Routes in Oceania for selected grade

Out through big roof in the main cave. Downgraded to 24 in recent guide.

Start: Beneath L side of Melville's Cave. Then the thin wall above.

Left-hand finish to Sagittarian (Grade could be suspect ).

Up weakness 8m right of 'Steps Ahead' to first bolt. Go slightly right to second bolt and hard moves lead to pin. Finish up right.

From the finish of 'Problematic', traverse L across the top of the wall under small roof-line with a piton, 2 BRs (take brackets), then over rooflet and left past a slung knob for pro.

Start: as for 'Problematic'.

Beware loose block. Adequacy of pro is unknown. Join 'Nothing Too Serious' at the top.

Start 3m R of NTS, just L of tree.

The arete.

Start 2m R of 'Thimble'.

Arete with poor pro.

Start 3m R of 'Petronius'

Bridge, then into seam with 1 bolt and 1 piton. Double rings on ledge.

Start: Start on the R wall of the gully L of 'Light Fingered'.

The middle of the buttress, no wimping off the direct line.

Start: Start R of CLC.

Flakes to BR then R and up.

Start: Start 10m R of 'Feel It Closing In'.

This pair's additions at 'Werribee Gorge' see a lot more love than these obscure numbers.

Start: Start 10m L up the gully from IaLD.

The blank wall right of 'Catcher' starting 3 or 4 metres right of that climb. 1 carrot and 1 FH. A hold may have broken and may be more like 27 now.

Originally supposed to stick-place a #2 hex to protect the monster jump-start. As usual there is more than one level of shade here. Originally the nut was placed and then used for aid to place a backup. Finally Mikl has put in a sensible bolt.

Start: Start as for TOR.

Louise's description is worth repeating in full! "Why pay a shrink to talk about your problems when you can do a new route and tell the whole world for free?"

Start: Start in the cave L of CC.

The bolts flex alarmingly and need to be replaced.

Great second pitch for 'Astral Plane' or just approach from the hole leading to the ledge of 'Pilot Error'.

Start: Start atop 'Astral Plane'.

Bridge to gain short crack, bolt, then right and up, bolt and finish on a larger crack at top. Has had a rap anchor added.

Start: Start high in the gully on the right hand or main wall looking into the gully, at a stone step towards the back.

Amazing how many people commandeer the blunt end on a bold route! Start R of C roughly in the middle of the wall.

Thin steep face then traverse left to arete. Up arete (#2 BD cam) to lower-off.

Start: Just left of 'Orestes'.

Very unbalanced in grade with a hard start. The top wall could be a nice direct finish for 'Surface To Air'. Was a bit controversial in its day for no good reason other than who put it up.

1. 15m (24) Boulder past bolt and up to join Surface to Air. Belay to protect the second.

2. 20m (20) Continue up Surface to Air butthen take the wall up right into a groove and on to the jugs.

An exciting face climb that is very sustained. Start as for WoI, and move left at the FH. Up past 2nd FH then back R to a 3rd FH then loweroffs (30m).

Start up inside the Agamemnon chimney, 1m L of a thin crack on the R (NW) wall. Tough move at BR then up L to short crack.

Not as good as it looks unfortunately, and the bolts are hard to clip. Start a few metres R of E, and 1m L of T.

Up Telemachus's crack then straight up the arete above to stance. Step L below red patch and straight up the middle of the buttress to the top. Good gear at crux then run-out on easier ground.

Polished face, with 1 BR which is scary to clip, and a scary finish.

Start: Start 2m R of SDV.

Up fragile looking flakes to join Iron Void. Gear may be suspect.

Start: Start 8m R of 'Tuby Tuba'.

BR, then bold to overhang and 2nd BR. Go 4m up L then straight up. The direct finish goes slightly R from 2nd BR to 3rd BR.

Start: Start in gully L of F.

Not well protected, a serious lead. Up Private Detective to seam (about 4m), diagonally left across face and up just right of arete.

Follow the seams straight up from the start of 'Cadenza' and finish up that climb Take care as gear is hard to see and place.

Start at the left side of the Red Wall. Bridge up gully (G String) to clip bolt. Up blunt arete past another bolt to join Wyrd, up corner and flake. L at bolt to jugs, up thinly past another (bolt, not jug) to rings.

Start 3m right of Mind Games.The seam, then join the finish of 'Beautiful Loser'.

First 24 at Araps but otherwise a bit underwhelming.

Start just R of Hyaena. Straight up then follow the R-leading diagonal.

Start beneath the appealing finger crack in the orange wall.

Saunter on up.

Start beneath the proud steep buttress forming the highest part of Wailing Wall.

Slightly daunting start leading into the crack, then pump up the power to reach left into the next crack weakness. Up this to large pockets, then finish up and left.

Start beneath the RH crack.

