.

Start up Oogie Boogie, go diagonally right to join the top of Asteroids and finish up it. Up the slab (a touch runout) and right up the corner to finish. Its possible to keep traversing from the final corner/groove to the chains of Hyperspace Bypass (below top of cliff).

FA: Douglas Hockly & Wendy Eden, 7 Oct 2015

Trad 20m
20 The Wizard of Id

Steep jugs, crack, face. Start R of OB, just L of overhangs, beneath small flake on bulge.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Barnett, 1981

Trad 10m
20 Popeye

Start in V corner, soon moving left until under large jammed blocks. Pull through the bulge, then up vertical seam, then step up and left. Soon after, traverse left to the ledge with rap station.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Barnett, 1981

Trad 20m
22 Asteroids

Starts at the same corner as for Popeye, then steps up and right to a higher V-corner. Pass the bulge using the big pockets, then higher to where the angle eases. From here you can either traverse far left (to 'The Wizard of Id' abseil station), or veer right up the dirty weakness (to 'Vogon Destructor Fleet' abseil station).

FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1981

Trad 20m
23 Vogon Destructor Fleet

Start right of Asteroids, head up to small V in overhang below bolts. Follow bolts through bulges, then 2 bolts trending right through head wall to shared anchor with 'Hyperspace Bypass'.

FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 17 Oct 2015

Mixed trad 20m, 4
22 Hyperspace Bypass

Up short corner 2m right of 'Vogon Destructor Fleet' to bolts, then up right line of bolts in head wall, finishing left to shared anchor with VDF.

Mixed trad 20m, 4
22 Hyperspace

Shallow corner then R through bulges.

Start at bushes R of 'Asteroids'.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Rod Young, 1981

Trad 20m
Letting Go (variant)

The orange flake start, bolted by peter stebbins. Doubtful it's been done.

Mixed tradProject 20m, 1
26 Letting Go

The others noodled around for a few days cleaning up the easy stuff, then Moorhead produced this! Sustained, with a strenuous bouldery crux. In fact, two bouldery strenuous cruxes.

Start at short black flake 10m R of 'Hyperspace'. Flake to grey coloured RB, L to pockets (#4 friend), then R up flake to tough finish.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

Mixed trad 15m, 1
25 Failing New Romantic

The original start climbed a tree, which has since fallen down. Following this you needed to batman to a the bolt and start at the flake. An independent right hand start which goes free from the ground was later bolted and climbed.

Start at the next flake R of 'Letting Go'. Climb the edges up the face to the R, then layback with difficulty up weakness past another bolt. Originally given 24 with a rumour it was hard for the grade.

FA: Steve Howden, Chris Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1982

FFA: Kevin Lindorff & Hywel Rowlands, 2018

Mixed trad 15m, 2
28 Slime Time

Originally 26 in the best of Law sandbagging tradition. Quite good, and not particularly slimy. Reachy though, looks way harder below about 6' reach.

Start R of 'Failing New Romantic'. 2 bolts up the seam, step L, then finish past a couple of fixed wires.

FA: Mike Law & Paul Hoskins, 1982

Mixed trad 15m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area The Thimble
16 Yakshini

The line just L of the arete.

Start on the black back wall of The 'Thimble' which faces 'Comic Strip Wall', 1m L of the arete.

FA: Hanut Singh-Dodd, Kasia Kazimierczak & Martin Lama, 1992

Trad 11m
19 The Last In Line

The arete.

Start just R of 'Yakshini'.

FA: Martin Lama & Hanut Singh-Dodd, 1992

Trad 11m
16 Nothing Too Serious

Short corner then R and up.

Start 1m R of 'The Last In Line'.

FA: Martin Lama & Hanut Singh-Dodd, 1992

Trad 10m
24 R Stabbur

Beware loose block. Adequacy of pro is unknown. Join 'Nothing Too Serious' at the top.

Start 3m R of NTS, just L of tree.

FA: Patrik Alsebv, 1995

Trad 12m
18 Thimble

The crack.

Start beneath the R side of the front face.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1977

Trad 9m
22 Pinpricks Of Blood

Long moves between good holds. Start direct. Size 3 Camalot handy. Finish right onto the arete.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Paul Deacon, 2009

Trad 10m
23 Wingspan

Start on arête up and left past bolt up to break 3cam then straight up to top of head wall small wires, then finishing out right on arête and up to high anchor

Set: muki woods, 25 Jul 2014

FFA: muki woods, 25 Jul 2014

FA: muki woods, 25 Jul 2014

Mixed trad 10m, 1
24 Drowsy Drivers Die

The arete.

Start 2m R of 'Thimble'.

FA: Roland Foster & James Anderson, 1989

Mixed trad 9m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall
26 Fitzroy Street

Wall 5 metres left of 'Crucifixion'. Hopelessly contrived. You can sort of make an OK 21 out of it by zigzagging left and right.

FA: Martin Grullich, 1986

Mixed trad 12m, 4
16 Crucifixion

Grunt your way up the offwidth crack on the wall around left from 'The Rack'.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Alec Campbell & Bruce Osborne, 1966

Trad 12m
22 Blasphemy

Start at the arete just L of 'Christian Crack'. Up the corner on the arete, trend right past FH, before landing on the ledge. From here you work your way back right, and the theory is that you finish up the arete, but inevitably the holds lead you further right, such that it feels contrived to avoid finishing up 'Christian Crack'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979

Mixed trad 15m, 1
20 Christian Crack

Excellent sustained climbing up the line with great pro. A borderline classic. There are two striking cracks on the wall on the left side of Colosseum Wall - this is the left one.

Ann Pauligk's 1977 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966

FFA: Joe Friend, 1974

Trad 13m

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

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