Up the RH groove to it's finish, go up R to a mantle, then the face and the L-most corner.

The flared handcrack.

Start: Start 4m L of DF.

The vague line, needing small wires. Go R to arete at about half height, after which it eases substantially.

Start: Start 1m R of DF.

Start R of Megalomaniac. Up unprotected blank wall (23) to join Power Crazy for 3m, then R on poor slopes to join a line through the bulge.

Start R of Vacancy. Bouldery blankness into vegetated crack.

Up JC to it's top roof, then traverse R past old manky fixed gear, cams, and a runout, to join Cecilia. It's worse to second than to lead. Start as for JC.

Start 3m R of Johns Corner at RB, face climb past two fixed hangers to reach the underclings at the roof, past another fixed hanger in the steepness. Lower off.

Really very good link up. Intransience's initial steep moves to a rest, then L and up as for Blind Ambition, to the chains.

(There is an alternative L finish from the last big horizontal up an obvious flake between the described finish and Cecilia, however despite the climbing being easier, gear is non-existent).

Boulder into Revolution Rock using evil pockets.

Further right along the ledge are two prominent chalked lines easily identified by their limestone-like appearance of large pockets and underclings. This route starts 1m left of On High and climbs less travelled territory to shallow corner. Joins On High near the top.

Start 5m R of NH where the wall bulges considerably. Boulder up past 2 bolts and some trad placements.

3m right of Blast Off and 5m left of black rock. Stick clip runner to start, then boulder into crack above.

A flawed route with no need for the chipped holds. Back to the front (main) wall. Up Armpit then access diagonal rampline rightwards past a bolt. Cross Reaper and finish up headwall just right of arete. No reliable gear before the bolt (needs replacing) and route is quite runout on the headwall.

From the 1st belay of Reaper, drop down then traverse R across Incest to the first ledge of Wild Oats.

Start as for Wild Oats. (... although there is a lonely FH 2m L of Red Parrot. Not clear if this is the start of Fine Arts, or whether it starts further L as for Wild Oats? Clarification welcome.).

1. 30m (21) Climb directly to the ledge from the RH start, not much pro.

2. 15m (23) Traverse L a few metres then up to R-curving flake which leads to ledge.

3. 20m (23) Walk R then climb the steep East face of the buttress, just L of the arete.

Back wall. Approach via Skyline Walls, Dreadnought Gully or Josie's Climb. Very steep start past bolt then rightwards along lip of roof (BRs) to a tricky exit (cam or small wire).

Climb the little crack which starts on the lip of the roof. Gain it from the left. The fixed wire and slings at the start of the crack are long gone and it is probably quite bold to place your own on the lead.

Start: Start on the west face (the face looking up Central Gully).

BR to flake (sling it). L to groove and up it to small roof. The original (23) wimped out here by following jugs R around arete. The first direct finish (24) increased quality and boldness by staying just L of the 'Los Endos' arete. The second direct finish (24, shown in the topo) is even better and maybe not as bold.

Start: Start at end of ledge 10m R of RLtW.

The short crack leading to the end of LF's initial traverse. Place a wire with a stick before starting.

Start: Start 2m R of LEDS.

Was very bold until the death flake departed and the retrobolts arrived.

Start: Start 4m R of LFDS.

Climb a little tree to gain a jug with a fixed wire. Now head R and over a bulge.

Start: Start 1.5m R of GSTQ.

Very bouldery past 2 BRs, then L to flake.

Start: This route is actually located on the top section of 'Preludes Wall', but is included in this section as it is approached from above if done separately (but it's just as easy to approach it by climbing 'Subliminal Cut' on 'Preludes' Wall). Anyway, from the base of Wind Wall, head SW towards the top of 'Reaper Buttress', to find the top of a hanging gully. Scramble down the gully to find the bolts.

High up on the Dreadnought Buttress. Approach as for Short Time. Start at the gully 1.5m right of an arete and left of Short Time. Take the overhang, up to small roof, BR, then L to arete. Over bulge, then up until you find a bollard good enough to rap off.

This route used to have a cairn of boulders - from which you would lean across the Dreadnought Gully void to reach the opposite wall - but they're no longer there (seeing that they would be built on a downward sloping ledge, that's not too surprising, and it's probably not a great OH&S practice either). Apparently this route used to have a fixed wire too. Even with those things in place, it would probably still be a Moorhead sandbag.

Once you're past the bouldery start, the difficulties soon ease.

Start at the back of Dreadnought Gully, 1m L of a 'D' chipped in the rock.

1. 12m (24) Launch up steep crack weakness 2m R of HaL to DRB.

2. 16m (23) Continue up marbled bulging crack above. This pitch often seeps but is still climbable.

3. 20m (-) The corner to the top is part of the original route but not really worth doing. If you do, you might need to fashion some sort of abseil to get off the top.

I nearly called this "Dreadnought Variant Left Hand Direct Variant Start". Start up Dreadnought and continue up the right seam to the top out of Dreadnought Variant.

Start 1m L of M. Bouldery start to bolt, then the groove.

Veer up R from the corner and easily over small roof. Tough moves to a rest on the R, then out the main roof being wary of a captive loose block. Rap off as for Sandpiper.

Start as for Saracen.

Start up high in Major Mitchell Gully, above the massive boulder, and opposite Brontosaurus (described under Dunes Buttress). May in fact be right up at the top of the gully on a small block when the gully is very narrow and further up than Brontosaurus (on opposite wall, but not directly opposite.) From the bottom left of the small wall, step up R then up the left hand line.

Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to thrutch leftwards up the long diagonal, starting with a tricky traverse in from the L, and finishing rather strenuously. Start towards the uphill end of the wall, although quite a way down from the massive boulder which blocks the gully.

Climb boldly to first bolt then traverse left to second bolt. Employ some inventive footwork to reach the alcove, a good rest and a nest of gear. Take a breath then move left and motor up on slopers to the top. Start as for Feral Chicken.

Very good climbing. Choose either crack to start (both tough), then follow the thin diagonal line with good gear up to and past an old piton (pin can be backed up with modern small cams and isn't really needed any more). Start in the middle of the buttress L of Morfydd.

Close to Morfydd at times, but still a very appealing wall. Start 3m L of Morfydd.

Note: the top bolt should be backed up; easy to do in the horizontal just below.

Start in the gully right of Bygone, below the crack near arete. Looks rather serious.

Start as for Directathal. Then what? (Maybe it takes the middle of the bulge then the face R of the arete, staying between Directathal and Meanderthal?)

Straight up with terrible pro. Toproping recommended.

This looks like it has 2 or 3 bolts now?

Start: In the middle of the grey wall L of O-W.

Up the middle of the face between K and DA.

Start: Start just R of K.

Originally given 24 and one bolt - would have been very bold getting to the bolt. There are two ways to do it, some people find it easier to climb left of the bolts.

Retrobolted by the first ascentionist.

Start: Start as for 'Placements'.

Original climbed bolt free but now it is possible to clip 2 of the bolts of Ergonomics.

Start as for Strolling then up and right from loose block past the broken remnants of an old PR (there's a good sneaky wire instead or clip bolt). Now pull over the bulge (again try to ignore the bolt) and trend L up the face to join the finish of Strolling.

Protection is adequate even without the bolts.

Be very careful of the massive every-so-slightly-loose block down low - you'll need to pull on it, but do not put gear behind it.

Climbable even in the eponymous weather...one of the driest routes at Araps! Start as for 'Mantis' and climb it for about 6m. Now step L onto the steep orange left wall and up this over the bulge (grade 23 climbing with dicky gear) to the break (the traverse on Mandible). Continue up Mandible or Preying.

Up to crappy old FH then trend L into SB.

Start: Start 2m R of SB.

Full traverse left to right including golden streak face (crux)

Old classic previously unrecorded.

Sit start for Three Moves to Glory. Not materially harder, but better

Start on the flat jug on the arete, traverse rightwards into the start of the V3. Finish up the V3.

Steep groove, mossy top

This high face has a bolt on top. Start just L of tree and go up and right. Other high problems exist on this wall

Sit start on large flat edge, climb up and left of on good small edges and slopers to topout

Sit start at the back of the cave, and head straight up and out.

From the R side of the cave follow jugs out to the lip then a hard move to a break and straight up to rap anchor. There is good gear where you need it if you can stop to place it.

Note: The Rap Anchor in basically no existent and needs a new one!

Start: Start just R of DtL.

Start in the middle of the east face of the pinnacle (which looks over Ali's and Fang Buttress). Tough crack R of arete to small roof at 4m. There's a RB on the lip and another up higher, it's wise to stick-clip the first.

Start 4m L of Let Me Cry. From the ground climb up to thin R leaning and L facing flake and continue up to ledge. from this join groove which is shared with Shalimar and finish up left. Spaced wires.

Start 3m R of DD. Short crack, pocket, go left, up.

Bolt/s and roof L of Abdul.

From the start of SDS do a committing traverse out R then up to fixed wire. Now R and up arete.

A straighter version of pitch 1 but you'll probably still want double ropes.

Start: Start as for 'Fall Out'.

Pitch 1 of this route can be climbed in isolation as there is a rap anchor at the first belay.

Start: Start as for 'Fall Out'.

1. 25m (23) Through the gauno roof as for 'Fall Out', then slime your way R into the next corner. R around roof then up.

2. 30m (24) Move L to gain a R-leaning flake with difficulty. Step L to next flake and up to stance on arete.

3. 20m (-) Easily up to big ledge.

4. 20m (21) Straight up the arete, R of 'Fall Out' p4.